Since 2007, the awards have provided an opportunity to connect emerging winemaking talent with wine drinkers, and to support creative talent shaking things up and exploring news ideas in wine. In that time, Young Gun of Wine and The Awards have expanded in scope and activities. The list of trophy honours have grown too. Beginning with the People’s Choice Award and the Young Gun of Wine Award, the list of trophies have expanded to also include the Best New Act, Danger Zone, the Vigneron, and the Winemaker’s Choice.
“While there are ultimately six trophies to hand out this year,” said YGOW founder Rory Kent, “The Awards are really about celebrating the collective top talents in the country as seen in this year’s top 50. When you can see the work of these makers assembled together, it is incredibly impressive and a massive statement about the quality and direction of Australian wine, and the impact these people can have into the future.”
Kent reflected further about the genesis and evolving fabric of the YGOW Awards. “We started this in 2007 with the driving mission to connect young adults to the joy of wine – through the lens of young people making some of the best wines in Australia.”
“It’s so amazing to be able to get young winemakers together from around the country and build community and wine culture. As we know all too well, passion is what really drives us and sustains us, particularly in tough times – like many are feeling with the economy at present. To be able to get together, connect, share ideas, build relationships, grow a culture of makers who want to create outstanding products and share the love of wine… it’s incredibly inspiring and motivating and sustaining!”
The top 50 winemakers for 2024 gathered in Melbourne for the final events, culminating in a trophy presentation dinner for all finalists. This followed a trade event tour that took the winemakers to Sydney and Brisbane over the preceding weeks.
“It’s so amazing to be able to get young winemakers together from around the country and build community and wine culture. As we know all too well, passion is what really drives us and sustains us, particularly in tough times – like many are feeling with the economy at present. To be able to get together, connect, share ideas, build relationships, grow a culture of makers who want to create outstanding products and share the love of wine… it’s incredibly inspiring and motivating and sustaining!”
Wine critic and owner of Silver Sands Beach Club, Nick Stock has been on the YGOW judging panel since inception. “There’s a continuously evolving narrative to the top 50 and of course the awards and currently we are seeing people really nailing their intent to produce such high quality wines that are both unique and personal,” he said.
“The top 50 winemakers are very eclectic in terms of style, geography and inspiration yet their common thread is a determined and very convincing ability to produce Australia’s most exciting wines.”
Stock continued: “The top 50 winemakers are very eclectic in terms of style, geography and inspiration yet their common thread is a determined and very convincing ability to produce Australia’s most exciting wines.”
The 2024 judging panel consisted of Young Gun of Wine’s Rory Kent; wine critic Nick Stock; Jeremy Shiell from Winespeake; Meg Brodtmann MW; Abby Moret of Atlas Vinifera; and Lauren Langfield from Orbis Wines, the 2023 Young Gun of Wine.
The Best New Act is an award to single out the hottest new wine label. “Best New Act was a real thrill this year,” said Stock. “Bridget Mack’s Werkstatt project just lit up the room from the get-go. Rarely is wine this utterly delicious and thrilling.”
Bridget Mac, the creative force behind Werkstatt Wine – with a focus on Riesling (thus far) – embodies the spirit of an artist turned winemaker, melding her passion for Germany, Austria, Switzerland wines with the distinct terroirs of Australia. Her label debuted in 2022 with releases thus far including a Riesling and a Pétillant Naturel Riesling, with a Pinot Noir to be released in due course from the 2024 vintage.
“It’s been a journey for those who are close to me will know,” said Mac. “Six years studying, working for free (or minimum wage) and starting a wine business on a shoestring budget. It’s all paying off and I’m honoured my peers have recognised my effort and the wine I’m putting out there in the world. I’ve finally found my love and passion in wine and I’m truly happy.”
The Danger Zone is the only trophy in the awards that goes to a wine: with the criteria being around wild originality, risk and reward – the best, most daring wine.
A true field blend of five varieties – radically, with cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir harvested on the same day! And it’s delicious. “Dangerously delicious!” declared awards panellist Nick Stock. “Matthias and Lauren Utzinger’s wines have this sense of conviction and confidence and their contribution to the excitement that surrounds Tasmanian wine is really significant.”
Dark crimson red. black current, cooked plum, sour cherry, vanilla and white pepper flavours. “Soft attack, important amount of young tannins, full bodied with good volume, long finish,” describes Matthias Utzinger. “Will show its full potential after a few years in bottle.”
The People’s Choice is determined by wine consumers.
Some 20 years ago, Rowly Milhinch left a career in visual communication to set up a vineyard and a family life in Rutherglen. It’s territory that his family have lived in for generations, and he was intent on honouring the traditions of the region but recasting them through his own lens. Under his Scion label, he makes fortifieds, a staple of Rutherglen, but they are twists on the classics, including a ‘Muscat Nouveau’ and dry orange muscat, ‘Blonde’, as well as making dry red from syrah, grenache and durif, with the latter also getting the light red treatment, built to chill.
“A huge thanks to all who’ve supported Sally and I in the lead up to this year’s award, and to those who’ve had our back for nearly 20 years in the wine game. Big love!” said Milhinch. “This award recognises the people around us. It speaks of your support, encouragement and belief. You’re all bloody legends.
“Making it all the more sweeter has been the company kept throughout our adventures with the Young Gun of Wine Awards. The future is bright for Australian wine.”
The Winemaker’s Choice is voted on by the winemaker finalists, after meeting to taste each other’s wines.
In the Tamar Valley, Matthias and Lauren Utzinger planted their vineyard in 2018 – now certified organic – at an impressive density of 6,500 vines per hectare. Wines for the ‘Utzinger’ labels come from their own land, as well as three additional vineyards where Matthias is hands-on in the vines – he has the vigneron ethos that wine are “grown, not made”. The Utzinger wine range showcases Tasmanian classics such as Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Riesling, and a ‘Fumé’ Sauvignon Blanc. Looking ahead, the Utzingers plan to introduce alternative varieties to their range, importing vine cuttings from Matthias’ homeland of Switzerland, promising an exciting future for this Tasmanian project.
“We feel extremely honoured taking this one home,” said Utzinger. “Being nominated by industry colleagues is the highest praise we can think of and this really motivates us to continue on our journey. Thanks to all the amazing people that voted for us and believe in our story. So much love for all of you.”
The Vigneron goes to a winemaker who grows the grapes from which the wines come. “Provenance and how wine is grown is where it all begins,” said Young Gun founder Rory Kent. “As winemakers frequently say, ‘Great wine is made in the vineyard.’”
Andrew and Victoria Kenny launched the Kenny Wine label in 2021, focusing on Clare riesling and Adelaide Hills pinot. With the purchase of a vineyard in the Clare subregion of Auburn, the 2021 vintage saw a home-site shiraz join the portfolio, while an old vine grenache and a sangiovese were added in 2022. 2023 saw the introduction of a collaboration from the Pfalz region of Germany – a ‘Kenny X Gabel’ Riesling, with more riesling and a pinot noir to be released under this label. Kenny’s wines are classic in style, expressions of variety and sites he believes excel for specific grapes, and it is in the Clare Valley that the range of wines offers a particular exploration of sub-regionality.
Their Auburn – home – vineyard was purchased in 2020. It’s a site that was planted by Kilikanoon in 2001 to shiraz, and their principal goals have been increasing biodiversity and organic matter in the soil.
Half the shiraz has also now been grafted over to sangiovese and 2023 saw a makeover of their Auburn vineyard, close planting 600 vines on around a third of the site to pinot blanc. “It’s the Clare Valley’s first pinot blanc as far as we are aware,” says Kenny. “Three years is a long wait for our first crop, but good things take time and we are excited to see what it produces.”
Receiving the Vigneron award, Kenny said was quick to acknowledge the support he and Victoria have had from their local community. “As first generation winegrowers we lean heavy on all those around us, and there are so many out there that have helped us on the way, whether it’s borrowing a tractor, pruning, picking or planting, throwing some extra seed our way, even just picking up the phone when I’ve got a question.”
Marco Lubiana launched his eponymous label from the 2018 vintage, making a chardonnay and pinot noir, which will remain his focus, with a gentle hand in the winery and tireless year-round work amongst the vines key to his approach. Those wines were made from the Lucille Vineyard, which had been recently purchased by his family and converted to biodynamic farming.
“I’m passionate about biodynamics and will only ever make wine from biodynamic vineyards that I work with,” says Lubiana
Lubiana believes that with enough attention to detail and patience, those varieties – Tasmania’s key grapes – have extraordinary potential, and they’re more than enough for him to tackle right now. “I am very lucky to be able to work with old (1973) plantings, which is very rare in Tasmania. I often think Australian winemakers can sometimes get a bit carried away with making many varieties and styles and sometimes lose the essence of the variety. By only having two wines, I know I can do my best to make them into something special. Another reason why I like having only two wines is because I am too busy in the vineyard to worry about making other wines!”
Lubiana says that his golden rule in the winery is to not touch anything too much. “My wine style is firstly defined by the terroir of the vineyard from where the grapes are grown. I listen to the vineyard and make it to the style which I think best suits the site. Harvest date drives the style and sets up the wines from the beginning. When the grapes are picked at perfect balance with low yields, it provides a wine style driven by soft tannins, fine natural acidity and great intensity.”
Stock concluded: “Our 18th Young Gun of Wine recipient Marco Lubiana joins a special group of award-winners that have taken out multiple awards over multiple years in the Young Gun of Wine Awards. This kind of deep commitment to the realm of emerging Australian winemaking talent really defines what is so valuable about the whole program. It advances the visibility, success and excitement of this whole category of Australia’s best, brightest and most talented young winemakers. But more importantly these winemakers are already proving to be the leading face of Australian wine and these winemakers are the ones building new audiences for Australian wine. They are the future and it is right here, right now.”
The Young Gun of Wine Awards is presented with thanks to Amorim Cork, Cornershop design, Locke Logstics, Nexia Australia accountants, WBM magazine, and Vintrace software.
Registrations for the 18th Annual Young Gun of Wine Awards are now open (closing December). Lauren Langfield or Orbis Wines will join the YGOW tasting panel in 2024. She knows what winemakers are going through.
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We’re all familiar with vineyard images of vines trained along a trellis, forming neat curtains of grapevine rows as the growing season progresses. But recently in the Australian wine drinkers’ lexicon, the phrase ‘bush vines’ has been popping up. So what are bush vines, and, more importantly, how do the wines from bush vines differ to those from a conventional farming system?
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