Planted in 1927 on their own roots and never grafted, the vines in this seven-hectare block of marsanne are thought to be among the oldest of their kind in the world. Located in sandy loam soils in a declared Phylloxera Infested Zone, the 1927 block’s survival is remarkable. “The 1927 Marsanne vines and our 1860 Shiraz vines have both survived and are located side-by-side,” says the Tahbilk team. “While site location has likely allowed them to survive weather events and flooding, ultimately it’s the unique characteristics of the vines themselves that have seen them produce excellent fruit quality almost every year for 100 years.”
Viticultural care focuses on gentle support rather than intervention. “The ethos here is to give them what they need to keep doing what they’ve always done,” says the team. “These blocks are pruned and harvested by hand, with care taken to prioritise vine health over yield.” There is no in-house viticulturist, but the vineyard management team of Laura Thompson and Andrew Distefano outsource the technical questions of maintaining the wellbeing of these near-centenarian vines to external consultants. In order to preserve the character of the wines and the authenticity of the 1927 Marsanne label, lost vines aren’t replaced by new plantings – a bold ‘all-in’ approach to heritage.
“The 1927 Marsanne block is a story of resilience and evolution,” says Alister Purbrick, fourth-generation custodian of Tahbilk. “My grandfather, Eric, made a bold move after WWII to reduce vine density from 1,500 vines per acre to 750. It was a gamble but paid off spectacularly. In the ’80s, I re-trellised the entire block, added drip irrigation, and switched to cane and spur pruning. These vines now yield about two to three tonnes per acre, but what’s remarkable is how the wine reflects these changes. Every sip carries the weight of a century’s worth of care and decision-making.”
Perhaps unsurprisingly, operations at Tahbilk are motivated by a broad philosophy of long-term custodianship. “Sustainability is about stewardship,” says Purbrick. “We’re caretakers of this land, and our job is to preserve it for future generations.” Winemaking here is a family affair, with Purbrick’s daughter Hayley on board to drive the estate’s environmental strategies and make cultural connections with the traditional owners of the land, the Taungurung people. Those strategies include carbon neutrality: “We are proud to be among the first Australian wineries to achieve Net Carbon Zero certification,” Alister says – a goal achieved via “audited revegetation carbon sequestration credits and other initiatives on the estate.”
Looking after the land means looking after the soil. “In recent years we have seen a noticeable improvement in under vine soil health,” says Thompson, who oversees environmental and vineyard technical management. Under-vine mulching, mid-row cover cropping and reduced tractor passes contribute to a gradual but visible recovery in soil health. “Working at Tahbilk gives you a sense of where you sit in the timeline,” Thompson adds. “We want to create a good foundation for people that manage after us.”
Water is everything at Tahbilk. The estate’s name itself comes from the Taungurung phrase ‘tabilk-tabilk,’ “land of many waterholes”. Visitors to the estate cannot help but notice the extensive wetlands on site, part of a broader network of lakes, rivers and backwaters in the Nagambie Lakes subregion. To this end, the estate has invested in precision irrigation and moisture monitoring to fine-tune water use from the nearby Goulburn River. “We monitor plant stress to ensure the vines are getting correct water for health and fruit quality, while promoting resilient and healthy root systems to handle challenges in the future,” the team says. The biodiversity of the wetlands is fosterd through habitat corridors, flora trails, and ecological education.“Tahbilk is more than a winery; it’s a destination,” Purbrick adds. “Our wetlands, eco-trails, and electric boat tours let visitors experience the land in a way that connects them to our wines.”
The Nagambie Lakes subregion is one of only eight known meso-climates in global viticulture dramatically influenced by inland water masses – one of the factors shaping the connection between land and wine. “This rich environment results in cooler growing seasons, influences our winemaking and is at the heart of what make Tahbilk’s wines so unique,” says the vineyard team. The flagship 1927 Vines Marsanne is made through traditional oxidative techniques, drawing on old Hunter Valley styles. “The white wines made using this technique are undrinkable as young wines and all the magic happens with bottle age,” says Purbrick. “It’s a classic ugly duckling to beautiful swan story.” Winemaker Brendan Freeman agrees: “The contrast between our Estate Marsanne and the 1927 Vines is fascinating,” he says. “The Estate is all about modern techniques—oxygen exclusion, vibrant aromatics, and immediate drinkability … On the other hand, the 1927 Vines is a long game. This wine ages into something you couldn’t replicate anywhere else. It’s like crafting a time capsule of flavour.”
Climate change is met with innovation and adaptation. “Our projects are always balancing innovation with history and sustainability,” says the vineyard team. “While we are managing some of the oldest producing vines in the world, we are careful to take elements of each to ensure they’re not just artefacts, but continue to yield excellent fruit vintage after vintage.” The Purbricks have their eye on the long haul. “As of 2025, our family, the Purbrick family, will celebrate one hundred years of ownership of Tahbilk – this vineyard is an expression of our terroir, our marsanne legacy and a tribute to the rich history of our family winery,” says Alister.
“For me, the 1927 vines are a physical representation of history,” says cellar door manager Holly Cusworth. “We can talk about the history of vines, but when you see the vines with their gnarly trunks and canes, you can fully appreciate what these vines have been through and yet they are still here.” Part of the appeal of working at Tahbilk is sharing this heritage with the wider world. “I love walking from the wetlands, coming over the crest of the hill and watching people see the 1927 Vines for the first time. It blows their minds,” Cusworth adds. “Then we pour the wine, and it’s like everything clicks – they taste the history.”
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