Bridget Mac’s choice to make a pét-nat in 2023 due to the cool vintage and intense acidity also saw her opt for a little more balancing residual sugar in her still riesling than her debut vintage (that was from Victoria, though), but it’s easily swallowed by that acid drive. From a cool vintage and a cool region, this is thrilling stuff, scented with lime, tart grapefruit and wet stone. The small amount of unfermented grape sugar is electrified by the acidity, gifting weight and texture while drying out through the considerably long finish.
This sits at 10.5% alcohol with about 17 grams of sugar per litre, but that sugar is perfectly balanced by the intensity of the acid. That kick of sugar also transforms the nose, with the rapier citrus notes of the pét-nat accompanied with elements of pink grapefruit pith, green apple, makrut lime zest, brine and wet stone. There’s an understandable generosity to the front palate, but that’s mustered into a drilling line with the aforementioned crispness.
Themes of this wine
Riesling is one of the world’s most versatile grapes, capable of making styles from aridly dry to lusciously sweet, plus everything in between, and with a transparency that reflects where it was grown like few – if any – other grapes. Hailing from Germany, it’s equally embedded in France and Austria, while the style made famous in the Clare Valley that once defined Australian versions has now been joined by a multitude of expressions, and from right across the country.
Mount Gambier is a cool region on South Australia’s south-east coast. It’s part of the Limestone Coast Zone, which also encompasses the wine regions of Mount Benson, Robe, Coonawarra, Wrattonbully and Padthaway. Predictably, limestone is a major geological feature of Mount Gambier, which sits on the gentle slopes of a dormant volcano. With breezes from the Southern Ocean a major feature, the temperate maritime climate is suited to white varieties and cool climate reds.