The Borenore Vineyard was planted in three stages beginning in 1997, ‘98 and ‘99, with a grafting and replanting program underway since 2014 to evolve the variety and clone mix to better suit the site and market. Cabernet is being progressively replaced with pinot noir and chardonnay in specific blocks – varieties that more naturally express the vineyard’s cool-climate character – with newer pinot noir plantings on Richter rootstock and both new pinot and chardonnay clones being introduced to build complexity in the top wines. One stylistic decision that has already been made with clarity is the removal of merlot from the Reserve range in favour of cabernet franc. “Cabernet franc has been much more distinctive – a variety that delivers better flavour and structure as we learned to carefully manage crop levels across different seasons,” says Kiely. Gewürztraminer is also being considered as an addition to the varietal palette.
The site itself is extraordinary. Sitting at 860 metres on a north-east facing slope at the foothill of Mount Canobolas – Orange’s defining extinct volcano, which peaks at 1,390 metres – the Borenore vineyard is shaped by deep volcanic basalt soils that retain little heat, releasing it quickly after sunset and producing a slow, extended ripening window. Balanced acidity and fruit power are the twin signatures of everything grown here. “Our Borenore vineyard stands out regionally with its sloping NE aspect, elevation of 860 metres, deep rich basalt at the foothill of Mt Canobolas and excellent water-holding capacity,” says Kiely. “It achieves ripe flavours and richer varietal expression at lower alcohols than some other vineyards in the region – driven by a natural vine balance and the holistic organic and biodynamic practices that are in place.” The local pruning team have their own name for the place: Arctic Hill.
“The Borenore vineyard aims to be managed sustainably through practices that encourage less reliance on outside influences,” says Kiely. “We have been actively practising biodynamics for the past 12 years with annual applications of certified preparations. It is through the use of both organic and biodynamic practices that the vineyard has become known as the flagship vineyard for our company.” The biodynamic preparation program has produced some of the vineyard’s most memorable observations. In the early days, with only enough preparation 500 to apply to 5 hectares, the decision was made to spread it on a back corner block. When 400 sheep arrived weeks later and were unloaded to graze freely, every one of them headed directly to that back block. The following year, preparation was applied only to a 10-hectare section in the middle of the vineyard. The sheep grazed only that section. “It was from these observations that the decision was made to apply the preparation to the whole property,” says Kiely – meaning not just the vines but all the non-vineyard land, treating the site as a single biological unit.
Sheep graze the whole vineyard from post-harvest until budburst each year for weed control. During the growing season, rye grass is allowed to thicken before being slashed to provide mulch between the rows, where it acts as a heat buffer in summer, reducing soil temperature and increasing water-holding capacity. Irrigation – fed from a dam collecting rainwater runoff – is applied in the afternoon to cool the soil further, reducing canopy temperature. Soil moisture probes govern all irrigation decisions to minimise water use. Organic inputs include certified fertilisers applied via fertigation and biostimulants; under-vine weed management uses a suite of mechanical tools – roll hacking (a light soil disturbance that preserves grass cover while controlling weeds), mow-and-throw (returning mulch to the vine row), discing and a multiclean machine for grass and sucker removal. The roll hacking method in particular has shown measurable results in the cabernet franc blocks: more consistent shoot growth, improved cane thickness and better fruit quality over recent seasons.
Kaolin clay is now applied to protect exposed fruit from heat damage during hot periods, particularly on riesling. Solar panels installed in 2003 offset power usage. BioScout technology – which counts fungal spores in the air and generates disease forecast models – is used to calibrate the spray program precisely, reducing prophylactic applications and improving timing. Sunscreen sprays have been introduced on earlier-ripening white varieties as an additional climate response tool. Drones are being investigated for fungicide application, with the potential to cover large areas quickly during periods when tractor movement would be too damaging to wet soils. “We believe that drones and autonomous machinery are the way of the future and the key to smart farming,” says Kiely.
The vineyard has become something of a magnet for students, says Kiely. “The vineyard welcomes students from primary school, high school and universities that have an interest in agriculture and sustainability as part of their curriculum. All activities, including mixing and applying biodynamic preparations, are demonstrated to give them a better understanding of how it works. These visits have been ongoing for 15 years and provide a wealth of information to the students.” The Eco-Vineyards program is also being implemented, with plantings of beneficial insect-attracting species established to increase biodiversity.
Kiely is candid about the learning curve that nearly three decades on the site has involved. The original spur pruning approach on vigorous Borenore soils led to cordon eutypa infection over time – an error now being systematically corrected. But the fundamental quality of the site has proven itself through every season: frost protection from the NE aspect, deep basalt soil that maintains structure and water-holding capacity without heavy fertiliser inputs, and a slow, cool ripening curve that builds flavour concentration without sacrificing acidity. “The vineyard has produced gold medals for all the varieties grown,” says Kiely. “The vineyard has produced 53 gold medals and 38 trophies, which just go to show that organic wines can hold their own.”
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