“My parents took a calculated risk by planting the southernmost vineyard in the Yarra Valley,” says Marks. “It’s a site that is markedly different from the rest of the valley with deep, rich red volcanic soils …with a rainfall almost 400mm per annum more than the Yarra floor and a ripening window up to a month later than the norm. They’re marginal growing conditions. Our goal has only ever been to produce wines of the highest quality with distinct character that reflects the place they are grown.”
“It’s a site that is markedly different from the rest of the valley with deep, rich red volcanic soils …with a rainfall almost 400mm per annum more than the Yarra floor and a ripening window up to a month later than the norm. They’re marginal growing conditions.”
Marks is the Gembrook Hill winemaker, but vigneron is certainly a more apt title, with much more time spent amongst the vines than in the shed. “We pride ourselves that it is the winemakers [with Shaun Thornton] who do all the work in the vineyard,” says Marks. “Every decision taken in the vineyard is made with the goal of attaining the finest example of terroir-driven wines that we are able to in any given year.”
The only contract work done at Gembrook is to remove material post pruning, de-sucker (removing small shoots so the vine’s energy is directed to growing canopy and fruit) and pick fruit. That’s a lot of work for Marks and Thornton, and the presence of Eutypa, which causes vine trunk dieback, has increased that workload by about 30 per cent.
Management of Eutypa involves avoiding large pruning cuts in winter to limit the spread of the fungal spores, but it is also about rejuvenating affected trunks. “Our program of cutting out Eutypa-affected vines over the years has been expanded to encompass the whole vineyard revitalisation task of bringing up new suckers to create new trunks on old root systems,” says Marks, noting that the advantage of maintaining the large, balanced root structures had a significant advantage for both fruit and wine quality.
Alongside that program, preparing for the almost inevitable arrival of phylloxera has made for a busy schedule testing rootstocks, but it has also resulted in some very positive outcomes. “Recent pinot plantings that were made in 2014, due to the arrival of phylloxera in the Yarra, have brought a new depth to the wines that we produce,” says Marks. “The clonal origins of our first plantings are unknown, and the wine they produce is elegant and perfumed. The introduction of MV6 on rootstock has brought a depth and tannin profile not seen before. This has allowed us blending options, which we have used to expand the range of wines that we offer.”
Marks has introduced two new wines using the original and new vine fruit, with both named after his parents, employing their initials. The ‘IJM’ Pinot is 60 per cent of the oldest vines combined with the youngest. “It’s like the snake eating its own tail – ourobos – the symbol of eternal life,” Marks says. “I describe it as a vigneron’s wine – 100% destemmed, no new oak, all about the terroir of the site. The ‘JKM’ is more a winemaker’s wine… The three Gembrook pinots come from the same tiny 5-hectare vineyard but show very different properties.”
“Every decision taken in the vineyard is made with the goal of attaining the finest example of terroir-driven wines that we are able to in any given year.”
Chicory has been planted in wetter parts of the vineyard to compete for excess moisture, while ryegrass has also been incorporated into the permanent grass sward that occupies the rows. That sward encourages beneficial insect life and with no tilling, the tractor passes and subsequent soil compaction are minimised, while carbon loss through cultivation is avoided.
“We are experimenting with different grass swards between the vine rows to see what works best at soaking up moisture in wet years and yet not competing with the vines in drier seasons,” Marks says. “We are seeing a disruption to normal patterns of weather. Hotter, drier, wetter, colder. Lots of curve balls. We are a naturally vigorous site but have selected vigorous rootstocks for our new plantings as we believe these will be best suited to hotter drier conditions.”
“We grow to the season without rote methodology.”
Collected vine cuttings after pruning are mulched to increase organic matter in the soil, and the nutrient status of the vineyard is monitored through petiole and soil testing. This has resulted in a program that has been gradually increasing phosphate levels with rock phosphate applications made each year to reach the ideal balance.
It is observation and the sensitive response to the sites unique conditions that drives Marks’ approach, rather than sticking to a recipe, no matter how well regarded. “We grow to the season without rote methodology,” he says. And that’s an attitude that he will take going forward as he enhances the legacy of his parents.
“Our vineyard has always produced distinct wines that speak of a specificity of site to the Upper Yarra and of a terroir informed by the amphitheatre that we enjoy here at Gembrook,” Marks says. “Aside from the fact that it is an exceptionally beautiful place to spend your time, one of the great thrills working here is that the vineyard is a legacy of the hard work of my parents. Something I am very proud to contribute to and continue to evolve into the future.”
Please sign in or create account as candidate to bookmark this job
Please sign in or create account to save this search
Please sign in or create account as candidate to create a resume
