Henschke
One of this country’s most emblematic makers, the Henschke history extends back to the early 1840s when Johann Christian Henschke emigrated from Brandenburg, Germany. What followed was an extension of German farming principles that had been enshrined for countless generations, with a mixed farming operation that included vineyards. Wine took on more importance for the family in the early 20th century, but it was Cyril Henschke that shaped the future of the label and also the future of Australian wine. That meant a move away from fortified wines to celebrating fruit from the Eden Valley as dry table wines, both white and red. The two emblematic single-vineyard wines that Stephen and Prue Henschke (winemaker and viticulturist, respectively, and parents of the sixth generation that will carry the winery forward) continue to make are both shiraz – ‘Mount Edelstone’ and ‘Hill of Grace – but they are joined by a phalanx of other bottlings from across the Barossa and also their vineyards in the Adelaide Hills. True to the Henschke spirit, tradition is honoured here, but so too is innovation, with nebbiolo, barbera and tempranillo joining a classic varietal mix.
A: 1428 Keyneton Road Keyneton SA 5353
Ph: (08) 8564 8223
W: henschke.com.au
Rockford
Rocky O’Callaghan’s Rockford is about as iconic as Barossa wineries get. But although the winery and the approach to winemaking is dripping in history, the label was founded in 1984. That connection to the past runs strongly in O’Callaghan’s veins, with his previous role at St Hallet built on celebrating old vines – indeed, he even put the fact on the front label, the first to do so. Come the misguided ‘vine pull scheme’ of the 1980s, which saw many old and ancient vines removed under government sponsorship, and O’Callaghan fought back. Along with some other key figures, he offered good money for fruit whose price had plummeted (hence the scheme to turn the land over to more profitable crops), thus preserving the incredible resource the Barossa has to this day. Using winery equipment almost as old as some of the vines – and famously an old basket press that gives name to his most famous wine – this is a place where the past is revered and preserved but the wines are made with a modern understanding of winemaking. Today, that sense of tradition lives on, with bottlings focused on established varieties: shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, mataro, grenache, riesling, semillon and a rare varietal bottling of alicante bouschet (labelled bouchet) made as a rosé.
A: 131 Krondorf Road, Krondorf SA 5352
Ph: (08) 8563 2720
W: rockfordwines.com.au
Seppeltsfield
One of the country’s most important historic wineries, Seppeltsfield was established in 1851 by Joseph and Johanna Seppelt. A diversified farming operation evolved into one that focused on grape growing and the production of wine, with a specialty in distilling and fortifying. The Seppelt name would become one of the country’s most famous, with its tentacles extending into Victoria, notably Great Western, Henty and Rutherglen. In 1985, the business was sucked into the corporate sector until Warren Randall, supported by investors, took it back into private hands. A winemaker and viticulturist, Randall had worked for Seppelt in the 80s, and his express mission was to restore the name and the priceless historical value of the original buildings and their Canary-Island-date-palm-flanked roads (some 2,000 palms in total). Today, Seppeltsfield is still famed for fortified wines, releasing a 100-year-old vintage ‘port-style’ wine each year as part of the Centennial Collection, as well as a slew of other fortified wines. The 1888 ‘gravity cellar’ has also been restored, which turns out a collection of table wines from both established and emerging varieties. Seppeltsfield is also a thriving destination for dining and shopping.
A: 730 Seppeltsfield Rd, Seppeltsfield SA 5355
Ph: (08) 8568 6200
W: seppeltsfield.com.au
Pewsey Vale
The Eden Valley is widely celebrated as home to some of this country’s finest rieslings, and Pewsey Vale is arguably the most iconic source. Establihesed in 1847 by Joseph Gilbert with riesling, shiraz and cabernet planted, which yielded wines of considerable acclaim. Economic conditions and two World Wars saw the site slip into terminal decline. In 1961, Wyndham Hill-Smith replanted the site using remnant vine material as propagating material. Those first plantings followed the contours of the hillsides, which yield their famed ‘Contours’ bottling of riesling. In fact, everything produced is riesling these days, with the site so suited to the grape that the last shiraz was grafted over in 2012. Today, Louisa Rose makes several expressions, from the democratically affordable pan-vineyard selection to individual old vine and block wines as well as off-dry and low alcohol iterations.
Turkey Flat
When the ‘vine pull’ was in full swing, the Schulz family took the difficult decision to swim against the tide and start making wine from their old and ancient vines rather than take the temptation to be paid to remove them. Having been on the property since 1865 and operating as farmers and running a legendary butchery, grape growing had prior only formed a part of their business, with the fruit previously all sold. For a long time, most of the crop went to fortified wine production, but with the decline of the styles and a grape surplus and subsequent low prices, winemaking took centrestage, with the first commercial vintage coming in 1990. That decision saved the farm, so to speak, and it also helped to rescue the image of the Barossa and Barossan wine. Today, the Schulz family continue to nurture the old and ancient vines – the oldest shiraz being from 1847 – while establishing new plantings, and all with a sustainable mindset. Grenache has long been a strong focus for Turkey Flat, with their varietal bottling being consistently lauded, along with their pale and dry rosé – a benchmark for the region. Varietal shiraz and mataro, both a Southern Rhône white and red blend, a fortified pedro ximénez and a pair of aromatised quinine-laced wines fill out the roster.
A:67 Bethany Rd, Tanunda SA 5352
Ph: (08) 8563 2851
W: turkeyflat.com.au
Yalumba
Australia’s oldest family-owned and run winery, Yalumba was founded by Samuel Smith in 1849, where, as the story goes, he planted the first vine under the glow of the moon with his son Sidney. Today, Robert Hill-Smith, of the fifth generation, presides over the Yalumba portfolio. The company has local holdings, such as Pewsey Vale, as well as those further afield, but the Yalumba brand is based in their historic winery in Angaston. That estate is centred around the grand sandstone and marble Clocktower building, while the Wine Room opposite – formerly the brandy bond store – acts as the cellar door. Yalumba is also a key supplier of grape vine material, with the nursery established in 1975 to service their own needs, but it has since expanded to be one of the key sources for vineyards across the country. It is also the only Australian winery with an on-site cooperage, with barrels for all winemaking operations crafted with traditional methods. The Yalumba portfolio mainly spans traditional local varieties – notably the cabernet and shiraz blend, ‘The Signature’, varietal shiraz, ‘The Octavius’, and ancient vine grenache, ‘The Tricentenary’ – but they have also led the way in championing viognier, making several different iterations, culminating in ‘The Virgilius’.
A:40 Eden Valley Rd, Angaston SA 5353
Ph: (08) 8561 3309
W: yalumba.com
More of the Best Wineries
- Atze’s Corner Wines
- Barossa Valley Estate
- Bethany Wines
- Burge Family Winemakers
- Calabria Family Wines Barossa
- Charles Melton Wines
- Chateau Yaldara
- Cooper Burns Winery
- David Franz
- Elderton Wines
- Eperosa
- First Drop Wines
- Flaxman Wines
- Garden and Field Wines
- Geyer Wine Co.
- Gibson Wines
- Grant Burge Wines
- Greenock Creek Wines
- Hart of the Barossa
- Hayes Family Wines
- Hentley Farm Cellar Door
- Heritage Wines
- Hobbs of Barossa Ranges
- Hutton Vale Farm
- Izway Wines
- Jenke Vineyards
- John Duval Wines
- Kaesler Wines
- Kalleske Wines
- Kellermeister Wines
- Langmeil Winery
- Laughing Jack Wines
- Levrier Wines by Jo Irvine
- Moorooroo Park Vineyards
- Penfolds
- Peter Lehmann Wines
- Pindarie
- Poonawatta
- RedHeads
- Rieslingfreak
- Rolf Binder Wines
- Rusden Wines
- Schwarz Wine Co.
- Seabrook Wines
- St Hallett
- Thorn-Clarke Wines
- Tomfoolery Wines
- Torbreck Vintners
- Tscharke
- Turkey Flat Vineyards
- Two Hands Wines
- Whistler Wines
- Yalumba Family Winemakers
- Yelland and Papps
