Mataro is supposed to be gruff. Aglianico is supposed to be brooding. Orange muscat is supposed to be sweet. Sparkling is supposed to be frivolous. Nobody told this month’s CURATED wines. A floral, elegant mataro from 80-year-old vines, a light and joyful aglianico, a dry orange muscat named after a Muppet, a sparkling wine with a 20-year-old solera in the blend, and more.
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