The Scarborough Wine Co. has five vineyard sites in the Hunter Valley, with the Hermitage Road Vineyard acquired in 2007. The vineyard has been lovingly revitalised from the former conventional approach by partners in life and vines Liz Riley and Jerome Scarborough, who is also the winemaker. Sustainability is the central pillar of the operation, with a push to close the loop on waste and increase biodiversity in and around the vineyard blocks. In the 15 years under their stewardship, the improvement in soil health and structure and the increase in fruit quality has been palpable. The vineyard supplies fruit for both the Scarborough and Offshoots range, as well as to some other makers.
“Our approach to vineyard management is holistic,” says Scarborough. “We need to have a resilient and diverse ecosystem to help us manage the risks that rural environments inflict. As we get older and wiser, we are increasingly aware that we need to be investing in making the vineyard resilient and to manage our vines for the longer term, not just the current season. Long-term vision with short term agility is key. Never say never, and always consider the ideas that seem out of reach.”
The vineyard was planted progressively since the 1960s to now occupy 35 hectares, and is largely planted to chardonnay, tempranillo, pinot noir, verdelho, shiraz and semillon. The site is also home to the Scarborough winery. Originally owned by the McGuigan family, it was acquired in 2007 and the winemaking operation was transferred there in 2009. Over that time, Riley and Scarborough have implemented practices that have revitalised the soil and improved the quality of the fruit.
“Local winemakers who know the site can’t believe the evolution in soil health since the initiatives we’ve been working on have been implemented.”
“Under our stewardship, the vineyard has become more resilient and consistent,” says Scarborough. “We have been working hard to get more biodiversity and ground cover in our vineyards, and the ground under our feet is now soft and bouncy – a huge difference from what we had before. The vines are responding to the improvement in soil structure and better soil water-holding capacity, with stronger and healthier canopies, greater ripening capacity and fruit quality.”
That’s not just their observation, either, with Riley saying that the one of the greatest compliments they have had about the vineyard was from a previous vineyard manager. “He commented that he could see us having breathed new life into a site that had been managed very traditionally in the past. He could see the better growth and vine health from over the fence and was heartened by the change in management philosophy and style.”
That management has seen a reduction in herbicide inputs and a focus on building biodiversity, with alternating rows seeded with mixed-species cover crops, says Riley. “Native species of grasses are starting to grow, which is attracting bees and other pollinators, as well as predatory insects that help to control the insects we don’t want in the vineyard. The grasses are also adding organic matter back into the soil, deepening root structures and improving soil health. The cover crops and swards make a bigger environment for the beneficial insects that are crucial to maintaining a healthy ecosystem.”
“Native species of grasses are starting to grow, which is attracting bees and other pollinators, as well as predatory insects that help to control the insects we don’t want in the vineyard.”
The pair are also working to close the loop on the waste streams, with a compost production system that utilises the grape marc and spent filtration earth from the winery as well as cardboard waste from the cellar door and warehouse. “We supplement this with hay we bale at another of our vineyards and local manure,” says Scarborough. “All is returned to the vineyard with additional locally made commercial compost to add organic matter and biology to the soils.”
Both Riley and Scarborough are committee members of the newly founded Hunter Valley Wine Country Landcare Group, and they have long-term plans to remediate the creek lines and bare non-vineyard land. “We share the landscape with many native animals and must continue to support them with food and shelter,” says Scarborough. “Last year we established biodiversity plots throughout our vineyards, planting Australian natives to help support the insects, arthropods and birds that provide biodiversity in our vineyard ecosystem.”
The challenges of the Hunter climate still loom large, though, with both rain and heat posing significant problems. “Our biggest challenge is undoubtedly the weather,” says Scarborough. “It’s not unusual to lurch from wet to dry, or dry to wet within the one season… You need to be agile and open to using a wide range of strategies and tools to manage the changing risks. Attention to detail and timing are everything, and being focused on this is the key to getting the crop off each season and the vines being healthy for the longer term.”
The mid-row and under-vine management contributes to mitigating climate pressure, holding moisture and acting as a cooling mechanism, while it also helps to keep the ground structure in place, facilitating access in the wet. In late 2022, however, the rain was so intense that a creative solution was sought to manage disease pressure. “So, we took to the skies and have been sporadically using helicopters to spray organic fungicides across various vineyard sites,” says Scarborough. “This helps manage our risks, biosecurity obligations and, importantly, it also helps with workplace health and safety. Vineyards are protected, tractors aren’t bogged, and it was an efficient way to ensure a crop from the 2023 harvest.”
In periods of heat and abundant sunshine, a sunscreen is applied to the grapes to avoid sunburnt fruit and support canopy efficiency. Real-time soil moisture monitoring is employed to properly target irrigation to economise on both water and energy use. That saving is enhanced by thoughtful planting and replanting, says Riley. “The use of rootstocks helps us to protect our vines from root pests and pathogens and provides us with greater water efficiency. Having diverse chardonnay sites and blocks is vitally important to help spread our harvest period to reduce the pressure on the winery when vintage is in full swing. It allows us to treat each parcel with the love and care it deserves in the winery.”
The vineyard has a lot of variation in soil types as well as altitude, which contributes to this staggering of the harvest, but they have also planted chardonnay clones that ripen at lower sugar levels, which helps to spread out the harvesting intake. And while a longer harvest isn’t always desirable when disease and weather pressure is high, Scarborough notes that the improved resilience from their management techniques mitigates this concern. “We see our vines cope better under challenging seasonal conditions, and we have a strong track record of harvesting all our fruit with it being on target for the desired end use.”
Riley, who also runs a viticulture consultancy business, and Scarborough stress that much work is yet be done, and that they are constantly learning and developing their methods. “We’re actively engaged in getting information, visiting other regions, vineyards and keeping in touch with our peers and industry colleagues,” says Scarborough. “Looking over the fence, getting out of the Valley, chatting openly about what people are doing and trying new ideas where appropriate or with tweaks to see what benefit they can bring to our business and region. …We love the collegiate nature of the Australian wine industry and the can-do attitude, it’s one of the best things about doing this job.”
That openness also sees them hosting training courses onsite in conjunction with Wine Australia. “Local winemakers who know the site can’t believe the evolution in soil health since the initiatives we’ve been working on have been implemented,” says Riley, who also notes that those working with their fruit share the enthusiasm. “Some of the winemakers have provided feedback that since we have shifted to having more vegetation and greenery in the vineyard there has been a positive shift in fruit quality and measurable attributes such as YANs [yeast assimilable nitrogen, which is essential for a healthy ferment] have lifted.”
Scarborough notes that seeing the site rejuvenated has been very rewarding. “The view is pretty special, too,” he adds. “It’s the best office ever and one of the reasons to get out of bed every day. These days we see these vines more than we do our children, so we’re grateful it’s such a special place to be. Late afternoon vineyard visits looking at the sun setting behind the Brokenback Range is our idea of a hot date!”
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