The Pooley family’s Cooinda Vale Vineyard was first planted in 1985 by Denis and Margaret Pooley as something of a retirement hobby. Those original 17 rows of vines consist of riesling and pinot noir planted on own roots. That venture continued very much as a hobby, with the wines professionally made but mostly drunk by family and friends. More meaningful plantings took place in ’98, 2000, ’13, ’18, ’20, and ’22 bringing the total area under vine to around 18 hectares – with around 6 hectares at Butcher’s Hill – though the ’22 vines are still too young to be productive. The site is planted to chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling, shiraz and pinot grigio, with nebbiolo added in the ’22 planting. Today, all the Cooinda Vale fruit ends up in estate wines, but for many years fruit was sold to premium makers. Those clients included Penfolds, who used Cooinda Vale chardonnay for around a decade as a significant inclusion in their ‘Yattarna’ bottlings.
Over that Cooinda Vale Vineyard’s lifespan, under the stewardship of John Pooley, Denis and Margaret’s son, the business grew, and to considerable acclaim. When Anna Pooley (YGOW Awards finalist, 2009 & 2014) returned to the family property, she brought with her an impressive winemaking resumé, and so did her winemaker husband Justin Bubb. That was in 2013, and with Matthew Pooley, Anna’s brother, in charge of viticulture, it was an all-family affair. With Matthew stepping up to a sales role as Pooley’s brand ambassador, the viticultural baton was passed on to Hannah McKay, who has now passed it on to Steve Ferguson.
“Sitting between 80 to 100 metre above sea level, the vineyard is tucked away in a nook of hills north of Campania, making it much more protected from prevailing weather conditions,” Ferguson says. “Being more continental, it also experiences greater extremes in temperatures, bringing more frequent frosts, snow, and heat waves. The iron-lacking grey-brown sandy loam over clay subsoils at this site tend to bring a moderate level of struggle to the vines by restricting deep root growth and water accessibility, but [this] in turn creates a wine that is more delicate and finer.”
While those temperature extremes can pose challenges, the general coolness of the site has its advantages. “The cooler conditions during much of the growing season encourage slow, steady ripening of the fruit, which helps preserve vibrant natural acidity and enhances aromatic complexity,” Ferguson says. “Meanwhile, the warm days promote the development of ripe fruit flavours, offering balance and structure. These factors combine to produce wines with exceptional clarity, elegance, and a distinct sense of place.”
Ferguson’s approach to managing the site is rational and based on observation: “We prioritise vineyard health and fruit quality through sustainable practices and continuous innovation,” he says. “Every decision, from pruning to composting, is guided by careful monitoring and data-driven insights to ensure premium fruit and environmental stewardship.” “We are committed to continuous improvement,” he adds, highlighting recent trials of drought-tolerant Paulsan 1103 rootstock and experiments in undervine management.
It all starts in those iron-poor grey-brown soils. “The vineyard follows sustainable winegrowing management practices, focusing on soil health and sustainability,” Ferguson says. “Cover crops improve soil structure and biodiversity, while herbicide use is reduced in favour of softer, more environmentally friendly inputs. Traffic management strategies minimise soil compaction, and ground cover protects the soil from erosion and maintains moisture. Minimal tillage preserves soil structure and organic matter, fostering a healthy ecosystem for vine growth.” Compost made on-site from winery pressings and woodchips is applied under the vines; weeds are mechanically removed. These improvements have reduced herbicide use by 90% – making the vineyard a healthier place for life of all kinds.
The care lavished upon the soil is given to the vines, too. “We practice bud dissection and soft pruning tailored to vine vigour, optimising growth and fruit quality,” Ferguson says. “In blocks susceptible to Botrytis or uneven ripening, bunch thinning is conducted to promote air circulation and even maturity. Soil and petiole [i.e. leaf stem] analyses throughout the year guide our nutrition program, ensuring balanced growth without over-fertilizing. Fertilisers are applied strategically based on vine phenology to minimise vegetative growth and shading.”
Biodiversity has been increased on the 40-hectare property, with native insectary plantings established to encourage beneficial insects, while the cover cropping program is part of the restorative process after many years of traditional farming. “Biodiversity is encouraged throughout the vineyard to build populations of beneficial insects and natural predators, reducing the need for chemical interventions and enhancing ecological balance,” Ferguson says. That biodiversity is enhanced by “revegetation paddocks that we have planted with a number of native species trees.”
Water use remains a pressing concern as the effects of climate change are starting to be felt even in this very cool pocket of Southern Tasmania. “Cooinda Vale Vineyard utilises a raised dripper irrigation system with the MAIT method for precise water delivery,” Ferguson says. “Moisture probes and leaf turgidity are closely monitored to determine irrigation needs, ensuring the vines receive optimal hydration. With a thorough understanding of the vineyard’s soil profiles, irrigation is applied strategically to match specific requirements, promoting vine health and efficiency.”
This precison approach is a far cry from the less technologically advanced early days of Cooinda Vale. “John Pooley talks about when Margaret Pooley managed the vineyard at Cooinda Vale,” Ferguson says. “She would wake up at midnight and head out in her Volkswagen Beetle to turn the block valves on and off.” He smiles, thinking about how far the place has come under the Pooley’s stewardship. “The immediate issues [don’t seem] so big.”
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