A savoury, textured and mineral chardonnay from 2020’s Young Gun of Wine.
Striking nose here, with a purity of yellow citrus fruits, yellow grapefruit and barely ripe white nectarine, shot through with nutty, saline/sea-spray notes, gently smoky scents and a lacing of clotted cream, with stone fruit kernel savouriness and chalky minerals backing it all up. So poised and savoury on the palate, too, but with ample flavour tagging along, again with a chalky mineral feel. A bit of grip and chew channels the fruit brightly through the palate, adding to the tightly framed picture.
With an explosion of interest over the last few decades, chardonnay is now the world’s most planted white grape. With its ability to grow in varied conditions and make everything from sparkling wine, to lean and mineral whites, to full-bodied textural expressions, it is perhaps no surprise to see Burgundy’s key white grape become so dominant.
Melbourne is well served with top wine regions, with the Yarra, Mornington, Geelong and Macedon all about an hour from the city. All are cool climate, but Macedon takes the prize for being the coolest, with some touting it as the best territory for chardonnay and pinot noir in the country. Evidence of that potential, aside from some glittering exceptions, haven’t exactly been crowding wine store shelves over the years, but much has changed, and there’s a dynamic community ensuring that potential is being tapped in exciting ways.
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