Deep Dive:
Australia’s Best Pinot Meunier

15 May 2026. Words by YGOW.

Pinot meunier is closely related to pinot noir – in fact, it’s a botanically complicated mutation of pinot noir – but it hasn’t yet received the same plaudits. It was once the most widely planted grape variety in Champagne, yet until relatively recently all of the garlands there went to the glamour couple of chardonnay and pinot noir. And that traditional use in Champagne explains why a surprising amount of the variety was planted in Australia for sparkling wine production. But meunier has more to offer than simply being a blending component. A small but dedicated band of producers craft delicious still red wines from this unheralded grape variety – and as climate change wreaks havoc with finicky pinot noir, pinot meunier’s advantages in the vineyard are becoming ever clearer. Is it pinot meunier’s time to shine? We took another Deep Dive into this fascinating variety to find out.

We gathered every example of Australian pinot meunier – made as a still red wine – that we could find, and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.

Our panel: Jacob Parton, winemaker, Best’s; Mem Hemmings, owner and winemaker, Meredith; Dominic Bolton, winemaker, Best’s; Tish Peppiat, sales representative, Primavera Selections; Sophie O’Kane, beverage manager and venue manager, Julie Restaurant; Blaire Gillespie, wine merchant, Natural Science Wine & Liquor; Brook McGuinness, freelance sommelier.

From the Deep Dive

The Top Wines

2024 Polperro Pinot Meunier, Mornington Peninsula $65 RRP

This wine appeared in the top six wines of the day for Bolton, O’Kane, Gillespie, and Hemmings. Bolton described “I was immediately struck by the sense that this wine is one of the boldest in the line-up. The oak leaps out – it’s unapologetic, charry and toasty, with sweet vanilla and sarsaparilla tones. Concentrated fruit is required to match that kind of oak, and this wine doesn’t disappoint, with ripe raspberries, strawberries, and tart red cherries soaking up the oak spice to balance everything out. The palate has a charmingly rustic nature, unpolished – in a good way – with large-grained tannins. A zingy acid line keeps the wine fresh, and a long finish leaves the drinker mulling over its complexity.” O’Kane noted “this wine intrigued me for the similarity I found in it to the red wines of the Jura. The forest floor and earthy characters with the red liquorice and red frog flavours and thyme herbaceousness makes me lean more towards trousseau as a reference point. The wine drinks a bit more savoury than the others in the line-up, still with recognisable dancing acidity and some fresh crunchy cherries, raspberries and a hint of graphite to finish. A compelling interpretation of the variety – but it may not be to everyone’s tastes.” Gillespie found “a deeply savoury and gamey number. Wet leaves, undergrowth and white pepper, with cherry pits and stems in place of plush fruit. It feels like a muddy boot wander through the woods. Bring snacks, obviously, because this wine demands food.” Hemmings described it as “hazy purple-red in colour with a slightly dulled appearance. It has a glimmer of reduction aromatically – struck match, muddied damson plum, black cherry skin, spice and something smoky and earthy sitting underneath it all. There’s depth to the fruit here, moving through blackberry compote, mulberry and dark cherry, all wrapped up in layers of clove, pepper and earthy savouriness. It’s not clean-cut or conventionally beautiful – but that’s partly what makes it compelling. Some wines feel engineered to please everyone. This one felt like it had opinions. There’s a confidence in allowing those slightly chaotic edges to exist rather than sanding them off.”

 

2025 St. Hubert’s Pinot Meunier, Yarra Valley $55 RRP

Parton, Peppiat, and Hemmings selected this wine among their top six from the blind tasting. Parton described it as “a dense ruby red with great depth. The bouquet is complex with char from lightly scorched cedar, crushed strawberry, raspberry, and red cherry. On the palate it opens to reveal great whole bunch play with blueberry and cherry cola – layers of deep fruit flavour, coupled with smart selection of oak to accompany the flavour profile, and brooding dark pepper spice. The palate is vibrant, with a fine tannin line and great freshness. Still youthful and will age gracefully.” Peppiat said, “this pinot meunier is bright, fresh, and full of character. On the palate, it’s all juicy raspberries, tart cherries, and a touch of cranberry, carried by a silky texture and playful acidity that keep things lively. There’s a subtle savoury note weaving through the fruit, adding a bit of intrigue without taking away from its easy charm. It’s vibrant, unpretentious, and seriously drinkable – a wine that feels like good company rather than a formal occasion.” Hemmings said, “this feels immediately like a wine that wants to be drunk rather than analysed. The nose is lifted and bright, full of violet perfume, warm spice and that gentle pinot meunier earthiness. On the palate, it’s youthful and alive. Plenty of crunchy red fruit – somewhere between wild strawberry and red cherry. There’s brightness here without becoming shrill, and enough savoury complexity to stop it feeling simple.”

 

2025 La Violetta Meunier, Denmark (Great Southern) $42 RRP

Peppiat, Parton, and Hemmings included this wine in their top six wines from the tasting. Peppiat described it as “soft-spoken but full of charm – the kind of wine that draws you in rather than shouts for attention. The nose is subtle and graceful, with whispers of redcurrant, cherry skin, and a hint of wildflowers. On the palate, it’s bright yet silky, all lithe red fruit and gentle savoury notes, beautifully balanced and quietly complex. There’s a lovely lift of acidity that keeps it fresh and makes every sip feel effortless. It’s elegant, a bit cheeky, and totally disarming – a wine that feels like a good conversation on a lazy afternoon.” Parton described it as “deep ruby red in colour. This wine opens with an expressive and vibrant bouquet of freshly squeezed strawberries, rhubarb and red berry compote, layered with sanguine notes and a bright lift of blood orange juice. Blood orange is a unique character that I’ve only seen in meunier – which tells me that the wine is distinctly varietal. The palate is richly concentrated yet beautifully poised. Whole bunch fermentation adds complexity and aromatic lift, while bright natural acidity and a finely structured tannin line bring freshness and precision. Ethereal and elegant, the wine carries impressive depth and texture through to a long, refined finish.” Hemmings described it as “a strange little wine – and probably the most divisive wine of the lineup for me, but I mean that affectionately. The palate leans more into tang and sharp lift than plush fruit, with a fruit shrub–like edge that gives it tension and personality. This is the sort of wine that belongs on a crowded picnic rug somewhere grassy and sun-drenched, passed around between too many friends alongside someone’s homemade sourdough and dips and loud conversation.”

 

2023 Best’s ‘Young Vine – Concongella Vineyards’ Pinot Meunier, Great Western (Grampians) $45 RRP

O’Kane, Peppiat, and McGuinness chose this wine for their top six wines on the day. O’Kane described it as “aromatically so full of whimsy, reminding me of a bright red Jolly Rancher, or red Aeroplane Jelly powder. It’s conjuring thoughts of cranberries and pomegranate but in an almost cartoonish way. I was always too impatient to allow a Jolly Rancher to dissolve, and the texture of this wine also reminds me of the shattering of the lolly on my back teeth. Pray for my dentist! As I continue to crunch away, notes of lemon myrtle, wild strawberries and alpine herbs peek through. The wine is still elegant, just not overdressed or serious. In many respects you think this will be light, simple and unassuming, but looks can be deceiving – it packs a punch.” Peppiat noted that it “has bounce and charm in equal measure. It opens with a gentle swirl of red berries, wild strawberries, and a hint of rose petal, like wandering through a garden after the rain. The palate is bright, juicy, and effortlessly playful, full of crunchy cherries and a whisper of spice. It’s the friend who always brings the good energy – easy to love, hard to put down.” McGuinness found it “super precise and layered despite a soft profile. Light, translucent colour and a soft, rich mouthfeel make it an ideal picnic or al fresco wine, matching cheeses and cured meats effortlessly. Perfect for lazy picnics, warm afternoons, boisterous dogs and gatherings in the park.”

 

2025 Seppelt ‘Drumbourg Vineyard’ Pinot Meunier, Great Western (Grampians) $35 RRP

Parton and McGuinness selected this wine among their top six picks from the blind tasting. Parton described it as “ruby red with purple hues in the glass – a pinot meunier with some ripeness. Red and black cherry intertwine with chocolate oak creating characters reminiscing of Cherry Ripe. Lush wild blue berries coupled with subtle warm spices to create a meunier with richness and power. Biscuits and cream on the mid-palate point to lees work in barrel. Vibrant acidity keeps the wine bright and driven. A great example of the strength and elegance of meunier and the age-worthiness of the variety.” McGuinness called it “a well-balanced, delicate pinot meunier with clearly defined layers of strawberry and subtle rosemary, offering complexity that invites further exploration. Smooth-bodied and gliding across the palate, light to medium weight, with medium-high acidity and adequate alcohol to coax out the flavours. Delightfully drinkable, it reveals freshness, nuance, and subtle savoury complexity – ideal for a picnic on the Yarra River while watching the weekend warriors.”

 

2025 Oakridge Meunier, Yarra Valley $35 RRP

Hemmings and McGuinness included this wine in their top six wines from the tasting. Hemmings described it as “bright ruby red in the glass, with that almost translucent glow that makes lighter-bodied reds so visually appealing. There’s this coolness to it, almost like wet grass and cold water running over stones, before it moves into more savoury territory with cured meats, stems and crunchy lily pilly, cranberry juice, tart raspberry. What I like most here was the tension between ripeness and restraint. This wine has a complexity and interest that I just adore. The fruit sits slightly on the unripe side of the spectrum, but in a way that gives the wine lift and drinkability rather than greenness. It feels very honest. No make-up, no overworking, just bright Australian pinot meunier speaking clearly about freshness, crunch and ease of drinking.” McGuinness said, “this pinot meunier is initially soft yet showing pronounced mature fruit notes cherry, plum, and stone fruit that are supported by subtle aromatic herbs on the back palate. Very smooth, silky, and easy-drinking – suited to formal, structured settings with linen, a large sumptuous glass, and a large white plate full of a saucy dish. Deserves attentive dining and restraint – elegant, poised, and quietly celebratory.”

 

2023 Jackson Brooke ‘Cobboboonee Vineyard’ Pinot Meunier, Henty $36 RRP

Hemmings, Gillespie, and Bolton chose this wine for their top six wines of the day. Hemmings described it as “slightly hazy with a light red-orange hue – this wine walks a fascinating line between wildness and control. The palate is where the wine really comes together for me. The oak and fruit integration is seamless, with bright acidity carrying flavours of underripe wild strawberry, Cornelian cherry and redcurrant across the tongue. It’s a wine that says a lot about contemporary Australian pinot meunier. Less about prettiness, more about texture, tension and energy. In my notes I wrote ‘I’d drink this’ – which although it might not read like it, is high praise from me! I’d share it with my friends as we pulled together snacks compromised of what didn’t smell suspicious from the fridge and accidentally stay up talking until 2:00 am.” Gillespie noted “a pretty orange tint with a big, delightfully funky nose. Orange zest and pith lead the charge on the palate. Light, tea-like tannins and a sharp, front-footed acidity keep it lifted. Raspberry appears alongside iron, dust, and a saline edge. Tasting this wine is like looking at a vast orange sunset – the kind you only really see in outback Australia – through rose-coloured glasses.” Bolton found it “one of the most thought-provoking wines in the line-up. A pale amber and orange appearance. On the nose I’m met with citrus and orange blossom, white pepper, orange peel, and pink grapefruit. I honestly see this wine as leaning into the orange/skin-contact white realm, while managing to completely avoid presenting as a rosé. All in all, I think it’s very clever winemaking.”

 

2023 Sawyer Pinot Meunier, Adelaide Hills $40 RRP

Gillespie and Bolton selected this wine among their top six wines from the blind tasting. Gillespie described it as “the most herbaceous wine of the lineup – a bundle of freshly plucked thyme and stemmy strawberries, with white pepper lurking quietly behind. Tannins grip like oversteeped rooibos tea, drying but gentle. It feels like a warm, wandering afternoon in a slightly unruly herb garden. I know people hesitate to pair red with chicken, but it’s winter, so … I’d pair it with a herby roasted chook.” Bolton said, “memories of drinking herbal Sleepytime tea come flooding in as I bring the glass to my nose – violets, bergamot, and geranium. Dried purple flowers! Sweet red fruits appear after the initial wave of botanical bliss – think strawberries, raspberries, and redcurrants. Despite the delicate nose, the body of the wine is well structured, with fine-grained tannins and a sound acid line that keeps the wine in balance.”

 

2024 Gala Estate ‘The Miller’ Pinot Meunier, East Coast (Tasmania) $65 RRP

Bolton and O’Kane included this wine in their top six picks from the tasting. Bolton noted “a great combination of clever winemaking and beautiful ripe fruit. In the glass, it’s a clear ruby colour with red hues. The fruit spectrum lands in the red-to-blue realm, with fresh raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries. A touch of bunchiness skirts the line between confectionary and bramble savouriness. Toasty oak elements of sweet baking spice and vanilla compliment the fruit concentration, without overpowering it. Layers of complexity with a mouthwatering acidity that has you going back for another sip.” O’Kane described it as “a fragrantly generous wine. Sweet, petite cranberries, pomegranate seeds and redcurrants dance around a hint of rose water and hibiscus. As you drink this you get flavours of hibiscus and pomegranate, but also hints of white peaches and sweet ruby grapefruits. There is a grapefruit-pith texture that goes from acid structure to tannin structure, firm and steely. It’s a great little drink that nails a sweet spot between varietal expression, approachability and complexity.”

 

2023 Eminence ‘Whitlands High Plateau’ Pinot Meunier, King Valley $42 RRP

Gillespie and Bolton chose this wine for their top six wines on the day. Gillespie saw “a kaleidoscopic nose of spice, blood orange and melted Allen’s Red Frogs. The palate is all juicy ripe cherries cut with tart pomegranate juice acidity. White pepper flickers through damp leaves and forest floor. Complex and shifting, like a lolly bag dropped in the bush and left to dream and dissolve.” Bolton said, “an amber orange colour perks my interest to see where this wine will lead. And instantly I’m taken to the pink fruit spectrum – sweet watermelon, musk stick lollies, confected raspberries. Whole-bunch, whole-bunch, whole-bunch! A mouthwatering acid line is complemented with some subtle leesy reduction that rounds out the palate. Hints of zesty orange peel blend with cinnamon spice. A very thought-provoking wine.”

 

2025 Barwon Ridge ‘Dusty Miller’ Pinot Meunier, Geelong $60 RRP

McGuinness selected this wine among his top six wines from the tasting, describing it as “richer and deeper than many in the lineup, showcasing dark, fully mature cherries with a subtle cardamom and cinnamon spice on the finish. A broad, comforting profile makes it ideal from afternoon into early evening – an all-day wine. But not all restricted by constraints! This is food-friendly and versatile without being tied to any single style of pairing. But honestly this can be enjoyed in almost all settings, which is why it tops my list. Snacks – sorted. Cheese or meats – sorted. A light meal or a heavy meal – sorted. Need I say more? Just get out and enjoy life with this wine!”

 

2025 Hentyfarm Pinot Meunier, Henty $38 RRP

Peppiat and Parton included this wine in their top six wines of the day. Peppiat described it as “all about quiet confidence and easy charm. The nose is subtle and inviting, with pretty red fruits, a touch of spice, and a faint earthy whisper that hints at more to come. On the palate, it’s juicy and supple, bursting with raspberry, cherry, and a flicker of cranberry tartness, all carried on a light, silky frame. There’s a savoury hum underneath that keeps it grounded, giving the wine just enough seriousness to balance its playful side. It’s bright, effortless, and totally delightful – the kind of wine that disappears faster than you expect because it’s simply that enjoyable to drink.” Parton said, “ruby-red in colour with impressive depth, this wine opens with an inviting smoky char from well-judged oak integration. The palate is vibrant and energetic, bursting with juicy red fruits, crushed strawberries and bright cranberry notes, complemented by a subtle musk stick confectionary lift. Fresh acidity drives the wine beautifully, while a lightly phenolic, chewy texture adds structure and complexity. Youthful and full of vitality, it shows excellent potential for further development with time in bottle.”

 

2025 Fleet ‘Lichen – Whitlands’ Pinot Meunier, King Valley $38 RRP

Peppiat and Bolton selected this wine among their top six wines from the blind tasting. Peppiat described it as “pure joy in a glass – all juicy red berries, plum skin, and a hint of spice that make you smile before the first sip. On the palate, it’s bright and bursting with life, full of crunchy cherries and a playful pop of acidity that keeps things humming along. Light on its feet but with just enough texture to give it shape, it’s vibrant, easy-going, and totally irresistible. Think of it as pinot noir’s cheeky cousin – less serious, more fun, but every bit as charming.” Bolton said, “concentration and fruit purity are two things that I’m always looking for in a wine – and this wine has oodles of both. Bright, crunchy red fruits – redcurrants, raspberries, tart blueberries, and the classic meunier hints of orange citrus, zest, and peel. Dark tarry oak sits behind the fruit, and I’m reminded of tangy cola lollies. A light body, with grippy fine-grained tannins. Don’t let the light ruby colour lure you into a false sense that this wine will be delicate – it packs a punch!”

 

2025 Poppelvej ‘Dancing In The Doldrums’ Pinot Meunier, Adelaide Hills $35 RRP

O’Kane and Gillespie included this wine in their top six picks from the tasting. O’Kane said, “another nod to the Jura here perhaps? What lovely fun – puts a smile on my face. The aromas have an undertone of the expected red cherries, currants and cranberries but also notes of gooseberry and oregano, which show their face as you drink them also. The fresher notes are more poulsard in nature – think alpine herbs. There may be a lick of volatility here, but it lifts the wine and brings along with it all those fresh berry flavours. Another wine that won’t be for everyone – but for those it speaks to, it will spark immediate joy.” Gillespie described “tart cherry juice followed by ripe strawberry and a flood of bright, juicy fruit that feels wonderfully unrestrained. There’s a sunny generosity to it, but not without structure: tannins cling like hibiscus tea, drying but ties a floral note through it. Think of a late afternoon with a picnic rug kicked crooked in the grass, and somebody has just pulled this out of an esky. Bright, generous, and really quite lovely. There have been some more ‘serious’ wines in the line-up, and this is not one of them – and honestly, good on the maker for keeping it fun.”

 

2025 Rouleur ‘Strawberry Fields – Whitlands’ Pinot Meunier, King Valley $38 RRP

McGuinness chose this wine for his top six wines on the day, describing it as “surprisingly full-bodied for a pinot meunier, with notable length that is belied by its light red color. The restrained nose conceals a rich palate of ripe red fruits such as cherry, plum, and overripe nectarine, lifted by savory spices and herbs like rosemary and basil that extend the finish. It’s almost silky in texture, with alcohol that gives it weight and drive without overpowering – robust, and very tasty on its own. Deliciously expressive, it would reward both casual sipping and thoughtful pairing.”

 

2025 Nomads Garden ‘Evans Vineyard’ Pinot Meunier, King Valley $27 RRP

O’Kane and Parton selected this wine among their top six wines from the tasting. O’Kane said, “there’s once again cranberries, slightly underripe strawberries and supple raspberries in this glass and also with a slightly confected note. To drink, this wine is crunchy and sappy. The acidity makes you salivate and crave for food. Pomegranate seeds popping in your mouth with white strawberries and some plumpness from a tart plum fleshing out the mid palate. There is enough to fill your mouth, excite the taste buds and leave you with an impression after you’ve finished. The chalky tannins make you crave the next sip, and reach for a fancy chicken salad or a crispy pork banh mi! A great example of what you might expect from a still wine made from pinot meunier.” Parton said, “ruby-red in colour with excellent density, this wine reveals an alluring aromatic profile of subtle char, cherry cola and ripe blue fruits, layered with dark spice notes reminiscent of cracked black pepper, toasted fennel seed, clove and a touch of cardamom. The palate is layered and complex, showcasing a serious expression of fruit. Brooding spice characters and smartly handled oak bring depth and sophistication, while the wine’s balance and concentration carry through to a long, refined finish.”

 

2025 Ghost Rock Estate Pinot Meunier, North-West (Tasmania) $45 RRP

Parton included this wine in his top six wines of the day, describing it as “higher-toned red in the glass, showing the brightness and freshness of this wine. Potent confected raspberry, red liquorice, cranberry, and candied strawberry fill the nose. These characters flow through the palate, but weighted by blonde vanilla oak which allows the wine to be tightly led in to a moreish and salivating finish. This meunier is perfectly balanced between its lightness and density – showing the brightness of the variety while still expressing its many layers.”

 

2024 Ros Ritchie Pinot Meunier, Upper Goulburn/King Valley $35 RRP

Hemmings chose this wine for her top six wines from the blind tasting, describing “a distinctly red-orange hue in the glass that suggests development and savoury complexity rather than just straight-up primary fruit. The nose is fascinating to me – it has this aroma of mechanic’s workshop, engines, petrol, oil, and warm metal to it that is so nostalgic to me. Then there’s toasted marshmallow and layers of Morello cherry, baked blood plum and macerated strawberry gradually pushing through underneath. It’s unusual, but compelling. The palate pulls things back into focus with the signature juicy fruit presence that meunier is known for, in this case wrapped in gentle oak spice. There’s something almost Sangiovese-like about this wine’s shape and savouriness. This wine feels like it understands restraint. It doesn’t scream for attention, but it slowly builds intrigue as you sit with it.”

 

2025 Rymill ‘PM’ Pinot Meunier, Coonawarra $30 RRP

McGuinness selected this wine among his top six wines on the day, saying, “firm tannins frame a long, expressive palate of ripe red fruits – soft cherries – lifted by pepper and five‑spice that persist on and on. Medium‑bodied and supremely drinkable pinot meunier, with a deep red hue and alcohol that elevates structure without dominating. Conventional rather than natural, yet surprisingly balanced and appealing especially those that want some more vibrancy to their pinot meunier. An excellent wine that wouldd be versatile with food – elegant, focused, and remarkably age-worthy in cellar.”

 

2024 M. & J. Becker Wines Pinot Meunier, Tumbarumba $40 RRP

O’Kane included this wine in her top six picks from the tasting, describing it as “another unique interpretation of the variety. This wine plays off the fresh red fruit characters of the variety and has cooked it up with some thai herbs and spices ending up with a savoury, hot and sour South-East Asian soup kind of vibe, alongside an almost sesame oil–like aroma. The strawberries, red plum and pomegranate all feel a little riper and a little juicier, both in aroma and flavour, which gives the wine a solid base to layer its interesting, slightly wacky savoury flavours and aromas on top – think fresh red chilli spice, Vietnamese mint, lemongrass and, yes, sesame oil.”

 

2025 John Gehrig Wines Pinot Meunier, King Valley $30 RRP

Gillespie chose this wine for their top six wines from the blind tasting, saying, “this wine immediately reminded me of the pomegranate juice you get at the supermarket. A deep, inky purple with a brooding edge, this dives straight into that pomegranate juice–like intensity … tart, dark pomegranate fruit flavour wrapped in firm and assertive tannins. Bone dry – no sugar in the mix to ease the tension – with five-spice and wet leaves curling through it. Tasting this wine feels like slipping into the shadowy heart of a rainforest creek where you can’t see the bottom – a compelling ride.”

 

2024 Yering Farm Wines ‘Traitors Gate’ Pinot Meunier, Yarra Valley $30 RRP

Peppiat included this wine in her top six wines of the day, describing it as “bright and bouncy – this pinot meunier is all red cherries and tart cranberries, bursting with crunchy, mouthwatering energy. It’s got that pink-skin red apple vibe – crisp, fresh, and just the right amount of tang. The acidity runs long and sleek, keeping the wine lively from start to finish, while every sip feels zippy, juicy, and utterly moreish. It’s playful and precise all at once – the kind of wine that makes ‘just one more glass’ feel inevitable.”

 

The backstory

Pinot meunier is closely related to pinot noir – in fact, it’s a botanically complicated mutation of pinot noir – but it hasn’t yet received the same plaudits. It was once the most widely planted grape variety in Champagne, yet until relatively recently all of the garlands there went to the glamour couple of chardonnay and pinot noir. And that traditional use in Champagne explains why a surprising amount of the variety was planted in Australia for sparkling wine production. But meunier has more to offer than simply being a blending component. A small but dedicated band of producers craft delicious still red wines from this unheralded grape variety – and as climate change wreaks havoc with finicky pinot noir, pinot meunier’s advantages in the vineyard are becoming ever clearer. Is it pinot meunier’s time to shine?

Strictly speaking, pinot meunier isn’t a distinct grape variety – it’s a ‘chimeric’ mutation of pinot noir, possessing an the outer layer of cells that is genetically distinct to the inside of the plant. This mutation likely occurred through the process of vegetative reproduction – propagating vines from cuttings, rather than growing them from seed – with the consequence that new plants grown from cuttings of this mutation possess the same chimerism. Pinot noir is by no means the only grape variety where such chimeras can be found – some clones of merlot, for example, were recently discovered to be chimeras – but pinot meunier stands out as a unique example of a chimera because of the radical difference between the external layer of cells and the internal layer.

Above: The ‘pixie grape’ – a dwarf grapevine originally cultivated from the external cell layer of pinot meunier. Opposite: Pinot meunier on the vine at Best’s, in the Great Western subregion of the Grampians.

The word meunier is the French for ‘miller’ – its use in the name is a nod to the fine white hairs that are present on the underside of pinot meunier’s leaves, which resemble a dusting of flour. (For similar reasons, it was historically known as ‘miller’s burgundy’ in Australia.) The cause of that hairiness was a mystery until relatively recently, when CSIRO researchers Paul Boss and Mark Thomas discovered that pinot meunier’s external cell layer is immune to the signals sent by a plant hormone called gibberelic acid, which helps to regulate plant growth and also controls production of those hairs. Cells from this outer layer were cultivated and grown into a (non-chimeric) grapevine – which turned out to be a dwarf vine with abundant white hairs on its leaves. (This miniature version is now available as an ornamental plant, known as the ‘pixie grape’.) Therefore pinot meunier as we know it is essentially two vines in one – regular pinot noir on the inside, and a miniature, hairy mutation of pinot noir on the outside, which explains why pinot meunier vines tend to be somewhat more compact than pinot noir.

 

The workhorse of Champagne

The differences between pinot noir and pinot meunier extend beyond mere hairiness and plant size. It tends to bud later than pinot noir and also ripen earlier – which makes it a more reliable grape variety in cooler climates, where it’s more likely to avoid the perils of spring frosts on its flowering. By avoiding issues at flowering, more berries are brought to maturity – and with earlier ripening, there’s less chance of issues at harvest. It tends to retain good acidity, too, while also being able to achieve similar sugar levels (and therefore alcohol content) to pinot noir. It typically has lower tannin levels in its fruit than pinot noir, and its flavours tend to skew a little lighter and brighter, typically staying in the red berry spectrum. All of these virtues make it supremely well suited to the Champagne region in France – a historically cool and marginal climate where spring frosts are an issue and ripeness hasn’t always been guaranteed for chardonnay and pinot noir. 

Opposite: The picture-postcard village of Gueux in Champagne – the home of Jérôme Prévost, whose cult 100% pinot meunier Champagne ‘Les Beguines’ has changed attitudes towards the variety. (Photo by ChristiaanPR, CC BY-SA-3.0.) Above: Francis and Clemence Egly of Egly-Ouriet – another label that champions pinot meunier.

Pinot meunier has therefore long been the workhorse of Champagne – a reliable producer in the more difficult years, and on the cooler north-facing slopes, ripening more reliably and earlier, while retaining nervy acidity at good sugar levels. It was not traditionally seen to have the regal cast of pinot noir, nor the grace of chardonnay, but it was essential for bringing wine to bottle. Historically, this reliability made it one of the most-planted varieties not only within Champagne but across France full stop, with pinot meunier occupying significant vineyard space across the north of the country. That contribution has been diminished over time, but it still is one of the country’s more heavily planted varieties – the success of Champagne sees to that. Yet while most famous Champagne houses employ meunier – with icons such as Krug championing its virtues – its input to the average bottle of Champagne remains anonymous to all but the most well-trained palates. The website for the Comité Champagne (the region’s official wine governing body) gives an insight into how most Champenois have typically viewed the variety – pinot noir “endows Champagne wines with body, punch and structure”, chardonnay brings “floral, citrus and sometimes mineral notes”, while pinot meunier merely “adds roundness to Champagne wines” (and, as a footnote, its wines “tend to age more quickly than wines made from the other two grape varieties”). 

“Pinot meunier adds roundness to Champagne wines. It produces supple, fruity wines with distinctive aromas of yellow fruits which tend to age more quickly than wines made from the other two grape varieties.”

Pinot meunier has, however, been bottled as a standalone cuvée more and more frequently, with some producers focusing on it entirely. These are mainly grower-producers (récoltant-manipulant in French), makers that only work with their own estate-grown fruit, rather than the major houses, who assemble their wines from vast networks of growers to achieve consistent blends. For a small grower who only has pinot meunier vines or meunier-dominant plantings and wants to make wine only from their own vines … well, that means it will be all meunier, or meunier-dominant. Though many of these Meunier-heavy Champagnes came about as the product of necessity, the results have been somewhat spectacular – upending the conventional Champenois wisdom that meunier is best used as the vinous equivalent of Spakfilla. The most celebrated of these is undoubtedly Jérôme Prévost of Champagne La Closerie, whose 100% meunier bottling ‘Les Beguines’ remains the benchmark of what the variety can achieve. Other standard-bearers include Egly-Ouriet with their ‘Les Vignes de Vrigny’, Chartogne-Taillet with ‘Les Barres’, and José Michel et Fils, the first producer to have a 100% meunier wine accepted into the exclusive Club Trésors de Champagne. The major houses are starting to twig on, too, with Gosset introducing their ‘Grand Blanc de Meunier’ in 2018. Meunier has long been viewed as the region’s vilain petit canard – its ugly duckling – but thanks to the work of these grower-producers it is slowly emerging as a graceful swan.

 

An Australian twist

Outside of Champagne, and of sparkling wine in general, meunier has taken the lead in few places. It crops up in Germany, and to a limited degree in Switzerland, typically making quite simple wines, almost rosé-like in their lack of intensity. New-world plantings are predominantly made for sparkling production, emulating the Champagne blend. Australia’s history with this variety, however, is very different – in fact, we have one of the few real lineages of meunier as a grape for still red wine production, and one almost entirely attributed to Great Western stalwart Best’s. 

Above: The ‘nursery block’ at Best’s Concongella vineyard, where the world’s oldest pinot meunier vines – amongst other viticultural treasures – can be found. Opposite: Ben Thomson of Best’s, the current custodian of these precious vines.

Pinot meunier first came to Australia under the name ‘black cluster’, likely as early as the 1790s – it was historically a common sight in English gardens, so would have been an early candidate for planting – and definitively by 1817, when it was imported by John Macarthur (who was by then already infamous for his role in the Rum Rebellion). Those early importations became the basis of plantings near Geelong by Swiss immigrants, who pioneered viticulture in region. The most famous of these, the Suisse Vineyard, now known as Neuchâtel, was established in the 1840s, and was one of the largest contributors to winegrowing in the Geelong region, until it was wiped out by phylloxera by the 1890s. (A lone surviving chasselas vine – an indigenous Swiss variety – still crosses the doors of the historic stables, more ornament than anything else, but an important relic of Geelong’s early viticultural history nonetheless.) Best’s sourced cuttings from one of these vineyards in the 1850s, planting their pinot meunier vines at Concongella in 1867 and expanding them in 1868. It is not known if Best’s cuttings came from the Suisse Vineyard specifically, but given the importance of and size of Suisse, it’s not unlikely.

Above: Five decades of Best’s pinot meunier – a tasting held by Young Gun of Wine and Leibherr.

Those 1867 and 1868 pinot meunier vines are still standing at Best’s – they’re now the oldest pinot meunier vines in the world, and part of the great repository of viticultural history that is at Best’s. Amongst those original ‘nursery block’ plantings there are some thirty-nine varieties in the ground, some of which remain unidentified to this day. The world’s oldest dolcetto vines are likewise at Best’s, and the entire block serves as a bank of genetic information used by vine researchers the world over to help untangle mysteries such as the origin of riesling. At the urging of a young Viv Thompson, Best’s bottled their first still red wine made entirely from pinot meunier in 1967, just as those first vines in the nursery block were turning 100 years old. That wine, now known as Best’s ‘Old Vine’ Pinot Meunier, has since become arguably the world’s most significant mono-varietal pinot meunier made as a still red wine – and one that, contrary to the received wisdom of the Champenois, can age very well indeed.

 

The viticulture conundrum

Until relatively recently, that Best’s bottling was a complete outlier in Australian wine. And today, the pinot meunier grown in Australia is still largely earmarked for sparkling production. Wine Australia’s Annual Vintage Report registers 781 tonnes of pinot meunier crushed in 2025, with the bulk coming from (in descending order of contribution) Tasmania, the King Valley, the Yarra Valley and the the Adelaide Hills – all regions that make a fair bit of sparkling wine. But while we’re a long way from ploughing a deep furrow with pinot meunier in Australia, there are now enough notable bottlings – from makers ranging from the established to the avant-garde – around these days to make it more than simply a vinous oddity.

Michael Downer from Murdoch Hill winery
Opposite: Winemaker Michael Downer of Murdoch Hill. Above: The vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley subregion that was, until 2021, the source of Murdoch Hill’s pinot meunier fruit.

One of the producers that isn’t making a varietal pinot meunier, despite his best efforts, is Michael Downer of Murdoch Hill. Downer, who worked at Best’s before returning to the family business of Murdoch Hill, had two Murdoch Hill pinot meuniers in our first Deep Dive into the variety seven years ago, but he hasn’t been able to make wine from meunier since 2021. The vineyard he sourced from changed hands, and he hasn’t been able to find an alternative meunier source with the quality characteristics he’s chasing – because meunier vineyards are almost all viticulturally managed with the intent for sparkling wine production. “It was a beautiful vineyard with mature old meunier vines, on lean soils that restricted the yield and made some fabulous pinot meunier,” says Downer. “I explored other vineyards, but they never quite had the depth of fruit and structure that I was seeing from that previous vineyard site.” He continues, “The other growers I went to were pushing yields and it wasn’t sitting right with me. We have toyed with the idea of putting some of our own meunier vines in our vineyards.”

“It comes down to winemakers having a hand in viticulture to make sure the fruit is destined to make a dry red, rather than just going, ‘There’s a sparkling vineyard with a bit of pinot meunier there – let’s pick that and try and make a wine out of it’.”

This illustrates the conundrum for meunier as a still red wine: while there are significant plantings of the variety with old vines and their deep roots that are typically treasured for wines that transmit a sense of terroir, it’s almost all destined for sparkling wine, where the viticultural approach is different to that of quality red winegrowing. The yields for growers are greater for sparkling wines; grapes are picked earlier; labour is less intensive. Downer argues, “To make it into a dry red requires a specialist producer to have their hand in the viticulture side of things to make sure the yield’s not too big; the picking decisions are made correctly; the hand labour of shoot thinning to open the canopy and get more sunlight onto the fruit … all these viticultural elements to get pinot meunier to ripen and have depth of flavour of fruit and structure to make a beautiful free-flowing expression.” He adds, “I really think it comes down to winemakers having a hand in viticulture to make sure the fruit is destined to make a dry red, rather than just going, ‘There’s a sparkling vineyard with a bit of pinot meunier there – let’s pick that and try and make a wine out of it’.”

 

Meunier’s true colours shining through

This difficulty is compounded by the fact that, on the consumer side, it’s hard to market a red meunier for the same prices that pinot noir can command. “The viticultural challenge for making meunier as a red wine is competing with sparkling wine production,” Downer says. “You could say the same thing for chardonnay and pinot noir, but then down the line, meunier’s potential price is probably a little bit limited when selling bottled wine to consumers. Most meunier is seen as a fun, light- to medium-bodied, fruity dry red … you probably don’t have the capacity to achieve pinot noir prices at the top end.” This makes pinot meunier an attractive proposition for consumers who have been priced out of the market for (well-made) Australian pinot noir, with most bottlings available for $30–50, but that price cap may also limit the ability for winemakers to craft more serious examples that can shift the narrative of meunier being a more light-on and fruity version of pinot noir. (Only one Australian example currently exceeds $100 retail – which is, as you might expect, Best’s ‘Old Vine’.)

“Meunier’s potential price is probably a little bit limited when selling bottled wine to consumers. Most meunier is seen as a fun, light- to medium-bodied, fruity dry red – you probably don’t have the capacity to achieve pinot noir prices at the top end.”

Viticultural conditions in Australia’s cooler regions may change that narrative, though. Global warming is not simply about regions getting hotter – the lived experience of winegrowers tells a more nuanced story of climate chaos, with extreme weather events of all sorts occurring throughout the growing season. Severe frosts early in the season, when pinot noir is flowering, are a real concern throughout Australia’s cooler regions – as are extreme heat events and bushfires at the other end of the season, when picking. Because pinot meunier buds later than pinot noir, it’s more likely to avoid the frosts that might otherwise devastate yields – and because it can be taken off the vine earlier with full flavour ripeness, it’s more likely to avoid weather catastrophes around harvest time. That earlier flavour development also means that many producers find that it can achieve ripe flavours at lower sugar levels than pinot noir, leading to finished wines that are naturally slightly lower in alcohol – a competitive advantage in a market where boozy, high-octane wines are finding themselves out of fashion. 

Above: ‘True Colors’ by Cyndi Lauper.

And frankly, the wine world would be a bit duller if all we could drink was pinot – which is how things can feel in certain places at times. It’s almost as though Cyndi Lauper was reaching for pinot meunier when she sang, “I see your true colours, and that’s why I love you. So don’t be afraid to let them show – your true colours, true colours, are beautiful, like a rainbow.”

 

 

Above: Our expert panel gathered at the Bleakhouse Hotel, Albert Park (Melbourne).

Outtakes from the tasting

We gathered every example of Australian pinot meunier – made as a still red wine – that we could find, and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.

Our panel: Jacob Parton, winemaker, Best’s; Mem Hemmings, owner and winemaker, Meredith; Dominic Bolton, winemaker, Best’s; Tish Peppiat, sales representative, Primavera Selections; Sophie O’Kane, beverage manager and venue manager, Julie Restaurant; Blaire Gillespie, wine merchant, Natural Science Wine & Liquor; Brook McGuinness, freelance sommelier.

O’Kane kicked off the discussion by noting that the variety itself was a strong thread through all of the wines. “I feel like there’s quite a lot of varietal consistency – you could tell all of the wines were the same variety,” she said. “Especially for a variety that perhaps lots of people haven’t drunk, or are definitely less familiar with as consumers, it’s nice to be able to go, ‘Well, that’s what pinot meunier is – crunchy and sappy and light’.” She added, “Sometimes with these Deep Dives, we can get a real array of styles – and I think there were some variances in style here – but there was a clear through-line.”

Above: Sophie O’Kane. Opposite: Tish Peppiat.

Peppiat agreed, and added that this consistency extended to quality, too. “There’s a great standard that’s been set here – everyone’s really at the same bar,” she said. “I didn’t feel like there were too many where I was like, ‘Oh, this is so much better than the rest’. They were all very consistent – and I think we’ve set a great bar.”

“For a variety that perhaps lots of people haven’t drunk, or are definitely less familiar with as consumers, it’s nice to be able to go, ‘Well, that’s what pinot meunier is – crunchy and sappy and light’.”

Hemmings argued that this level of care in the making reflected the small quantity of pinot meunier fruit that has been specifically grown for still red wine production. “That’s why I think the standard is so high,” she said, “because there’s not a glut of it. I wasn’t expecting to see something that I thought was generic, boring, or mass produced, because it’s still just a small niche, or an emerging category. These all should have care, intention, and integrity behind them.” She added, “That can look lots of different ways – whether it’s commercial producers or low-intervention or whatever – but it still is going to be small-batch at this stage, from this variety.”

Above: Mem Hemmings. Opposite: Jacob Parton.

Parton argued that the line-up showed a commendable amount of restraint on the part of the makers working with the variety. “I didn’t see a whole lot of winemaking influence,” he said. “You can see a little – a bit of whole-bunch, a bit of new oak – but nothing too overpowering … no-one’s gone too crazy on it. So you can see very much that it’s in the infancy of making – no-one’s trying to just go really weird with it – which is kind of cool.”

“I wasn’t expecting to see something that I thought was generic, boring, or mass produced, because it’s still just a small niche, or an emerging category. These all should have care, intention, and integrity behind them.”

Hemmings agreed, and added that the lack of winemaking theatrics reflected the current economics of winemaking. “I’m not trying to say it’s cookie-cutter but I think the reason why there’s so much through-line – that transcends region, vintage, and climate – is because it’s a big risk, making wine,” she said. “Every bit of grape that you get in, that’s precious – especially in this current economic climate. There’s not a massive amount of meunier fruit that’s cheap enough to say, ‘Oh, let’s try and make a rosé or a still blanc de noir’.”

Above: Dominic Bolton. Opposite: Blaire Gillespie.

Peppiat wondered aloud if this would change as more growers potentially planted meunier in response to climate change, which lead to a detailed discussion of its viticultural characteristics. “Is it a fussy grape to grow, or is it quite tolerant?” Gillespie asked. “Yes and no,” Parton replied. “It’s a later bud-burst variety, so you do have a little bit of leniency with frost. And it ripens quicker, but it’s still a tight-bunch variety, very much like pinot noir – so if you get rain near harvest, you’re fucked.” He added, “With a lot of varieties in Australia, your acid drops out and your sugar goes up quite quickly. Meunier is almost the opposite. The sugar doesn’t race, but the acid’s still there – really high. So growing it is more about finding that acid-flavour balance.”

“With a lot of varieties in Australia, your acid drops out and your sugar goes up quite quickly. Meunier is almost the opposite. The sugar doesn’t race, but the acid’s still there.”

“It’s so different to pinot noir,” Bolton added. “Crop size is a big one. When it’s young, the crops are massive – bigger bunches than pinot [noir] and you get heaps of it. So you’ve got to be really onto crop management. Balancing canopies is quite a big thing as well, I found out – it just doesn’t have as many leaves. So you’ve got to really be onto the balance of your canopy to your fruit, otherwise, you end up with a pretty simple, low-concentration wine.”

Opposite: Brook McGuinness. Above: The tasting in action at the Bleakhouse Hotel, Albert Park (Melbourne). All wines tasted ‘blind’.

Parton warned that despite its viticultural advantages in a chaotic climate, pinot meunier is a variety that requires long-term investment. “We’ve got one block at Best’s that was grafted over from shiraz three years ago – that’s had mixed results,” he said. “Then we’ve got one that we planted, and we’ve only just put that into our ‘Young Vines’ table wine – that’s twelve years old. That’s the first vintage that’s actually made the grade for our still red – it just looked very generic ‘dry red wine’–like until then. So to wait that long, and back yourself that someone’s going to buy it eventually – it’s pretty huge. You can’t just do it overnight.”

“We were able to pour pinot meunier by the glass, and people were interested enough to be like, ‘Oh, this isn’t pinot, but it’s close enough. I like this – this is yum’.”

This observation lead to a robust discussion about the realities of selling still red pinot meunier – whether it sells itself, or needs to be introduced by a knowledgeable salesperson or sommelier. McGuinness argued that the word ‘pinot’ in the variety’s name made it a far easier sell than many at the table supposed. “I’ve worked at restaurants where people will just say, ‘I want a pinot’,” he said. ‘I’m like, ‘You want red or white?’ People are not saying ‘gris’; people are not saying ‘grigio’; people are not going down that road.” He added, “I recently wanted a new pinot noir to pour by the glass, and a rep came to my door and said, ‘I’ve got this pinot meunier’, and it was four dollars cheaper wholesale than the pinot. So there’s a price point difference, too. He told me, ‘Brook, nobody’s gonna know the difference’. And it was delicious – so I put it on.”

Above and opposite: The tasting in action at the Bleakhouse Hotel, Albert Park (Melbourne). All wines tasted ‘blind’.

Gillespie argued that pinot noir and pinot meunier aren’t exactly interchangeable, but that the right venue can help sell the virtues of meunier to guests. “We had a moment when we were pouring both, because we can,” they said. “We’re a small bottle shop in the suburbs that does weird stuff. So we were able to pour pinot meunier by the glass, and people were interested enough to be like, ‘Oh, this isn’t pinot, but it’s close enough. I like this – this is yum’.” They added, “But when you see them side by side you can see how different they are as well. So it’s funny that people would say, ‘Oh, I still like this,’ but when you put them side-by-side, they’re very different.”

“It’s not unfamiliar to people – it’s not that much of a hand-sell,” Peppiat concluded. “People can point to it and pronounce it, too. I think that goes a long way.”

Above and opposite: The tasting in action at the Bleakhouse Hotel, Albert Park (Melbourne). All wines tasted ‘blind’.

The Panel

Jacob Parton is the current winemaker at Best’s Great Western. Hailing from the cool-climate wine region of Orange in New South Wales, he began working in vineyards at the age of fourteen. He moved to Sydney to begin an electrical apprenticeship before returning home to Orange, where he was offered a maintenance position at Philip Shaw Wines. After a few months, he joined the vintage team for the 2016 harvest, and instantly fell in love with the industry. He worked a further five vintages with Philip Shaw Wines under the tutelage of Nadja Wallington and the Shaw family. After completing his degree in oenology, Jacob spent a vintage in California’s Sonoma Coast, before joining Best’s Great Western as an assistant winemaker in late 2021, before taking the mantle of winemaker in 2023. He has a love for all things outdoors, is an avid basketball fan and player, and can often be found cooking, drinking good wine and cheering on his beloved St Kilda at the AFL.

Mem Hemmings is the owner of and winemaker for the label Meredith. Originally from England, she moved to Australia in 2014, and joined the team at Three Blue Ducks in Bronte shortly afterwards. There she discovered a passion for authentic and sustainable beverages – and a two-day stint in a winery during harvest cemented her desire to work as a winemaker. She pursued a bachelor’s degree in viticulture from Charles Sturt University while working at Mary’s and Bloodwood in Sydney’s inner west, before commencing a mentorship with Mike Bennie through Women in Hospitality’s Mentor Program. This lead to her role on the opening team at P&V Wine & Liquor Merchants, where she went on to lead the education arm of the business, holding masterclasses and developing original content alongside growers, producers, and importers. She has worked as a winemaker at Limus, M. & J. Becker, and Frankly, This Wine Was Made by Bob, and has worked a vintage in Kakheti, Georgia, with Gogo Wines. She launched her label, Meredith, with the 2022 vintage, and currently works as the group beverage and training manager for Three Blue Ducks. 

Dominic Bolton is the current operations winemaker at Best’s Great Western. Born in Zimbabwe and raised in New Zealand from the age of six,  developed an appreciation for wine as a teenager, when his family moved to the Hawke’s Bay, one of New Zealand’s premier wine regions. Growing up in a rural community fostered a strong connection to agriculture and the land, which ultimately led to a career in winemaking. He completed his Bachelor of Viticulture and Oenology at Lincoln University before gaining experience across a range of  New Zealand’s best wineries, including Kumeu River, Pegasus Bay, and Trinity Hill. A passion for learning and exploring diverse wine styles has since taken him around the world, working vintages throughout France, the United States, Australia, South Africa, and England, before landing his current role at Best’s.

Sophie O’Kane fell in love with wine through side-hustle hospitality roles while doing a full-time desk job, then decided to pursue her passion for the subject. Since then, she has completed the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Level 3 Award in Wines, worked as a sales representative for natural wine importer Vivant Selections, and as a wine buyer for Manzé (North Melbourne) and Bar Thyme (Footscray). She is currently Beverage Manager and Head Sommelier at Julie Restaurant and Cam’s Kiosk (Abbotsford), where she has a particular passion for championing small-scale producers and representing women in wine, anbd has commenced studying for the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines.

Blaire Gillespie is a Queensland hospitality veteran of seventeen years, wearing many hats including venue management, off- and on-premise wine retail, chef, and owner/operator of a small suburban bistro. After closing their venue during COVID, they went to private contract cheffing, winding up in regional Queensland wineries and becoming curious about wine production. They went on to attend Charles Sturt University, enrolling in a Bachelor of Wine Business and getting their Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) Level 2 Award in Wines (with distinction) and a forklift licence before moving to Melbourne, open for whatever the next chapter in the wine industry might be. They currently work as the manager at Natural Science Wine & Liquor in Blackburn, and spend most of their shifts converting pinot gris drinkers to grüner veltliner while waxing lyrical about the importance of supporting Australian wine.

Brook McGuinness views every experience – especially with wine – as an opportunity. His hospitality career began in fish-and-chip shops and progressed through pubs, casinos, cafés, restaurants, and bars. He’s been fortunate to work in notable venues such as Lui Bar, The Mitre Tavern, Transit Rooftop, Neptune Food and Wine, and Marameo – each contributing to his development in wine service and hospitality. From tasting and staff training to purchasing and direct sales, these responsibilities have been deeply rewarding and have shaped his passion for wine. Sharing that enthusiasm with colleagues and guests has amplified that experience. He is inspired by the human stories behind winemaking and how a bottle of wine, once opened, enhances the entire dining experience.

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