In the heart of Western Victoria, Ben Luker’s Meredith label emerges as a reflection of his rich and varied journey in the wine industry. With a background that spans an array of roles, from restaurant service to in-depth wine research, Luker’s foray into winemaking is a testament to his deep-seated passion for the craft. The 2023 debut of Meredith, from the 2023 vintage, is not just a milestone for Luker but an ode to Western Victoria. His approach is unmistakably ‘punter-friendly,’ emphasizing low-fi winemaking that underscores the intrinsic qualities of varietal riesling and grenache, with the Meredith lineup complimented by a rosé and pét-nat.
Luker’s transition from various facets of the wine world to establishing his label is marked by an enlightening moment that propelled him into action. He recalls, “I had just completed a vintage in the Willamette Valley in Oregon and we were having a post-harvest dinner with the vintage team and the owners of the winery. We were going around the table saying what each of our goals were for the future. I was rambling on about wanting to do more vintages before eventually starting my own label in the future when one of the owners jumped in and said, ‘what are you waiting for?’. I came back to Australia and started the process.”
The decision to root his label in Western Victoria is born out of a deep appreciation for the region’s winegrowing potential, despite its relative obscurity. Luker notes, “Western Victoria has a great pedigree of producing great wines for a very long period of time yet flies under the radar. Compared to other regions, we have a small number of producers and growers, geographically spread out over a large distance, which means we don’t get the amount of attention we deserve.” This choice underscores Luker’s desire to spotlight the unique characteristics and untapped potential of the region’s vineyards.
Sustainability is a cornerstone of Luker’s winemaking philosophy, influencing not just his vineyard practices but extending to his choices in packaging. He is conscientious about the environmental impact of his products, choosing “the lightest available bottles for each style of glass as this constitutes roughly 30% of the carbon footprint of wine.” This decision reflects a broader commitment to sustainability that is woven into the fabric of Meredith wines, underscoring Luker’s intent to harmonize his craft with environmental stewardship.
“Western Victoria has a great pedigree of producing great wines for a very long period of time yet flies under the radar.”
Luker’s winemaking process is deeply influenced by the changing climate, prompting a focus on natural acidity and thoughtful grape selection. He elaborates: “Climate change has made me focus much more on the acid levels in picking decisions than on Baumé. Making acid-driven wines that rely on natural acidity, this drives when I decide to pick and then other winemaking decisions are simply ramifications of this initial decision.” This adaptive approach allows Luker to produce wines that are not only reflective of their terroir but also attuned to the evolving conditions of their environment.
In addition to being attuned to changing environmental conditions, Luker is also deeply attuned to the needs of the market. He recently opened a cellar door in partnership with Black Cat Truffles just outside of Ballarat to help connect with consumers. “Coming from the consumer side of the industry, I’ve always valued direct engagement with customers, so having a physical space where people can taste, learn about, and enjoy our wines has been incredibly rewarding,” he says. “However, I didn’t want just any venue – I wanted a place that enhances the experience of our wines rather than just being a standard cellar door. That’s why partnering with Liam and the team at Black Cat Truffles was such a perfect fit. Their venue is stunning, and their approach to food – showcasing the best of Western Victoria’s local produce – aligns perfectly with our philosophy on winemaking. Visitors can not only taste our wines but also enjoy food that compliments them beautifully. It’s been an incredible journey so far, and we’re excited to keep growing this experience for our guests.”
“Coming from the consumer side of the industry, I’ve always valued direct engagement with customers, so having a physical space where people can taste, learn about, and enjoy our wines has been incredibly rewarding.”
As Luker looks to the future, he remains dedicated to exploring and deepening his understanding of the varieties at the heart of his label. He muses: “I feel like I’m just scratching the surface in my understanding of riesling and grenache, so I would still love to keep exploring them each year.” To that end, he’s recently released a small-batch, limited edition grenache called Top Shelf, based on his experimentations with different winemaking techniques for that variety. Further experimentation is in the works: whole-bunch grenache “to see how it impacts structure, aromatics, and complexity,” a focus on “the interplay between acidity and sugar in our rieslings,” and “subtle tweaks in our winemaking process to enhance freshness and purity.” “It’s an exciting time for us,” Luker says, “as we get to take what we’ve learned over the past few vintages and continue refining our style while staying open to new possibilities.”
While the recent cellar door shows that Meredith is growing at an impressive rate for a young label, Luker isn’t chasing growth for its own sake. “Rather than expanding just for the sake of scale, I’d like to grow in a way that allows us to take more creative risks in our winemaking,” he says. “This could mean more limited-release wines, exploring different varieties, or experimenting with techniques that push the boundaries of our style. I see us continuing to champion grenache and riesling, two varieties that we’ve already built a strong connection with, but I’m also open to working with other varieties that thrive in our region. Western Victoria is such an underrated wine-growing area, and I’d love to help bring more attention to what’s possible here.”