The Top Wines
![]()
2024 Good Intentions ‘Magnolia’ Gewürztraminer, Wrattonbully $35 RRP
Snook, Lucas, Rupp and Meyer all ranked this among their top six from the blind tasting, with Lucas calling it “unarguably best in show today… lungfuls of jasmine, cut mango and Turkish Delight… lavish palate… dried papaya concentration… bergamot tea phenolics… plush yet precise… pure ambrosia.” Snook described its “pale copper” colour “like the gentle glow of evening light,” with aromas of “red apple, ginseng, jasmine tea, and orange blossom,” plus “orange bitters and tonic water” on the palate, “balanced by… fine, silky tannins… powerful and composed, with a sense of movement and grace.” Rupp saw it as “a serious skin contact white… flavours of Turkish delight and pomegranate… bittersweet Italian amaro characters, grappa, and layers of complex orange… perfect companion to Middle Eastern fare – or to the classic prawn on the barbie!” Meyer admired its “very Eastern European style… lacquered wooden element unlike oak… Cognac, nutmeg, pot pourri, dried apricot, and dried cranberry… tannins… like those of an ideally extracted black tea… luxurious as fine leather, with the charm of a gruff old man.”
![]()
2023 Edenflo ‘Quincy J’, Eden Valley $38 RRP
Chosen in the top six by Kimonides, Ness, Lucas, Becker and Meyer during the blind tasting, this wine stood out for its complexity, character and length. Kimonides was drawn to its “deep golden hue and slight haziness,” with “dried mountain herbs – think oregano and thyme – which made it clearly stand out from a sea of wines displaying stone fruit and blossom.” He praised the “crushed ant acidity,” “brassy metal character” and “wonderful tannin structure” that took on “a black tea–like quality.” Ness called it “intensely aromatic – peony, walnut and jasmine robed in a little honey,” with “massive concentration on the palate… young ginger with cucumber skins, alongside crisp, fresh-cut red apples… long, very pleasant finish.” Lucas found it “a fruity, free-spirited style… brimming with brekkie juice aromatics and marmalade-tinged spice… pink grapefruit and buzzy pineapple granita… subtle savoury leanings… brazen, barefoot charm… total nectar.” Becker noted a “confected honey nose – like apricot jam and marmalade on toast, with a fresh glass of Fanta… candles and beeswax… chalky and talc-y palate… great flow and energy… ripper!” Meyer called it “very punchy… marmalade, orange peel, papaya, dried white flowers, a slight cheese rind element,” with “mouth-drying tannins… drinkability very high for a richer, more oxidative style… I implore you to pursue this wine!”
![]()
2023 Good Intentions ‘Relatively White’ Sauvignon Blanc, Mount Gambier $35 RRP
Selected in the top six by McCartthy, Ness and Becker during the blind tasting, this wine had plenty of intrigue and personality. Ness found a “fascinating aroma of Normandy cider: bruised and slightly funky, with a hint of sea salt,” while the palate was “fresh and focussed, coming in waves – beautiful bruised orchard fruit from apple to Nashi pear… fresh lime juice and crushed coriander seed… refreshing [and] intriguing.” Becker described “burnt lemons and beeswax on the nose, with some orange blossom and chamomile tea… a nice peach skin note… a little bit of gasoline… good acid line with talc-like phenolics… burnt toast on the palate and lanolin… could get stuck into it on a hot day, or sip it alongside shared plates at a restaurant.” McCarthy saw “gold colour … leads with honeysuckle and pink peppercorn top notes, followed by a little hint of Moroccan preserved lemon … limestone minerality picks up where the soft, chalky tannins leave off … Power and weight on the palate, à la Damijan Podversic.
”
![]()
2025 J. P. Trijsburg Pinot Gris/Riesling/Gewürztraminer, Bendigo $30 RRP
Becker and Rupp both included this in their top six from the blind tasting. Becker enjoyed its “fresh and clean notes of vibrant white peach, strawberries and red apple skin… a dead ringer for strawberries and cream… surprisingly phenolic and textural… red apples, lychee, and grapefruit pith… soft acidity.” Rupp called it “fun – but so precise… pure and expressive strawberry jam… fresh guava and zesty grapefruit… lots of ripeness… extremely focused and precise… great drive on the palate… summer in a glass, for any occasion.”
![]()
2025 Ravensworth Pinot Gris, Canberra $32 RRP
Chosen by Meyer, Lucas and Becker in their top six, this wine won over the panel with both its playful and savoury elements. Meyer declared, “Goodness me, this is a good time… salted watermelon, strawberry fruit leather, fresh grapefruit juice… bright sherbet-y acidity, delightful tension… so fun and invigorating. Hell yeah – give me a bucket and a straw!” Lucas found it “a wilder style… preserved ginger and tangy tsukemono pickles… salt-dipped peaches and orange blossom tea… fine, gauzy grip and faintly saline undertow… interest and satisfaction in equal measure.” Becker noted “fresh-cut cantaloupe and watermelon… bubblegum and Juicy Fruit gum note… a little bit of wax and salinity… juicy watermelon, mandarin peel and grapefruit pith… fine chalky phenolics… cleansing acid.”
![]()
2023 Momento Mori ‘Staring at the Sun’, Heathcote $44 RRP
Kimonides included this in his top six from the blind tasting, describing the colour as “a bright, almost fluorescent gold – hazy, looking clearly unfined and unfiltered.” On the nose, “a spectrum of lemon characteristics: Meyer lemon, lemon curd, and lemon verbena, all balanced with fresh green herbs and displaying what I see as granitic white soil minerality.” He found the palate had “wonderful acidity, filling the mid-palate and finishing with a magnificent length,” with “a lovely wild malolactic conversion… as a fresh potted yoghurt flavour and texture.”
![]()
2024 J. P. Trijsburg ‘Skinzy’ Pinot Gris, Bendigo $30 RRP
Snook and Meyer both ranked this playful pink in their top six from the blind tasting. Snook described “a cheerful light pink-red shade… notes of redcurrant, red apple, and rhubarb… cherry cola and a touch of hibiscus… cocktail cherry note… juicy, lively, and easy to enjoy… vibrant, enticing, and slightly flirtatious.” Meyer found it “vibrant dark pink… ruby grapefruit and pink lemonade… joyous, spritzy acid line… yummy and zippy – pure pink refreshment.”
![]()
2023 Little Brunswick Wine Co. ‘All Seagulls, No Chips’ Greco, Heathcote $38 RRP
Chosen in their top six from the blind tasting by Ness and Rupp, this wine had Ness saying it “tastes like someone made a wine out of Sunnyboy ice blocks – and there are certainly no complaints here.” She noted dried basil and orange oil on the nose, leading to “a wonderfully delineated, nuanced palate of underripe apricots, white strawberries, mandarin peel, and fresh coriander.” For Rupp, “this wine does not hold back – it jumps straight out of the glass with lifted rose petals, fresh white peaches, dried orange and cherry blossoms.” On the palate, “it elegantly dances… with finely structured tannins, yet shows a ripeness and weight that leaves you wanting more. This wine is pure fun in a glass – meant to be enjoyed in the moment, yet refined enough to linger through a deep conversation with a friend … if you can make the bottle last that long!”
![]()
2024 Avani ‘Amrit’ Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula $45 RRP
Meyer selected this for his top six, noting its “unique shade … spice-laden, ripe pinot gris: bergamot, Earl Grey tea, twiggy herbs … sweet paprika spice note… blood orange, ruby grapefruit, and fleshy stone fruit sphere… begging for some South Asian and South-East Asian cuisine.”
![]()
2024 Box Grove Vineyard Pinot Gris, Nagambie Lakes $35 RRP
Included in Rupp’s top six, this wine impressed with its balance and drive. “Layers of orange fruit and sweet, warming spice… grapefruit character… zesty and pithy… great drive and impressive length… playful in energy, yet grounded in structure… balanced, expressive, and just plain delicious.”
![]()
2024 David Hook Vermentino, Central Ranges $28 RRP
Selected by Ness in his top six from the blind tasting, this wine’s nose showed “vibrant and expressive notes of crushed rock and pub lime cordial.” Ness described the palate as “deeply concentrated and so harmonious here – Pine-Lime Splice, tinned yellow peaches, fresh lime zest.” She found “a hint of phenolics from skin contact and refreshing acidity” that gave it “a gorgeous, unforgettable shape.”
![]()
2024 Poppelvej ‘Rå’ Greco, McLaren Vale $36 RRP
Selected in the top six by Becker during the blind tasting, he described this as “a banger! Gasoline, heaps of dried mandarin peel and apricots, orange liqueur and marmalade… lavender, pot pourri, dandelions, dried ginger and cloves… salty and grippy phenolics… lots to get your teeth stuck into… Juicy Fruit chewing gum… brilliant.”
![]()
2025 Smallfry ‘Gewürzbomb’, Barossa Valley $35 RRP
Selected in the top six by McCarthy during the blind tasting, who called it “Edgy, exciting, nervy. Leads with lychee and rosewater on the nose. Underneath there’s preserved lime zest, yellow grapefruit zest and pith, and a whiff of earthy, stewed apricot jam. Superb fine phenolic mouthfeel – so fine! Bright and driving acidity, with impressive length.”
![]()
2023 Logan Wines ‘Clementine’ Pinot Gris, Orange $26 RRP
Lucas ranked this among his top six from the blind tasting, calling it “a madly fragrant thing with soaring, spice-drenched aromatics and swells of frangipani, burnt orange and beeswax.” He said the aromatics “beckon you towards a palate soused with oozy squished peach and tangerine peel bitters, fringed by a soft, gingery warmth.” For him, it was “almost molten in texture, but any fleshy largesse here is deftly tempered with cohesion and clarity… a brilliant iteration of skin-contact white, with appeal for both laypersons and cognoscenti alike.”
![]()
2022 Little Brunswick Wine Co. ‘The Valley Is Empty, but Echoes’ Pinot Gris, Macedon $38 RRP
Selected in the top six by McCarthy during the blind tasting, who said, “Edgy, yet everything in balance! Coppery colour – very much looks like a ramato-style wine. Acacia flower, black pepper, blood orange zest, sour morello cherry and clingstone peach on the nose, alongside something Campari-like and bitter. Driving acidity, powdery yet firm tannins, serious depth of flavour and length. Simply delicious.”
![]()
2022 Ravensworth ‘Seven Months’, Canberra $45 RRP
Kimonides placed this in his top six from the blind tasting, finding “a deep amber colour, brilliant and clear” with “a spectrum of stone fruit, particularly ripe apricots and nectarines, balanced with a rigid gunmetal note… softened by some sugared almond character.” He said the palate had “acidity and tannins in balanced measure, filling the mid-palate and finishing extraordinarily long,” with oak and oxidative handling “brilliantly” managed, giving “a baked peach tart character, juxtaposed with a white rock minerality on the finish.”
![]()
2024 Charlish & Co. Viognier, McLaren Vale $30 RRP
Snook ranked this in her top six from the blind tasting, describing it as “pale straw yellow, glowing like sunlit hay in late summer.” The nose was “golden and generous: like biting into a ripe nectarine or apricot and feeling the gentle fuzz of their skins… creamy warmth beneath… touched by vanilla and dried straw.” On the palate, “plush and layered, with an apricot yoghurt and soft stone fruit feel, wrapped up in a silken texture… never heavy, just deeply satisfying. The finish lingers… long after the last sip, you’re still wondering, ‘Am I drinking Condrieu?’ Delicious, expressive, and sure of itself – a wine that hums with quiet opulence.”
![]()
2024 Pizzini ‘Nove’ Pinot Grigio, King Valley $28 RRP
Chosen in their top six from the blind tasting by Lucas and Kimonides, Lucas found “whispers of saffron and curry leaf fade to gentle, struck-match reduction.” He described it as “gently bronzed in complexion – aglow with poached quince and rockmelon, fringed with watercolour shades of musk, and all dappled with docile, peach-tea phenolics… lovely restraint and delicacy here, with a subtle piquancy and softly pitched acidity. Utterly charming.” Kimonides noted it was “deep orange, bordering on a pale red… The nose evokes memories of rainfall on hot bitumen after a summer’s day with its white-stone minerality, whilst saline and fraise de bois strawberries dance together.” On the palate, “acidity… shines liked polished stone, held up on the shoulders of phenolic tannins,” with balance from “a wild malolactic conversion character of clotted cream,” and “a finish … long, with a kirschwasser cherry note.”
![]()
2023 MDI Grillo, Murray-Darling $29 RRP
Kimonides had this in his top six from the blind tasting, describing “a bright, light golden colour and a slight haze.” On the nose, he found “freshly fried doughnuts and tangy clingstone peaches, all bound together with a lovely honeysuckle white floral character.” The palate brought “a bitingly satisfying acidity, balanced with a curd-like wild malolactic conversion character that gives generosity… and a long finish of honeyed nuts.”
![]()
2024 Momento Mori ‘A Fistful of Flowers’, Heathcote $36 RRP
Snook placed this in her top six from the blind tasting, noting “aromas of salted pineapple… ripe but restrained,” layered with “the savoury lift of fresh thyme and the citrusy perfume of lemon verbena – there’s something herbal, grounded, and quietly complex beneath the fruit.” The palate mirrored the nose “with clarity: juicy pineapple, lemon oil, and a gentle herbal thread that runs all the way through.” She found “bright and well-pitched” acidity giving “structure and length without pulling too tight,” finishing with “a fine, lingering line of fruit, herb, and mineral in quiet conversation… a wine that balances vibrancy with depth.”
![]()
2024 Scion ‘Super V’ Viognier, Rutherglen $36 RRP
Selected in the top six by McCarthy during the blind tasting, who said, “Love the aromatics – richness and power, with a pithy citrus core. Shows stewed apricot, apricot kernel, honeysuckle and ginger powder on the nose. Vibrant acidity, and a slight oiliness on the palate alongside the expected tannic grip, which provides a pithy hint of lemony bitterness.”
![]()
2022 Clo ‘Amber’ Pinot Grigio, Tumbarumba $38 RRP
Kimonides picked this in his top six from the blind tasting, calling it “an intoxicating bright orange colour… with a pretty haze.” The nose carried “well-worn leather, forrest truffles, and Black Russian tea… lifted with an animalistic, sexy barnyard quality.” On the palate, “acidity… raises the stakes with a grippy tannin structure,” showing “bruised apricots and freshly-baked mushroom tart, alongside a long, phenolic finish of cinnamon and allspice.”
![]()
2022 Logan Wines ‘Clementine de la Mer’, Orange $26 RRP
Ness included this in his top six from the blind tasting, finding the nose “of slightly underripe pineapple, pithy lime, and green peppercorn … intoxicating.” On the palate, “crisp, peppered Fuji apples and a notion of freshly-diced green capsicum. A triumphant flavour combination!”
![]()
2022 Unico Zelo ‘Esoterico’, Riverland & Clare Valley $25 RRP
Becker ranked this among his top six from the blind tasting, calling it “pretty cool.” He described “grilled pistachio nuts and orange marmalade over toasted sourdough,” with “a nice bit of salinity that adds interest to the dried apricot nose.” On the palate, “beeswax and candle wax… with some nice creaminess and soft acidity that flows throughout. Textural and interesting.”
![]()
2023 Good Intentions Pinot Gris, Mount Gambier $35 RRP
Snook also ranked this in her top six from the blind tasting, describing “a luminous hue somewhere between copper and pale straw – like dried summer grass catching the last light.” The lifted, intriguing nose held “ginseng and ginger root, fresh-cut daisy, and a whisper of dried hay,” with red apple and yellow plum bringing “a juicy brightness, softened by a gentle warmth.” On the palate, it struck “with precision: a vivid hit of acidity… ginger and orchard fruit linger, underlined by a light oxidative edge that adds texture and complexity without overwhelming the frame… alive, layered, and full of personality – a wine that keeps you guessing, then keeps you coming back.”
![]()
2024 Ricca Terra ‘High Noon’, Riverland $30 RRP
Rupp had this in his top six from the blind tasting, saying the nose “instantly captivates, with expressive aromas of freshly cut grass, sweet passionfruit, zesty lemon, orange peel, crushed gooseberries, and hints of baking spices.” He found the mouthfeel and texture “immaculately balanced, with fresh acidity and structure from the fine tannins – making every sip as relaxing and delightful as lounging in a hammock on a warm spring day.”
![]()
2024–25 Smallfry ‘Tangerine Dream 10th Anniversary’, Barossa Valley $36 RRP
Selected as a top-six wine by McCarthy, who said, “Beautiful intense fruit leaps out of the glass – arresting. Citrusy with a savoury edge – orange marmalade, candied cedro peel, grilled lemon halves, a dusting of caraway and cumin spice, maybe a hint of curry leaf. Not super-bright, and acidity is not the driving force, but tannins, phenolics, and minerality here provide freshness. Earthy bass notes and a gentle feel on the palate. Well-managed, fine phenolic structure.”
![]()
2021 Torch Bearer ‘Skinsy’ Chardonnay, Tasmania $45 RRP
Selected by McCarthy as one of the top six of the tasting. “Ripe yellow nectarine stone fruit character on the nose, showing some attractive development. Well-handled phenolics a feature – a real statement palate, with a lick of nectarine-skin bitterness. Marzipan and Speculaas biscuits, a dusting of white pepper and clove spice, Christmassy orange zest. Silky tannins, soft mouthfeel, weight and depth indicating some age.”
![]()
2023 Poppelvej ‘Øst’ Riesling, Adelaide Hills $35 RRP
Meyer included this in his top six from the blind tasting, calling it “a real left-of-centre wine as far as skin contact whites go – very distinct.” He noted “wild alpine herbs, wild mint, a wild grass element that verges on nettle, green stemmy herbs, lemon jam and lemon balm, almost Aesop-like in its botanical fanciness.” For him, there was “a tincture-like, almost medicinal quality… plenty of clay, wet rocks, and damp earth on the nose. Strange in all the right ways – plenty to sink your teeth into here.”
![]()
2024 Chaffey Bros. ‘Not Your Grandma’s White’, Barossa Valley $25 RRP
Lucas included this in his top six from the blind tasting, describing it as “a well-made nod to maceration as a means in the cellar, rather than an end.” Nearer to golden than amber, it was “a richly aromatic style, a-tingle with lemongrass and yuzushu.” The nose “is a fitting preamble for a palate sodden with starfruit and lime curd, in concert with a tonic water–fresh sting,” abetted by “finely pixelated phenolics… mellowed with licks of cashew and meringue.” The finish offered “hints of smoky mezcal with a subtly bitter edge.” For Lucas, “whether ‘orange’ or not, this offers high intrigue – and is undeniably delicious.”
![]()
2024 Poppelvej ‘Æventyr’ Gewürztraminer, Adelaide Hills $36 RRP
Rupp placed this among his top six from the blind tasting, noting “classic tropical pineapple and fresh mango, with a bit of lingering marzipan spice alongside lifted aromatics of makrut lime and lemongrass.” He found “freshness… but generosity as well, with lemon curd and coconut characteristics lending a depth and softness that just sits really well here.” For him, it was “incredibly balanced, with each component giving just enough character to keep everyone happy.”
![]()
2024 Poppelvej ‘Only Shallow’ Viognier, Adelaide Hills $34 RRP
Ness ranked this in his top six from the blind tasting, calling it “perhaps the most singular aroma and colour of the day’s lineup.” On the nose, he found it “enchanting… pine resin, flecks of eucalyptus, fresh slices of fennel with lemon zest and lemon oil.” The “oily, deeply phenolic palate” brought “fresh white nectarines, fennel, and sorrel together into a gorgeous combination, leading to a long dry finish.”
![]()
2024 Unico Zelo ‘Terra Cotta’ Greco, Riverland $36 RRP
Snook selected this in her top six from the blind tasting, describing it as “pale copper in the glass” with a “savoury and subtle” nose, showing “whispers of flor, salted almond, and dried hay.” Ginseng and ginger root “bring warmth,” while green olive and citrus pith “add a sharp, savoury lift – think aged Junmai sake crossed with the intrigue of a dirty martini.” On the palate, she found it “both fleshy and precise, with pink grapefruit, yellow citrus, and olive brine gliding over a clean acid line.” A “gentle oxidative edge” brought “texture and umami depth,” while “the salty, nutty layers build slowly… finishing long and mineral-crisp – savoury and mouthwatering like the last sip of a perfectly made dirty vodka Martini… a wine of elegance, tension, and quiet swagger.”
