Finalist Archives - Page 2 of 18 - Young Gun of Wine

Koomilya Vineyard, McLaren Vale

Planted circa 1960s, and purchased in 2012 by Fiona and Stephen Pannell, the Koomilya vineyard combines McLaren Vale’s wine heritage with a forward thinking approach to the identity of Australian wine through the lens of ‘alternative’ climate-apt varieties. The site includes two rows of mataro that are around 100 years old, as well as some old-vine shiraz and cabernet sauvignon propagated in the 1960s from McLaren Vale’s original 1840s vines. Malbec, touriga nacional, tempranillo and grenache make up the rest of the vineyard, where the average vine age is around 25 years. Large work to replace invasive plants with native trees, coupled with further regenerative agriculture, has been taken to restore the land. The 12 hectares under vine are nestled amongst two native scrublands – preserving the endangered Grey Box Grassy Woodlands – and creek lines which define the unique setting of this 35 hectare property.

Paxton Wines – Thomas Block Vineyard, McLaren Vale

The Thomas Block is the jewel in the crown for Paxton Wines, who have around half a dozen vineyards throughout McLaren Vale. The first vineyard purchased by David Paxton in 1978, this 26-hectare certified biodynamic vineyard boasts a treasure of old vine shiraz planted in 1887 – the oldest shiraz vines in McLaren Vale. Further plantings since 1979 give it a grape variety mix that also includes grenache, chardonnay, pinot gris, cabernet, graciano, mataro, tempranillo and fiano, going into Paxton Wines. The flagship Paxton wine, the EJ Shiraz, named after David Paxton’s mother and family matriarch Elizabeth Jean, comes exclusively from the Thomas Block.

Portsea Estate – Main Ridge Vineyard

Portsea Estate – Main Ridge Vineyard was first planted in 1997 and was recently acquired by Portsea Estate in 2021. Spearheaded by a passionate team including Matt Lugg, Sean Jones, Travis De Winton, Maddy Callahan, and Will Ross, this 5.47-hectare vineyard with red volcanic basalt (Ferrosol) soils at 174 metres elevation. It resides in the Mornington Peninsula’s sub-region of Main Ridge, which is surrounded on three sides by the waters of Port Phillip Bay, Western Port Bay and Bass Straight. The ‘Portsea Estate – Main Ridge’ site, making varietal bottlings of premium chardonnay and pinot noir, is bisected by Manton’s Creek forming a valley with east and west facing slopes, and is managed with regenerative agriculture since the new stewardship.

Riversdale Vineyard, Frankland River

Initially planted in 1996, and expanded by Edwina and Larry Cherubino since 2010, the now 80-hectare Riversdale Vineyard is under the stewardship of Cherubino, with Jonno Reeve and Dwayne Loitering supporting vineyard management. The estate has dual-aspect sites, the Riversdale North block, facing north, and Riversdale South block, facing south. Across the property they have 15 grape varieties, from classics such as shiraz and cabernet sauvignon – where they remarkably have 20 clones, to alternative varieties like mencia, fiano, greco, and nebbiolo, as they aim for climate suitability. An impressive roll call of wines come from Riversdale vineyard, starting with the business’ own ‘Cherubino’ label, as well as Singlefile, and Penfolds wines.

Stargazer – Palisander Vineyard, Tasmania

Palisandar vineyard, in Tasmania’s Coal River Valley, was originally planted with 1-hectare of pinot noir and riesling vines in 2004, and later purchased by Samantha Connew – the talented winemaker behind the Stargazer label. Since then, Connew expanded the plantings to 5-hectares with the addition of chardonnay, gamay, pinot blanc, pinot gris, and gewurztraminer. The viticulture is managed by Bryn Williams with a holistic approach rather than simply a grape monoculture – providing economic sustainability as well as biodiversity. Palisandar stands out for its depth of pinot noir and chardonnay clones, and unique focus on producing Alsatian blends.

Stockman’s Ridge Vineyard, Orange

Building on the experience of his first vineyard in the Central Ranges, Jonathan Hambrook looked to the high-altitude cold climate of the Orange region for his next site. The viticulture at Stockman’s Ridge, planted from 2012, reflects Hambrook’s thoughtful approach. This includes a focus on repairing soils to the cultivation of a diverse 6-hectare vineyard planted with a density of approximately 3,400 vines per hectare. The selection of varieties is both traditional and exploratory, featuring pinot noir, shiraz, zinfandel, cabernet franc, merlot, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, and grüner veltliner – the latter of which represents a pioneering planting in the region.

Syrahmi Home Block Vineyard, Heathcote

In Tooborac, the southernmost point of the Heathcote wine region, amongst the verdigris-mossed granitic boulders of the hillside, emerges the Syrahmi Home Block Vineyard, the labour of love for shiraz by Adam Foster. The Syrahmi label was launched in the mid-2000’s as a roaming project, taking in parcels of fruit from across Heathcote. However, it was the planting of the ‘Home Block Vineyard’ in 2017 that was the masterstroke. Since then, the vines have been hewn with blood, sweat and tears into the granitic soils at a high-density by Adam Foster alone. This young vineyard is the fastidious next chapter in an obsession and unwavering commitment to make the ultimate expression of shiraz, with the first release of wines coming from the 2019 vintage, due to be released in 2024.

Stonegarden Vineyard, Eden Valley

Located in the Eden Valley’s southeastern corner, a stone’s throw from Springton, Stonegarden Vineyard is a historic gem first planted from 1858. Under Glen Monaghan’s stewardship since 2015, this 20-hectare vineyard nurtures a diverse array of varieties including grenache, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon, riesling, muscat, mataro, and more, without herbicides, embodying a minimalist viticulture ethos. Stonegarden’s vines, over 165 years old, contribute to an impressive roll call of wines. Labels such as Stonegarden Wines, Chateau Tanunda, John Duval, Kellermeister, Head Wines, Eperosa, and Brothers At War showcase the vineyard’s grenache, with prices ranging from $65 to $500, underscoring the exceptional quality derived from this historic site.

Koomilya Vineyard, McLaren Vale Stephen Pannell