The suite of reserve wines is a welcome addition to the Sigurd portfolio, with this elevating a variety so infrequently celebrated in the Barossa. This is from the sandy soils of Vine Vale and plants that clocked in at around 110 years at the time of picking. Mineral, spicy and laced with umami on a bed of citrus, this is textural, chewy and so engagingly savoury and complex.
A deep lemony gold hue, no doubt from the fermentation and year-long maturation in 4-year-old barrels. There’s plenty of flavour on the nose, but the pedal is on savouriness and off primary fruit, with smoky-umami-malty notes, lanolin, anise, carraway-flecked rye bread, pumpernickel and green chilli seeds across a lemon-fruited backdrop. There’s ample texture, a gravelly mineral character and gentle but meaningfully present line of acidity enhanced by a dry clutch of phenolics.
Themes of this wine
In league with sauvignon blanc and muscadelle, semillon is responsible for the dry whites of Bordeaux, as well as the great sweet wines of Sauternes, Barsac et al. In Australia, semillon found its own unique niche in the Hunter Valley, making low alcohol, super-bright and zippy wines that age for decades, while in Margaret River it is more often than not blended with sauvignon blanc to make the region’s signature aromatic white.
The Barossa is arguably Australia’s most revered wine region. It dwarfs many other fine wine regions for scale, while firmly maintaining a quality profile, with its distinctive style and character recognised worldwide. It is dripping in history, has far and away the largest resource of old and ancient vines in the country, and fifth- and sixth-generation growers and makers proliferate. It is fair to call it the cornerstone of Australian wine. It is the home of powerful red wines, established names making established styles, but there are also makers finding new meaning in the territory.