This mecca for natural wine in Perth is also a serious destination for food, with produce sourced from local organic farms and cooked with respect. You can dine, have snacks and a glass or two, or even take a bottle home.
Wines of While is both instantly recognisable and thoroughly individual. The old shop, with its recessed entry, chalky white walls, worn floorboards, hulking blonde-wood communal table/bar, chalked menu and industrial steel racking speaks to both its intent and its inspiration, with shades of some like-minded establishments embedded in its DNA. But this is definitively Winfield’s vision, with every facet reflective of his deeply personal and passionate approach, from the uncompromising selection of wines to menu that he and a young and enthusiastic kitchen team have always written and cooked together, right down to the 24-hour-ferment sourdough bread.
“Jack Botha and Branden Scott are heading the kitchen together,” says Winfield, noting that he no longer tries to do everything himself. “Jack, from the UK, is bringing his experience at Brawn and River Cottage to the menu and with local stalwart Branden, they have elevated the food to a new level. Sourcing organic ingredients has become our focus, and the team are changing almost the whole menu weekly, showing great range and creativity, which is great for keeping the dining vibe fresh and interesting.”
The principles of natural wine are sometimes entwined and confused with matters of style. No so for Winfield. “We’re focused on selling natural wine, which to us is organic or biodynamically grown. …Indigenous yeast only, no fine/filter, less than 30ppm SO2 added, though we have about 40 per cent zero sulphur.” The simplicity of this, which mirrors the original charter for natural wine producers, strips away any artifice, which knits neatly into the affable, pretence-free vibe.
“I think the juxtaposition is key, and it works in a few ways. First the comparison between Swan Draught being on only one of two taps since day one, pride of place, a simple workers beer versus avant-garde, experimental beers like Two Metre Tall’s Soured Wild Plum Ale. Second, the chance to drink a half pint of Swan then a Ploussard from Jura. I like the dichotomy.”
And while Perth is no longer seen as trailing far behind the twin metropolises of Melbourne and Sydney, its physical isolation has often meant that sourcing a wide variety of wines has been somewhat difficult. The 600-strong offering at Wines of While, however, mocks the tyranny of distance, with a raft of compelling listings that rigidly adheres to Winfield’s definition of natural wine. The list is heavily canted towards European listings, another function of fitting Winfield’s criteria, with ‘unicorn’ wines aplenty. The by-the-glass list runs to 10 or so offerings, and is refreshed almost on a daily basis. This is another major feature of Wines of While, with 36 bottles being their maximum purchase, making it one of this country’s most dynamic lists.
Fair to say that Daniel Goodsell had worked in his fair share of Perth’s finest food and wine establishments, having spent nearly two decades setting up and running establishments with Little Creatures co-founder and serial restaurateur Nic Trimboli, including Duende, Balthazar, Gordon Street Garage and Bread in Common. Although Daniel had equity arrangements in some…
Owners Sam and Tom Hart had lived in north-western Perth suburb Doubleview for several years before opening The Corner Dairy in 2021. “We’d been wanting a place like this to go to,” says Sam. “We refitted an old tax office into what we thought would be an ideal casual, laidback spot where people could hang out and try some interesting beers and wines, and eat some delicious food without having to leave the neighbourhood.”
They say that things made by committee are the lesser for it, products of compromise that satisfy no-one. Well, Strange Company, in Fremantle, is a stark exception to this rule. With five partners – Greg Leaver, Matt Giudice, Jason Townes and the Travers brothers, Clancy and Darcy – Strange Company was very much designed to…
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