Lucy Kendall and Alysha Moscatt’s Allevare (Sicilian dialect for to grow and share) is built around ideas of sustainability, community and social consciousness (they co-founded Joans of Marc to help promote diversity in the wine game). Working in various regions, their home base is Gippsland, where this waxy, savoury expression of chardonnay hails from. Classic stone fruit chimes in, but the feel is Old World, with an appealing grip complementing the fine acidity.
There’s an Old World feel to this, with a nose that is less fruity and more savoury, with waxy, mealy and lightly honeyed notes sitting atop gentle white peach and citrus characters. That savoury feel is carried through on the palate, with a fresh drive of yellow-skinned citrus flavour carrying through a palate built on vibrant acidity, lightly upholstered with leesy texture and complexed with a moreishly chewy grip.
Themes of this wine
With an explosion of interest over the last few decades, chardonnay is now the world’s most planted white grape. With its ability to grow in varied conditions and make everything from sparkling wine, to lean and mineral whites, to full-bodied textural expressions, it is perhaps no surprise to see Burgundy’s key white grape become so dominant.
A vast region, Gippsland stretches from Westernport Bay right across eastern Victoria to the New South Wales border. And although many of the wineries are on the western end of the GI, with a concentration in the unofficial subzone of South Gippsland, the region still has a complex array of macroclimates and geological variations. Even with that variability, it’s safe to say that pinot noir and chardonnay are the regional strengths, with generally cool conditions and good rainfall consistent themes.