Goodwin had already been bitten by the wine bug when he was diagnosed with an advanced, and likely terminal, case of silicosis – a lung condition caused by the inhalation of silica dust, which he had been exposed to in the course of his former career as a stonemason, despite using the required protective equipment. “I am a stonemason by trade, but after 10 years I needed a change and worked on music festivals before starting my journey in wine retail,” he says. While working in boutique liquor stores in Byron Bay and studying for his WSET qualification, he received his diagnosis. “As a result of this, I decided that I wanted to pursue a long term dream of mine, winemaking. My partner and I moved to Tenterfield in early 2020 and I got a job with Bent Road Winery on the Granite Belt as a cellar hand, [where I] was mentored by Glen Robert. I wanted to launch my own label and was supported to do so – and in 2021 I registered the name Knucklehead Wines. The wines would be released in December 2022.”
Learning the winemaking trade didn’t stop Goodwin from working on another, more profound project: campaigning for the Australian government to ban the manufacture and importation of the engineered stone products that gave him silicosis. (This artificial material, made from a composite of crushed stone in polymer resin or cement, poses a health risk to workers who handle it owing to its high silica content.) “I was involved in advocacy around silicosis awareness from 2019 and have been heavily involved ever since, leading the campaign to have engineered stone bench top products banned in Australia,” Goodwin says. “The balance of work and advocacy has been a challenge, requiring me to take time away from winemaking to travel to meetings and media appearances. This was hugely helped by working with amazing people at Bent Road Winery, who were always supportive of my continued work with this amazing cause.” Several of Goodwin’s filmed media appearances as part of this campaign took place amongst the vines at Bent Road, with Goodwin hastily changing out of his winemaker clobber into a pressed shirt for the shoot before leaping straight back into work in the cellar. The dedication with which he pursued this goal, alongside the hard work of unions, lawyers, and other activists, meant that in July 2024 the Australian government became the first in the world to completely ban these products.
Goodwin hasn’t wasted any time in honing his winemaking approach. “I make wines that reflect my personal taste, focusing on creating wines I genuinely enjoy drinking myself,” he says. “I believe in crafting wines that feel true to who I am, rather than making something just to fit a market. I approach winemaking with a hands-on process, carefully monitoring each step and releasing the wines when I feel they’re truly ready, rather than adhering to a specific expectation of what they ‘should’ be. My wines are a window into my world, what my taste is like.”
“I believe in crafting wines that feel true to who I am, rather than making something just to fit a market.”
Goodwin’s taste is reflected in the varietal mix of Knucklehead Wines. “I have always had a love for Italian varieties like nebbiolo and montepulciano,” he says, “and being in a region with a long history of Italian families growing and making these, I have been lucky to be surrounded by great local examples.” He’s at an advantage here in the Granite Belt, which has yet to settle in on signature grape varieties in the same way as higher-profile and more established Australian regions have. “As a small producer who doesn’t grow grapes myself, it has been important to create relationships with these people and learn how well these varieties grow and can be made in this region,” Goodwin adds.
Use of amphorae helps Knucklehead stand out, although there’s no set winemaking doctrines at play here. “I’ve always been drawn to amphora wines and skin contact wines, which offer a unique depth and complexity that I find interesting and exciting,” Goodwin says. “These techniques allow me to bring out the true character of the grapes, resulting in wines that are rich, earthy, and full of life. This project is not just about making wine, it’s about honouring tradition while embracing innovation.” Knucklehead is carving out a niche for amphora work, particularly in the reds. “I do all my Italian red varieties in clay amphora for a long extended skin contact period,” he adds. “This is something I have become known for and the response to these wines has been very positive. These wines are never fined or filtered, so as to preserve all the characteristics I have observed throughout the skin contact period and allow the customer to experience the joy that I have seen.”
As can be expected, Goodwin’s work at Bent Road also informs his approach at Knucklehead. “I also make wines as part of a larger company, and I find it interesting to compare the company’s commercial philosophy with my own approach to winemaking,” he adds. “I’ve always been curious about how the wines I envision will be received by my peers. It’s definitely been a challenging journey – making the wines is the easier part. The real challenge is selling wines under a new label from a lesser-known region, especially in a market that’s already full of so many great producers.”
“The whole community I am surrounded by have always stood by me. I am truly blessed to be surrounded by all these people.”
Goodwin faces those challenges with the support of the Granite Belt winemaking community – one that he also credits with providing inspiration for Knucklehead’s approach. “I’m fortunate to be part of a very diverse community with influences from all over the world, which really motivates me to create something unique,” he says. “I never want my wines to feel too familiar, and being surrounded by such a wide range of tastes pushes me to always strive for wines that stand out. The community here is made up of original Italian migrant families and winemakers with experience from places like New Zealand, Spain, China, and South Africa. We all collaborate and support each other, which I think is one of the most wonderful aspects of this region.”
He’s quick to note that, in his case, that support extends beyond the usual helping hand winemakers are ready to offer others within their communities. “Having an illness like this in my life is a challenge,” he says. “It’s always on your mind. I am supported by my amazing wife Sera and, as mentioned, the team in the winery. The whole community I am surrounded by have always stood by me, and pushed me to not only continue fighting for better working conditions for the stonemasonry industry, but also have always helped with winemaking when I have needed to be elsewhere or required an extra pair of hands. I am truly blessed to be surrounded by all these people.”
While he can’t always ignore the spectre of his diagnosis, Goodwin isn’t letting it get in the way of his future plans. “I try not to focus on what the future holds with the diagnosis, hard as that is, and keep myself busy with Knucklehead,” he says. “The focus will always be on quality over quantity – no matter how much I’d love to see the wines reach more people, it will never come at the expense of my vision. I’ll always work with the varieties I love to drink and make wines that keep me excited. I love traveling the world, picking up new techniques, discovering unique varieties, and exploring different vessels I want to experiment with, so stay tuned.” Camus would surely agree – for Goodwin, anything is possible from here.
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