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Eperosa – Magnolia Vineyard, Barossa Valley Brett Grocke

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Nestled in a Barossa Valley gully at 305–335 meters, Eperosa’s Magnolia vineyard, spanning 5.5 hectares, is tended by sixth-generation viticulturist Brett Grocke, with vines planted from 1896 to 2017. Its deep granitic sands, fed by three winter streams, support dry-grown shiraz, semillon, grenache noir, and grenache blanc, mostly on own roots. Grocke’s organic (not certified), regenerative approach – featuring permanent swards, winter sheep grazing, and minimal copper – enhances soil health and vine longevity. Wines include Eperosa’s Magnolia 1941 Semillon, NV Magnolia Blanc Semillon, Grenache Blanc, 1950 Grenache, Shiraz, 1965 Shiraz, and 1896 Shiraz. Magnolia defies Barossa’s bold stereotype, delivering finesse and minerality from its cool microclimate and sandy terroir. Grocke’s climate-ready tactics, like planting drought-tolerant grenache blanc and reworking old vines, bolster resilience. A family-run operation with deep community ties, this vineyard channels all fruit into Eperosa’s wines, blending heritage and innovation to craft a refined counterpoint to the region’s norm.

In a region celebrated for muscle and swagger, Magnolia Vineyard sits quietly in the background – modest, measured, and full of intent. Planted as early as 1896, with vines now well over a century old, this 5.5-hectare Barossa site (4.2 hectares under vine) isn’t defined by power but by poise. It turns the Barossa story on its head – trading heavy clays for deep granitic sands, blockbuster reds for fragrant, mineral-etched wines that hum with tension and detail.

“I call it the feminine vineyard,” says Brett Grocke, the sixth-generation Barossan and trained viticulturist who owns and farms the site. “Especially when describing the shiraz. The wines have that elegant or feminine power.”

Grocke’s bond with the land runs deep. He grew up in the Barossa, studied viticulture, and after years consulting and working across vineyards, bought Magnolia in 2013. What he inherited was a vineyard rich in history – planted as early as 1896 – but depleted from conventional management. “The vines were nutrient-poor, YANs were through the floor, and we had fermentation issues early on,” he recalls. “But the site had something. There was a raw potential that just needed time and care.”

That care has become Grocke’s signature. Magnolia is now fully dry grown – save for the youngest vines in exceptional years – and run organically (not certified) and regeneratively. There’s no herbicide, no cultivation, no synthetic fertiliser. Cover crops are permanent. Sheep graze the midrows through winter, providing nutrients and reducing mowing. Fungicide use is minimal, and thanks to gully breezes and elevation (305–335 metres), frost and disease pressure are practically nonexistent.

Water, however, is everything. “We get less than 500mm of rain a year, so it’s all about access to subsoil moisture,” Grocke explains. Magnolia sits in a gully where three winter streams converge. “It’s a Goldilocks site. The roots penetrate deep into those granitic sands and access moisture from the catchments. That’s what lets us dry grow.”

The soils, largely deep alluvial sand over clay, shape the vineyard’s character. “They deliver finesse. Purity. The whites have this mineral, saline feel – like oyster shell. The reds are detailed and lifted. We’re not chasing big Barossa power here.”

The wines echo that restraint. Eperosa’s Magnolia 1896 Shiraz is a standout – long, elegant, perfumed, with the sort of tannin and fruit profile that might make you think northern Rhône. The 1941 Semillon and NV Magnolia Blanc show remarkable energy and texture, shaped by old vines and dry-farming in deep quartz sands washed off the ranges. Newer plantings of grenache and grenache blanc (the latter among the first outside Yalumba) reflect Grocke’s eye on the future. “Grenache is the king of drought tolerance,” says Grocke, who sees it as perfectly suited to the Barossa’s evolving climate and increasingly dry conditions.

There’s plenty of innovation too, albeit on a humble scale. “We made a hand wire destemmer that fits over a megabin,” Grocke says. “Some parts of the vineyard give us big bunches with green stems, so we field destem – keeping whole berries without the green rachis that can bring harshness.” Drone flyovers are also being trialled to monitor vine health and to help tell the vineyard’s story from above.

Much of the work is done by Grocke and his family. “We have one trusted contract crew that’s been with us 22 years. Otherwise, it’s us. We even prune using Simonet & Sirch techniques to enhance sapflow.” That careful pruning – mostly rod and spur – supports vine longevity and has helped in reworking Eutypa-affected vines. “We use a mini arborist chainsaw and electric snips to focus on sapflow, removing dead or diseased arms. It’s time consuming, but it gives those vines another shot.”

The fruit is handpicked across the vineyard, with Brett aligning tasks to the lunar calendar. “We pick early, aiming for energy and vibrancy rather than weight. Earlier picking doesn’t mean underdone – if the vines are balanced, you can get phenolic ripeness at lower sugars.” All fruit is hand sorted. Native yeasts handle fermentation. Nothing is fined or filtered.

That balance and purity are felt in the glass – and they start in the soil. “The link between the vine and the soil is the strongest it’s ever been,” says Grocke. “The fruit is more expressive of site now. The aromatics have detail. The palate is longer, more structured.”

And it’s not just about wine. Grocke’s commitment to sustainability extends into every corner of the property. He’s built an off-grid, underground winery from concrete, using thermal mass to stabilise temperature and humidity. Wine movements are manual or gravity-fed. A 30kW solar array powers the cellar. Water is harvested from 45,000-litre rain tanks. Lighter bottles, local suppliers, and beeswax caps from the Flinders Ranges round out the low-impact approach.

Still, there are challenges. “Couch grass is our kryptonite,” he admits. “It’s hard to beat without glyphosate, and we’ve tried everything – solarisation, manual digging, even organic weedicide. We’re open to ideas.”

Next on the horizon? Reworking the 1950 grenache block, pushing further into biodynamics, and revegetating the creek lines with natives. “We want to remove blackberries and bamboo – it’s a delicate job on sandy soils, but the goal is a more balanced, biodiverse landscape.”

For Grocke, it’s all part of being a custodian. “We want to leave this vineyard in better shape than we found it. It’s a special place.” And in the quiet of that north-facing gully, among ancient vines and winter-grazing sheep, there’s a feeling of calm, deliberate care. “It’s just a beautiful place to be,” he says. “A happy place.”

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