While Melbourne may have fallen for the enoteca model of wine bar somewhat earlier, it wasn’t until the arrival of Andy Leigh and Lewis Phiddian’s Union Street Wine in early 2014 that Geelong properly succumbed to its charms. Gutting an old shopfront with the help of family and friends, the pair installed a bespoke polished hardwood bar and soon started spinning the flywheel on their meat slicer.
However, when the duo first flung those doors open, they were painfully aware that their project was no certain success. “We opened Union Street Wine over six years ago when Geelong was still a pretty slow town, with not much going on,” says Leigh. “They were pretty dark times around town, with so many big business closing, but it was important to us to be here and be part of the change. We’re proud to be in Geelong.”
Leigh and Phiddian took things a step further, too, accompanying a selection of wines that paid homage to local lights, both those well-known and more avant-garde, with an eclectic mix of top makers from around the globe, with many swimming outside the mainstream. That selection was built on the best formula: wines they loved. While their individual preferences sometimes stray in different directions – accounting for a pleasingly diverse offer – their approach to dispensing them has always been very much aligned.
“We’re a pretty casual relaxed venue, so there’s no intimidation for customers to open up and ask all the things they want to ask about wine,” says Leigh. “We always give people a chance to taste their wines before they buy. So, if it’s not for them, they can choose something else.”
With no kitchen, the menu at Union Street Wine is very much down the cheese and charcuterie line, with conservas plumping up the offer. All bottles are available to drink in or take home, with a small corkage fee charged inhouse. There are eight by-the-glass options at a minimum, with a Coravin handy to access more premium bottles, and it being an unusual day for them not to open a few more bottles to satisfy their curiosity or that of their customers, or both.
With the takeaway trade keeping them busy, it wasn’t long before Leigh and Phiddian took on the lease for the adjoining shopfront, giving their retail customers a little more room to move, as well as expanding the offering for those pulling up a stool at the bar. That retail business has also expanded virtually, with the selection mirrored online, as well offering a curated subscription service.
COVID-19 conditions: Without a kitchen, Union Street Wine weren’t able to reopen the bar side of their operation when lockdown restrictions were eased, but the cellar has been going strong, both onsite and through their online store and subscription service.