Aphelion
Rob Mack (2018’s Young Gun) founded Aphelion with his wife Louise Rhodes in 2014 with a single tonne of grenaches berries. Unusually, Mack divided this meagre harvest into thirds, making a barrel of each while highlighting different winemaking techniques. That first foray was about experimentation, but the principle has stuck, with subtle method differences underscoring the grenache expressions. The pair’s journey actually began over a bottle of Barolo on a P&O Cruise (both there with their mothers, too) in 2005, which saw both a human and a vinous passion develop. Mack continued on his more sensible road as an accountant for Deloitte in Sydney, before the whispering of the Vale lured him back, with work for others leading to that first frugal harvest. The heart of the operation is grenache still, with a shiraz and a mataro, plus a blend of the three, alongside a sagrantino and a pair of chenin blancs.
Ph: 0404 390 840
W: aphelionwine.com.au
Bekkers
Toby Bekkers was the viticulturist behind converting the significant vineyard holdings of McLaren Vale’s Paxton family to certified biodynamic farming. This was no mean feat over a couple of hundred acres, and one that many thought couldn’t be done. Having proven not only that it could, but that it resulted in more seamless management, he set out on his own with his wife, Emmanuelle. She hails from Toulon, on France’s Mediterranean coast, and studied winemaking at Montpellier. Her work took her to Australia and across France, where she still travels each year for vintage. The pair focus on McLaren Vale’s strongest suits, leading with grenache, then syrah and a blend of the two. They also turn out a Premier Cru Chablis, sourced from Emmanuelle’s friend who she helps each vintage. The reds are pinnacle expressions, melding European sensibilities with local typicity.
A: 212-220 Seaview Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171
Ph: 0408 807 568
W: bekkerswine.com
Bondar
Andre Bondar and his wife Selina started Bondar wines in 2012 with a tonne or two of shiraz grapes picked by family and friends. Those humble beginnings have since seen them take over the legendary Rayner vineyard, a source of some amazing bottles of wines over the years from various makers. Andre had worked at Alain Graillot in the Northern Rhône prior, as well as spending much of his career at Nepenthe, in the Adelaide Hills; a couple of years at Mitolo shored up his knowledge of and solidified his appreciation for the Vale. The range here dips towards “wines that are lighter, brighter, more savoury, structured and intriguing.” There are nods to the new Vale, with fiano and nero d’avola featuring, as well as classic varieties, both solo and in blends.
A: Cnr Twentyeight and Chalk Hill Rds, McLaren Vale SA 5171
Ph: 0417 888 553
W: bondarwines.com.au
Brash Higgins
Brad Hickey was a celebrated New York sommelier until a working trip to South Australia lured him from the bright lights for good. After a stint with Chris Ringland, in 2007, Hickey eventually settled in McLaren Vale, where he met his future partner, Nicole Thorpe, amongst the vines. The pair now make wine under the Brash Higgins (his pseudonym for dodging visa issues) label from Thorpe’s family vineyard. Supplementing the existing vines, they planted nero d’avola in 2009 and also source fruit from other Vale growers and from the Riverland. In addition to their typically lo-fi offerings, the pair also make wine in amphora, both as components and also for their dedicated Amphora Project range.
A: Cnr Malpas Rd and California Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171
Ph: (08) 8556 4237
W: brashhiggins.com
Ministry of Clouds
Before venturing out on their own, Bernice Ong and Julian Forwood made significant careers for themselves selling other people’s wine, working with such iconic labels as Wirra Wirra, Yalumba and Moët Hennessy. The lure of the land was too great, though, and they set up their McLaren Vale operation in 2012. Although the focus is firmly in the Vale, they source and produce wines from key regions, too, such as Tasmania and the Clare Valley. An intimate knowledge of both the vineyards and the history of McLaren Vale underpins their ability to source characterful fruit from great sites, working both with traditional varieties and some less so, like tempranillo, carignan and mencia. The style here is very respectful of local tradition, but with a much lighter hand, and a food-friendly, old-world sensibility.
A: 765 Chapel Hill Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171
Ph: 0417 087 023
W: ministryofclouds.com.au
Pannell Enoteca
It seems odd to call Stephen Pannell among the new wave, but he is substantially changing the face of McLaren Vale like few others. From the Pannell family of Moss Wood and Picardy fame, Steve scaled the loftiest peaks of large-scale winemaking, heading up the then monolith of Hardys as Chief Winemaker. He oversaw production across the country, before pulling the pin to focus on his own ground-up endeavour. Steve makes elegant renditions of stalwart varieties, as well as exploring blends built around Spanish, Italian and Portuguese grapes. Under the Pannell Enoteca banner, comes three ranges: ‘S.C. Pannell’, his original label, with fruit sourced from various growers across regions; ‘Koomilya’, which is the vineyard that he won his first Jimmy Watson (he’s got two) from, and now owns – these are perhaps his pinnacle expressions; and ‘Protero’, his Adelaide Hills vineyard where nebbiolo is the star variety. The cellar door is a must, too.
A: 60 Olivers Rd, McLaren Vale SA 5171
Ph: (08) 8323 8000
W: pannell.com.au
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