Forget the overtly fruity, bubblegum-scented clichés of Beaujolais nouveau – when treated with respect, gamay is just as capable of greatness as any ‘noble’ variety. This wine is a serious – and seriously delicious – take on the grape: a dark-fruited, savoury, and smoky delight.
A savoury and complex nose – black cherries, Satsuma plums, and boysenberry overlaid with campfire smoke, oregano, green capsicum, tonka bean, prosciutto and smoked paprika. It’s bright and relatively light on the palate, but not lacking in depth or concentration – it feels paradoxically both brooding in nature yet light on its feet, with ultra-supple tannins and a sweep of fresh acidity that rapidly moves it down the palate. The flavour profile is decidedly savoury, with a fascinating interplay of herbaceous, green characteristics entwining with the smoky, umami elements – think the burnt ends of barbecued brisket, drizzled with a sour cherry glaze and a handful of freshly-chopped marjoram. There’s 30% whole bunch in this wine, and it shows – but the stemmy flavours add character and interest without overpowering the fruit. A brilliant example of just how layered and nuanced Australian gamay can be.
Gamay – the sole red grape of Beaujolais – has had a slowish start in this country, but enthusiasm is rapidly growing. The potential for it to make engagingly distinctive wine is key, but the grape is also a lot less fickle than its cousin pinot noir. Gamay’s flavours tend to be a bit fuller than pinot, with riper, more luscious forest berries and flashes of violets quite common. It also commonly displays fruit in a cherry spectrum, both red and black, depending on ripeness. It’s a variety that holds acidity quite well, so it can be fresh, and it often has quite a bit of tannin, which is very apparent in the more serious and age-worthy bottlings. Like pinot noir, it can also be quite transparent in its reflection of terroir, with minerality often on show.
The Yarra Valley, about 50 km north-east of Melbourne, is one of Australia’s premier wine regions, and one of the country’s coldest viticultural zones. The regional champions are chardonnay and pinot noir, with cabernet and shiraz in more than able support. Aside from the vinous pedigree, the Yarra is also one of the best-serviced wine regions for visitors, with a wealth of cellar doors and restaurants, and ample accommodation across the price spectrum.
Yep – the whole thing. If you ferment with whole bunches, you’ll get a different result. The stems add more tannin, and tannin with a slightly different feel in the mouth to grape skin or oak tannin. You’ll also get some of those berries fermenting more or less whole, which yields a brighter fruit profile alongside a raft of spices.
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