It’s not so long ago that the mere idea of grape tannin and skin-derived colour – let alone a hazy appearance – in white wine would have winemaking lecturers and show judges frothing at the mouth in horror. Noticeable grip in white wine was seen as a fault, a failure of process. Today, the script has had a new chapter added, with a big payoff in terms of texture and flavour complexity. From wines with the faintest of complexing grip to those that are made like red wines with ample chew and deep colour, and everything in between, are now an accepted part of the wine landscape. Anita Goode (Wangolina), Sven Joschke (Sven Joschke Wines), Matt Purbrick and Leigh Ritchie (Minimum), Raquel Jones (Weathercraft), Marcus Radny (Gonzo Vino), Chad Connolly (White Gate Wine Co.), James Scarcebrook (Vino Intrepido), Peta Kotz (Sabi Wabi), Sam Renzaglia (di Renzo), Richard Burch and Nic Bowen (Mon Tout) are all pursuing textural styles.