The Top Wines
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2023 The Cutting Shiraz, $60 RRP
Singh, Mullany, Nadeson, and Jemmeson all selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Singh found “the nose is quite expressive: plum and dark cherries, hints of cherry-cola, candied fruits, liquorice, and dried herbs. Medium- to full-bodied, with a tight structure and palate shape, alongside good acidity that holds the fruit together. Fine and elegant tannins on the finish. A shiraz showing restraint and poise.” Mullany described it as “refined like a jewel on the nose: there’s red plum infused with orange oil, rose, blackberry conserve, church incense, pepper, and a touch of wild game. On the palate, the wine is round and silky, with a vitality that I associate with the ‘new wave’ of Barossa shiraz.” Nadeson noted “an immersive nose – the fragrance of dried thyme and oregano instantly transports me to a herb garden in the dying days of late summer. Time in the glass brings out a previously-unseen and attractive vanilla note, alongside a pleasant dried cranberry character – the wine is suddenly lush and silky, transformed from disciplinarian into quite the temptress.” Jemmeson found “blackberry, blackcurrant and juicy blueberry forming the heart of this shiraz, layered with hints of ripe plum. The palate is plush and brooding, yet vibrant – with fresh acidity and a gentle mineral snap adding shape and energy. It’s a wine that balances richness with brightness.”
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2023 Phase Three ‘Home of the Dero’ Syrah, $65 RRP
Infimo, Mullany, and Iga all included this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Infimo observed “a vivid deep ruby colour in the glass, flecked with purple. Heady and perfumed at first whiff: violets and lavender, cassia and nutmeg, a hint of stalky spice. Underneath the spice and florals, there’s pure, juicy fruit notes: black cherry, loganberry, blackcurrant, blood plum. It’s silky on the palate, with fine tannins and a whisper of glycerol weight.” Mullany noted “three hallmarks of the ‘new wave’ are perfume, elegance, and poise – and this wine has them in spades. Its aromatics are exuberant, with red plum, blood orange, blackberry, cinnamon and lavender, as well as a savoury liquorice root note. The lively palate has a fine tannic grip, reflecting a deft touch in the winery.” Iga found “a bouquet of violets and hibiscus rising vividly, joined by cinnamon, clove, and bitter orange peel. There’s stalky freshness that adds lift here, indicative of a touch of whole-bunch fermentation. The palate brims with crushed strawberry, cherry, currant, and cranberry – it’s juicy yet textured.”
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2023 Arila Gardens ‘Moppa’ Shiraz, $45 RRP
Singh, Jemmeson, and Gueritot all chose this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Singh described “the nose is layered and complex – crunchy plum, dark cherries, black olives and a mineral note reminiscent of graphite. A medium- to full-bodied wine with red fruits that are held together beautifully by a great backbone of acidity. Tight and refreshing with fine elegant tannins.” Jemmeson called it “a showstopper that keeps evolving. It bursts with bright raspberry, fresh blackberry and even a hint of crunchy redcurrant, threaded with pepper, clove and star anise. On the palate, mocha and red frogs meet darker notes of blueberry crumble, chocolate ganache and spiced plum compote. It’s vibrant and persistent, a crowd-pleaser at any dinner party.” Gueritot noted the wine “shows very good intensity and concentration in its fresh and pleasant raspberry fruit profile, while avoiding any sign of over-ripeness. The fruit character shows significant freshness alongside a gentle ripe character, suggesting that the fruit is sourced from one of Barossa’s higher altitude sites.”
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2022 Spinifex Syrah, $30 RRP
Nadeson and Infimo both featured this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Nadeson was enthusiastic: “My gosh, is there some serious complexity here! The nose is initially so enticing – with its notes of Chinese five-spice, peppercorn, and plum sauce, the fragrance has many of the trimmings of a ‘succulent Chinese meal.’ The palate is equally compelling, with a deep, rich luxuriousness to the mouthfeel that’s cushioned in meaty savouriness. While this is most definitely a full-bodied shiraz, the oak is in harmony with the compact core of black cherry and bramble fruit. This is serious shiraz, demonstrating the winemaker’s appreciation for the dense core of the region’s fruit while also opting to pursue rustic savouriness.” Infimo noted “ripe blue and red plums, rhubarb compote, morello cherry and hibiscus meeting black pepper, woodsmoke, and spicy paprika. Softly-textured on the palate, with a generosity of fruit weight and supple tannins, and just enough acidity to keep things fresh. A seductive example of ‘new wave’ Barossa shiraz.”
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2023 Small Victories Shiraz, $29 RRP
Singh and Mullany both had this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Singh found “the nose is dark, brooding and gamey – it starts with olive tapenade, tobacco leaf, and hints of liquorice, then opens up to reveal ripe cherries and blackcurrant. A medium- to full-bodied wine, expressing refreshing acidity and good concentration, with gentle silky tannins holding the structure together.” Mullany described it as “calm and composed. First there’s fresh blackberry, blueberry, fig and hoisin. Then subtle hints of bay leaf and terracotta. From the first sip, the wine is bright and juicy, with red and black brambly fruit, pressed flowers, cedar and garrigue. It radiates energy and is so, so drinkable, gliding across the palate like a flying fox.”
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2024 Elk Wines ‘The Stag’ Shiraz, $60 RRP
Infimo and Iga both chose this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Infimo found “inky concentration of colour in the glass. Blackcurrant, blackberry and blueberry fruit lead on the nose, with an earthy bass tone of liquorice underneath. On the palate there’s lovely concentration, with fine, graphite-like tannins framing the generous fruit profile and fresh acidity providing balance. A wine that deftly balances Barossa concentration with vibrancy.” Iga described “crushed strawberry and blueberry leaping from the glass, lively and bright, yet underpinned by earthy, soil-driven complexity. A subtle peppery edge meets tea leaf and even a matcha-like umami note. Smooth tannins carry dense savoury depth, enriched by blackcurrant and ripe plum. A wine of calm joy – best opened on a sunlit day with friends in the house garden.”
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2024 Agricola ‘Flaxman Valley’ Shiraz, $80 RRP
Jemmeson and Infimo both selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Jemmeson found “a vibrant, perfumed shiraz that opens with waves of blackberry and spiced plum, lifted by a burst of fresh raspberry and hints of lavender and violet. As it stretches out, there’s a touch of blackberry compote and mulberry richness, layered with savoury black olive, tobacco leaf, and a whisper of dark chocolate. This is a wine that swings between pretty florals and savoury depth – perfect with grilled lamb cutlets or a rustic Sunday roast.” Infimo noted “a deep ruby hue, inky in the glass. Dense, brooding nose of satsuma and blood plums, morello cherry, blackberry, smoked paprika, olive tapenade, lifted by redcurrant and violet. Power on the palate without weight, vibrant acidity and detailed tannins that frame the fruit. Deeply complex, yet compellingly subtle.”
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2024 Thistledown ‘Where Eagles Dare’ Old Vine Shiraz, $95 RRP
Nadeson and Jemmeson both included this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Nadeson observed “the aroma here is bright and so much fun, an intoxicating gamut of confectionary – think red frogs and blackcurrant fruit pastilles. The palate itself is, surprisingly, almost antithetical to this playful nose. While still fresh and lively, there are layers upon layers of complexity here: a core of baking spices and red plums, framed with subtle tannins. This is the kind of wine I think about when I think about ‘new wave’ Barossa – a wine that shows the maker’s deliberate dedication to techniques that ensure freshness and vibrancy.” Jemmeson found it “delicate and aromatic, this lighter-framed shiraz shows off violets, fresh raspberry, cherry, and just-ripe plum, underpinned by a ripple of raspberry jam and blackcurrant pastille. The palate is finely structured, with chalky tannins and a savoury twist of cured meat, olive tapenade and dried herbs. The kind of wine that carries a picnic from laying down the blanket to eating the last slice of salami.”
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2022 Phase Three ‘Dero’ Syrah, $55 RRP
Infimo, Gueritot, and Iga all had this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Infimo described “deep and inky in the glass. Black cherry, blackberry, raspberry and redcurrant on the nose, with exotic spice characters of sandalwood, star anise, and a tiny minty hint of eucalyptus. There’s power and concentration on the palate, but also freshness and buoyancy, with acidity and crushed gravel minerality keeping the wine vivid and lively. A wine of tension and precision.” Gueritot noted “good intensity from the fruit concentration, with a slightly more pronounced sweetness in its character. The tannins are dry, and underline a wine built for the long run, while the vibrant acidity suggests great care in the picking window to preserve freshness.” Iga found “a lively perfume rising immediately, with strawberry, pomegranate, and ripe cherry forming a crushed-berry core. Freshness comes from mint and herbs, while ripe fruit adds warmth and depth. Bright, fresh, and joyful, it’s a wine that sparkles with energy.”
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2023 Milton Park ‘Saignée’ Shiraz, $20 RRP
Gueritot and Infimo both selected this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Gueritot called it “maybe the most obviously ‘new wave’ or non-traditional example from the tasting in terms of colour and fruit profile. The light colour indicates a shorter maceration period and less extraction, but the wine nonetheless maintains an intense and infused juicy red fruit character – a candied fruit profile that maintains a certain natural sweetness, similar to a cranberry or strawberry liqueur. One of the few wines of the day that doesn’t necessarily call for the balance of food, and can be enjoyed on its own.” Infimo found it “exceptionally light and bright in the glass, with a vivid, jewel-like purity. Aromatics of raspberry, strawberry, pomegranate, rosewater, white pepper and a hint of bramble leaf spice. Very light, fresh and juicy on the palate, with a crunchy zip and energetic drive. A slurpy, very drinkable vin de soif–style wine that joyously disregards Barossa tradition.”
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2024 Kies Family Wines ‘Deer Stalker’ Shiraz, $35 RRP
Iga had this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Powdery, mineral-tinged aromatics create a savoury undertone, lifted by tea leaf, dill, and oregano,” he described. “Violet adds brightness, while crushed red berry notes – raspberry foremost – bring a vivid freshness. On the palate, the wine is plush and delicious, its juiciness and spice balanced by fine acidity and gently ripe fruit. Strawberry, ripe plum, and mulberry mingle with a touch of milk chocolate and even chestnut purée, finishing with a pleasant bite of tannin. A violet-hued delight for a bright day.”
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2024 Head Wines Old Vine Shiraz, $40 RRP
Gueritot chose this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Possibly the most balanced wine in the day’s tasting, combining a lot of freshness in the fruit profile with intensity of flavour,” he observed. “The fruit profile mixes crushed strawberries with hints of raspberry coulis and a herbaceous character that suggests a combination of earlier picking to balance the fruit with enough freshness and acidity and/or higher altitude vineyard sources. The wine offers good length, showing judicious élevage, and develops into the glass further with notes of mint chocolate and a darker, inky fruit element. This is a richer style of the ‘new wave’, with a slightly wider mouthfeel – one that seems to combine elements of the Barossa’s past with the current need to preserve freshness.”
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2023 Curator Wine Co. ‘Curator – Marananga Vineyard’ Shiraz, $65 RRP
Iga featured this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Bright, smooth, and elegant, this wine harmonises redcurrant and red cherry fruit with herbal notes of green pepper and thyme, adding lift and freshness,” he noted. “The palate continues with generous red fruit, framed by gentle sweetness and ripe acidity. Tannins are beautifully integrated – perhaps a touch of time in large-format oak vats lending polish and composure. Perfectly balanced, it embodies a ‘new wave’ sensibility while still expressing the quality fruit given by the Barossa’s soils and climate.”
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2023 Forage Supply Co. ‘Rib Tickler’ Shiraz, $40 RRP
Jemmeson included this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “All brightness and energy, this wine shows the playful side of Barossa shiraz,” she observed. “Raspberry, redcurrant and pomegranate burst from the glass, joined by jubey red lollies, ripe strawberries, and a little blueberry and plum skin for extra depth. There’s a twist of white pepper and dried thyme adding a savoury edge, keeping the wine from tipping into pure fruit sweetness. Light, juicy and seriously fun, it could be served with a slight chill alongside wood-fired pizza – or at a backyard party where the bottle will disappear quickly and happily.”
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2023 Wonderground Shiraz, $35 RRP
Nadeson chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “This wine smells almost exactly like my favourite perfume, Diptyque’s ‘34 Boulevard Saint Germain’ – in which spices of cinnamon, clove, and cassis meet a bouquet of iris and geranium flowers, all of which is grounded in woody vanilla,” she described. “Past the intoxicating nose, red plums and cherries burst in the mouth – I love the summer fruit charm. I’m also very much into the focused acid line here – it gives the wine dazzling vivacity. A real star of the show!”
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2022 Hewitson ‘Monopole – Mother Vine’ Shiraz, $90 RRP
Gueritot selected this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Shows much more evolution – a wine ready to drink,” he noted. “While the colour of the wine remains vibrant and does not show signs of age, its fresh and delicate mouthfeel, combined with tertiary notes of tomato leaf, cigar box, tobacco leaf and fresh forest mushroom offers a fairly contrasting view in between the other expressions. Dark plum and black raspberry fruit on the palate, with a touch of soft baking spice notes that suggest the possible use of French oak barrels, which help maintain the balance of fruit and tannin in the wine. A singular example of ‘new wave’ Barossa with a touch of the Rhône about it.”
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2022 First Drop Wines ‘Mother’s Milk’ Shiraz, $28 RRP
Singh and Mullany both had this wine in their top six from the blind tasting. Singh found “notes of cherry cola, black olives and graphite gradually revealing underlying fruit characteristics of crunchy plum and cherries. On the palate, plush red fruit notes are held together well by a mouth-filling, juicy acidity. There’s a minerality here which is alluring. Fine tannins on the finish. Elegance with some fruit power.” Mullany described “alluring aromas of violet, blueberry and blackcurrant. Then comes the signature syrah notes of cracked pepper, olive and game. Add in charcoal and linseed, and you have one captivating wine. The new wave is on display here with the refined fruit power and juicy acidity, energising the palate and carrying the violet and plum flavours all the way to your front door.”
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2024 Alkina ‘Estate’ Shiraz, $55 RRP
Nadeson featured this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “There’s a real brooding quality to this wine,” she observed. “I’m partial to some stalk in shiraz – and this has it in bunches! Evident on the first sniff, the whole-bunch fermentation here offers both a pepperiness and bitter amaro-like quality. This spicy character feels genuinely boundary pushing, and it does drive the wine’s profile right to the far edge, risking imbalance – but the winemaker’s hand pulls it back from the brink. Firm tannins coat the mouth, and nice tart acidity carries flavours of stewed blackberries. I would love to see this with some more age so I could track how these powerful elements will further integrate.”
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2024 Yelland & Papps Wines ‘Stone Well’ Syrah, $49 RRP
Iga included this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A luminous ruby with violet hues, this wine offers vivid aromas of raspberry and redcurrant, carried by sleek acidity, ripe fruit, and firm, balanced tannins,” he described. “Lavender, thyme, white pepper, and even red shiso notes add aromatic intrigue, with a gentle smokiness in the background. On the palate, the sweet-edged fruit profile softens the wine’s structure, the texture lively and appealing. Perfect with glazed yakitori skewers – smoky grilled chicken brushed with a savoury-sweet soy glaze – where the char and caramelised sweetness echo the wine’s balance.”
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2023 Head Wines ‘Head Red’ Shiraz, $30 RRP
Mullany had this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A beautiful and elaborate nose, like a Baroque window-frame,” he described. “Shining through are blueberry and plum fruits, fragrant pot pourri, crushed granite, camphor, cedar, and Tasmanian pepperberry. A herbal lift in the nose reveals an exemplary ‘new wave’ use of whole bunch fermentation. The palate has a suave, chalky mouthfeel with black plum and fig coming to the fore, together with cinnamon and bay leaf. Make space in your cellar for this one.”
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2021 Smallfry ‘Vine Vale’ Shiraz, $36 RRP
Nadeson featured this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “I really like this wine,” she noted. “Dark garnet in colour, and equally deep and inky in flavour: there’s a twirling interplay of just-ripe blackcurrant, blackberry pips, all bright and lifted with toasted cardamom spice. This wine showcases the type of richness that feels generous and indulgent without overwhelming the palate – an oftentimes difficult thing to get right in the cellar, but one made to look easy here.”
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2023 Standish Wine Co. ‘The Schubert Theorem’ Shiraz, $150 RRP
Jemmeson chose this wine in her top six from the blind tasting. “This is ‘new wave’ Barossa shiraz in a darker, denser mood,” she observed. “Blackberries, mulberries and blueberries come in waves – some fresh, others more like thick, ripe compote, laced with a touch of cassis and black cherry. A smoky, charry oak note and dark herbal edge of rosemary and bay leaf add a savoury counterpoint, while lively acidity keeps all that richness in check. There’s power, weight and depth here, but also balance – making it the perfect match for smoky barbecued meat, sticky beef ribs, or chargrilled eggplant. A bold, generous Barossa shiraz that still knows how to stay fresh.”
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2022 Spinifex ‘Moppa Vineyard’ Shiraz, $65 RRP
Singh selected this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “Layers of sage, dried herbs, chrysanthemum, ripe plums, and dark cherries,” he noted. “Plush and silky tannins hold the red fruits together on the palate – there’s a concentration of fruit which is balanced by the wine’s tannin structure. The finish is elegant and savoury.”
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2022 White Gate Syrah, $34 RRP
Mullany chose this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A savoury rockstar of a wine – comfortably in the ‘new wave’ camp,” he described. “Lifted aromatics of rosehip, tea leaves, red plum, kirschwasser, oregano, and fresh new leather. The palate is silky, with a fine, stony tannic grip – showing juicy red plum, blackberry, baked earth, frankincense and rosemary. Its herbal quality and vibrant, medium-bodied palate are a welcome addition to the Barossa conversation. Delicious by itself, or pair it with a ragù.”
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2023 Frederick Stevenson ‘Syrah & Friends’, $40 RRP
Singh selected this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “On the nose there are elements of dark cherry, mushrooms, truffle and dried herbs – think rosemary and sage – with the overall bouquet leaning into those darker elements,” he observed. “An elegant palate here, with good fruit weight, refreshing acidity, and fine tannins.”
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2023 Chaffey Bros. Wine Co. ‘Omnia Nova’ Old Vine Syrah, $34 RRP
Gueritot had this wine in his top six from the blind tasting. “A nice wine to appear early in the lineup, speaking directly to the theme of the tasting,” he noted. “At first, there are signs of early picked fruit that come through via a fresh, green, herbaceous character. With time in the glass, fresh red fruit characteristics of cranberry and red plum appear. The light-weight texture on the mid-palate gets progressively broader, suggesting an interplay of sand and clay soil profiles in the vineyard. The true ripeness of the fruit appears further with aeration, which shows a light sweetness in its notes of blackberry and morello cherry, as well as a touch of liquorice on the finish.”
