Made by Phil Lehmann from the impeccable Eden Hall Vineyard (2021’s Vineyard of the Year), this is a stunningly individual wine, an ode to a special block within a special site. A riot of citrus, apple and jasmine, the wine is marked by its powerful intensity allied with poise, and generous texture paired with laser-like acidity, the extremes working in perfect concord.
A selection from the best block of the season, this was made entirely from Block 7, a consistent top-performing parcel. The nose is intense yet fine, with lifted notes of lemon leaves, lime pith, jasmine and green apple, leading to a palate of both generosity and drive. The flavours hit powerfully, cresting on a wave of texture, with ample acid cutting a path through a long finish. There’s a classic Australian riesling thread here, but the concentration of flavour and sheer intensity mark it as highly individual.
Themes of this wine
Riesling is one of the world’s most versatile grapes, capable of making styles from aridly dry to lusciously sweet, plus everything in between, and with a transparency that reflects where it was grown like few – if any – other grapes. Hailing from Germany, it’s equally embedded in France and Austria, while the style made famous in the Clare Valley that once defined Australian versions has now been joined by a multitude of expressions, and from right across the country.
Eden Valley is the higher altitude section of the Barossa zone, nestling up against the Adelaide Hills and being meaningful cooler than its neighbour, the Barossa Valley. Riesling and shiraz are the key varieties, both typically being cast in an elegant light, with shiraz fragrant and lifted, though still with plenty of power, while riesling is characterised by race and verve.