Wine store on one side, wine bar the other, the marriage of the Porteño crew’s take on tapas with a stellar list of international wines ¬– and all available by the glass – is an irresistible combination.
While there’s a decent amount of nostalgia to the old digs, it’s hard to argue with the logic of pairing the duo’s much-loved tapas with a sizeable collection of cutting-edge wine assembled by sommelier Lana Gray. The basic layout of the narrow site has not changed much, indeed not since its predecessor, 121 BC, occupied the space. The room is split lengthways, with floor-to-ceiling racking, complete with sliding library ladders, and well-stocked fridges on one side. While on the other, a venue-length island serves as a communal high table and bar in one.
Everything in the wine store is fair game in the restaurant, with over 200 bottles also available by the glass – just ask. The wine list – and yes, there is a list, so mid-dinner wanderings to peruse the shelves aren’t necessary, though perfectly acceptable – leans towards small, artisan producers from around the globe.
Local lo-fi stars like BK Wines, Lucy Margaux, Shobbrook and Patrick Sullivan are joined by a slightly newer wave of labels, such as Gentle Folk, Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown and Dilworth & Allain. And if you want to hit some of the big names of ‘natural’ wine, you’ll find bottlings from Gravner, Radikon, Cornelisson and Nicolas Joly, amongst other luminaires.
The proximity to Porteño means the occasional special gets walked around the corner, making the most of their asado and parrilla, but most of the signature tapas that has made Bodega so loved are fashioned on site and in clear view in the tiny kitchen tucked in the corner. Expect the usual pan-Latin influences, with creativity always at the fore. The menu is characteristically fluid, with dishes swapped in and out across any given week, but some old favourites remain, such as the fish fingers (kingfish crudo on garlic-scented toast) and Basque cheesecake.
Sommelier Stuart Knox got his start in the wine game after begging to be promoted from waiter to sommelier at London institution Bibendum, Terence Conran’s first restaurant. Three years later, and the young Knox had quite the education after handling the 1500-bin wine list (compiled by Matthew Jukes at the time) and a discerning clientele…
An offshoot of Potts Point’s much-loved Fratelli Paradiso, 10 William St shed the skin of modern Australian-Italian dining with a push away from fried calamari with rocket et al, delving into a new form of Italian experimentation. Respectful and subtle experimentation, that is. And while Fratelli Paradiso has long stuck to a wine list that…
Sella Vinoteca is one of Sydney’s finest Italian restaurants, matched with a brilliant wine list, but its charms are equally accessible for those wanting to pull up a stool for a snack and a glass or two. And you can take any of the bottles home, too.
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