Planted between 2002 and 2021, the Balhannah blocks stretch across 35 hectares of vineyard, planted to shiraz, sauvignon blanc, riesling and, more recently, gamay. From these vines comes the estate’s flagship single-vineyard expression, the Shaw + Smith Balhannah Vineyard Shiraz, as well as key parcels that contribute to their regional shiraz and sauvignon blanc bottlings. At the helm in the vineyard is Murray Leake, whose detail-first mindset has shaped a site of intention: “Sustainable farming, demonstrated through our commitment to organic certification, is the backbone of our healthy soils and strong, balanced vines,” says Leake. “Building diverse and robust soil health makes our vineyard more resilient when conditions are tough.”
The vineyard rolls between 340 and 380 metres elevation, with aspects facing north, south and east. Vine densities range from 2,777 to 5,566 per hectare. Underfoot, there’s free-draining sandy loam over a subsoil of red clay, shot through with ironstone and quartzite. It’s this iron-rich foundation that Leake credits for the structure and texture in the estate shiraz – a site-specific signature that continues to define the wines. “Our Balhannah site sits lower in the Onkaparinga Valley, receiving slightly lower rainfall than higher parts of the region,” Leake says. “Slightly warmer daytime temperatures, but cooler nights due to cold air drainage down the valley.” Understanding that microclimate is critical to success here because, in Leake’s words, “selecting a north-facing slope allows Shiraz vines to take advantage of the warmer days in a cool climate.”
The vineyard’s version of sustainability is deeply practical. Winter sees high-density rotational grazing, encouraging uniform floor management while stimulating microbial life. Inter-row and under-vine growth is maintained rather than stripped, with grazing and tactical mowing replacing chemical intervention. “Removing traffic from the vineyards through winter, maintaining ground cover undervine and improving our waterways puts us in the best position for each growing season,” Leake says. Biological inputs such as worm castings – both made onsite and sourced externally – and composted manures help to build the soils. It’s a minimal-touch system designed to maximise complexity in the glass, with the philosophy that flavour begins underfoot.
Balhannah’s true calling may be shiraz. It’s a variety that, in this particular pocket of the Hills, hits a rare equilibrium – benefiting from warm days, cool nights, and a soil matrix that seems almost engineered for red wine structure. With 8.45 hectares now planted, shiraz is set to become even more central to Balhannah. “The ability to dry-grow Shiraz at Balhannah enhances our ability to provide a true expression of site and variety,” Leake notes. “In particular, the high level of ironstone that is integrated throughout the soil profile provides texture and structure to the fruit.” For Leake, it’s almost destiny. “Some sites are just made for [certain] varieties, and the Balhannah site fits perfectly for shiraz,” he says.
Canopy work is meticulous here, especially in the shiraz. “The evolution of detailed canopy management techniques employed across our shiraz plantings is providing considerable improvements in fruit and wine quality,” says Leake. “Understanding the relationships between reproductive and vegetative growth across the vineyard is allowing more strategic canopy intervention to manipulate fruit quality.”
That insight has led to some trial-and-error breakthroughs, including their now-standard early leaf-plucking technique. “The first time we tried this it was on a small area, approximately 20% of the block, and the effect on bunch size, structure and berry size was dramatic compared to the remainder of the block,” Leake explains. “The science behind this technique is that the removal of the most functional leaves at this time compromises the development of the bunch and berries, resulting in smaller, more open bunches with smaller berries. In addition, early exposure to sunlight aids the development of tannin and conditions berries to sunlight, protecting them from later season sunburn.” For Leake, “It has become a no-brainer and is now standard practice in this shiraz block.”
The vineyard’s redevelopment is methodical. Underperforming pinot noir has been removed to make way for shiraz, while declining sauvignon blanc blocks – affected by the fungal vine disease Eutypa – are being renewed with better clones planted in higher density. Riesling has returned to the coolest sections of the vineyard, while a small block of gamay on a south-facing slope promises to be an exciting new chapter. “Ongoing removal and replanting of existing sauvignon blanc areas will improve vineyard health, productivity and quality,” says Leake. “Re-introducing [riesling] in the coolest parts of the site, with a range of clonal material, is an exciting opportunity to grow and make the variety with estate-grown fruit.” Changes in varietal composition are made from scratch, by fully removing existing vines and replanting rather than grafting over.
Each shift is made with a purpose – not just to improve vine health, but to draw more finely the distinctions of site in the wine. “Classification tastings following vintage allow the viticultural and winemaking teams the chance to look at each parcel of fruit and realise the influence of seasonal conditions and vine management,” he says. “The diversity of new clonal material and improvement of older vines has been widely noted throughout these tastings.”
Leake’s long-term goal is to dry-grow more own-rooted vines.“The aim is to build strong root systems and grow balanced canopies which can navigate the seasons without irrigation intervention,” Leake says. It’s a long game, and one that suits Balhannah just fine. With each block renewal and each fine-tuned pass through the canopy, the vineyard moves closer to its clearest expression of self.
“Our ongoing commitment to growing the best quality fruit that expresses the Balhannah site, through ongoing learning, improvement of vine selection and management practices, allows us to produce fruit of exceptional quality that represent the site and season,” Leake says. This is not a vineyard chasing trends. It’s a vineyard crafting a legacy – one leaf-pluck, replanting, and seasonal shift at a time.
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