Hannah’s foray into the world of wine was fortuitous, transitioning from a solid grounding in biochemistry to an impassioned pursuit of viticulture and oenology. Her dedication to understanding the intricacies of grape and soil led her to the prestigious halls of Giant Steps in the Yarra, further honed by international experiences in the Mosel and Mildura.
“While my heart will forever belong to the steep hills by the banks of the Mosel, the Yarra soothes my soul,” declares Maltby.
Since joining Mac Forbes in 2017 and stepping into the role of lead winemaker in 2019, she has embraced a philosophy that prioritizes the vineyard’s voice over the winemaker’s touch.
“I hope to see as little of my own influence in the wines as possible,” Hannah asserts. “Our role as winemakers is primarily that of custodian, helping the fruit tell its story and not covering it up with winemaking artifact. Minimal oak influence, no additions beyond SO2, gentle handling, and lots of consciously leaning into the individuality of each parcel.”
“The style of wines I am making can fluctuate with the varying seasons, as we harvest on flavour and natural acid balance, and make no additions or amendments in the cellar. While this can be a challenge, it is also a feature and helps to showcase the variability of the seasons and the changing climate in the Yarra.”
In discussing the guiding principles of her winemaking, Hannah Maltby shared a poignant piece of advice that has significantly shaped her approach: “With regards to wine style, my favourite ‘absolute’ was gifted to me by an old German grower. He told me that the worst thing you can do to a riesling is try and convince it to become a style it isn’t – ‘if he wants to be a Kabinett, he will be a Kabinett, do not waste your words telling him to become a Spatlese’. This has always stuck with me, and today renders as my overarching rule to listen to the vines and the fruit when I am making decisions.”
Her winemaking ethos shines through in her approach to the varying seasons of the Yarra, where she embraces the diversity that each year brings. “The Yarra Valley is an incredible region for cabernets varieties, however the market doesn’t seem as excited by them as I am, which presents a unique challenge. Pinot noir is certainly the most popular variety in the region, but can be a challenge in the (sometimes) soggy and unpredictable climate of the Yarra Valley. This means we sometimes have to work a little harder sorting in the vineyard, and being more watchful in the cellar to ensure clean and happy ferments,” says Maltby.
“The style of wines I am making can fluctuate with the varying seasons, as we harvest on flavour and natural acid balance, and make no additions or amendments in the cellar,” she explains. This adaptive strategy allows her wines to reflect the year’s climatic narrative authentically. “While this can be a challenge, it is also a feature and helps to showcase the variability of the seasons and the changing climate in the Yarra.”
Maltby elaborates on the practices that define Mac Forbes Wines: “All wines are made with no additions other than sulphur. Concrete fermentation vessels are used for riesling wines and select pinot noir. Red wines are unfined and unfiltered. All wines since 2020 have been packaged in either light weight/low carbon or high recycled content glass – or both! – and closed with either sustainably sourced cork – also fully compostable! – or endlessly recyclable tin screwcaps. The single vineyard series of wines are made entirely from fruit that is grown by our vineyard team with regenerative farming protocols and made in line with the sustainability philosophy that underpins the business.”
After delving into Maltby’s approach to winemaking, her commitment to the craft, particularly to one varietal, remains unwavering and succinctly encapsulates her passion and future aspirations: “I will never not make riesling!”
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