Nadeson and Collis first planted their Geelong region vineyard in 1996, with subsequent plantings over the years extending the area under vine to about 7 hectares. Pinot noir, chardonnay, shiraz, merlot, cabernet franc, sangiovese and gamay make up the varietal mix.
“We prefer to see ourselves as stewards of the land rather than its owners,” says Nadeson. “This is about reminding us that farming and viticulture done well is a co-operative act between humans and the environment. This ethos has not only driven environmental sustainability but also economic sustainability in our vineyard. The future of farming for our community, and our planet, is to make doing the right thing pay.”
“We use organic and biodynamic practices and principles, and we believe that this helps to build biologically diverse and healthy soils that encourage healthy mycorrhizal populations in the soil. This fungal network means that the elements that the vines uptake relate to what is present at our particular site. If things are grown conventionally – some might say hydroponically – with just water and nutrient added, then of course the vines will be productive, but they will not express the individual site.”
“Our soil has multiple layers, clay, basalt and limestone. Healthy soils ensure that vines are encouraged to grow healthy roots and penetrate these layers. As the vines can access the different layers of soil and rock, we see different characteristics in the wine. Over the years, our ‘Mietta’ Reserve Pinot Noir has changed from a highly structured brooding wine, when we believe that the vines were accessing the black clay to what we see now, which is much more the influence of limestone, making a more perfumed, aromatic and floral wine.”
In pursuit of wine quality, Nadeson says that vine health is key, and the strategies employed are both above and below ground. Above ground, they use soft pruning techniques to preserve vascular sap flow, with vines afflicted by Eutypa (a trunk disease that causes dieback of the vine) reworked rather than replaced. Only accredited biological and organic sprays are employed, and the canopies are managed to improve airflow to lower disease pressure, rather than taking a remedial approach. A permanent sward exists midrow, and under-vine weed control is mechanical.
Below ground, Nadeson has eliminated herbicides use to improve the soil, controlling under-vine weeds and preserving soil moisture by the use of heavy straw mulch. Composts are employed to develop soil structure and build organic material, while biodynamic preparations and compost teas increase bacteria and fungi. Sheep are used to graze for weed control and their manure increases the organic matter in the soil.
“We use organic and biodynamic practices and principles, and we believe that this helps to build biologically diverse and healthy soils that encourage healthy mycorrhizal populations in the soil,” says Nadeson. “This fungal network means that the elements that the vines uptake relate to what is present at our particular site. If things are grown conventionally – some might say hydroponically – with just water and nutrient added, then of course the vines will be productive, but they will not express the individual site.”
This deeper pursuit of not just vine health but site reflection in the wines is central to Lethbridge, and the long-term results are evident after 25 years of best-practice viticulture. “Our soil has multiple layers, clay, basalt and limestone,” says Nadeson. “Healthy soils ensure that vines are encouraged to grow healthy roots and penetrate these layers. As the vines can access the different layers of soil and rock, we see different characteristics in the wine. Over the years, our ‘Mietta’ Reserve Pinot Noir has changed from a highly structured brooding wine, when we believe that the vines were accessing the black clay to what we see now, which is much more the influence of limestone, making a more perfumed, aromatic and floral wine.”
Solar panels have been installed, with the winery partially powered with an 18kw array, while the water employed for irrigation is solely sourced from their dam. “Our vineyard is a windy and dry site,” says Nadeson. “This has the advantage of limiting vigour and concentrating quality yields, but it also leads to the shallow topsoil at risk of drying out. Soil moisture is retained by the use of mulch and compost application. We have seen a noticeable difference in vine health between mulched and non-mulched blocks, particularly during heat waves, where soil temperature and moisture are critical.”
Stands of old eucalypts on the property have been retained, with Nadeson saying that they have learned to live with the birds who seasonally nest there. “Leaving stands of native grass un-mowed is a part of our integrated pest management strategy. Allowing it to continue to reseed, we increase our insect diversity and ensure these grasses remain in the local environment,” he says. “We have always been proponents of environmental consciousness in our brand, living it, and breathing it. We also promote awareness by encouraging professionals from across the industry to visit us and see for themselves.”
The vineyard density is currently being increased by interplanting new vines between their old ones to foster competition in the aim of producing more complex wines. Shiraz and gamay plantings have also been increased, which Nadeson says perform well in what is a hotter region than when they first farmed it. That process of adapting to warmer seasons was begun over a decade ago, with later-ripening clones of pinot noir and chardonnay planted. This approach combined with their mulching and compost program, which increases soil hydration and reduces soil temperature, are all part of the future-proofing against climate change.
There are plans to establish insectariums by planting native pollen- and nectar-rich species for a sustainable population of insect predators to boost the pest management strategy. And while the soil is no doubt sequestering a good deal of carbon given the intensity of organic matter as evidenced by the shift in soil pH from 5.5 to 7.0, the use of biochar is being investigated to enhance this further, with the end goal being carbon neutrality.
“Our labour and cost inputs are high,” says Nadeson. “But we have a happy team of talented, dedicated people doing what they love without compromise. The wine quality and the price it can therefore receive means that our environmentally sustainable vineyard is also economically viable, and hopefully for generations to come.”
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