A remixed Italian dining experience that’s a lot of fun – offering not just great food and wine, but also the atmosphere and the vibe, where diners can expect to discover some different wines and enjoy a chat with the team.
Ask for some special recommendations and wines that are off the menu (the ‘last bottle standing’ list).
Testun has made an immediate impact since opening in the heart of inner-Perth nightlife hub Mount Lawley during June 2022. Styling itself as a neo-Italian neighbourhood osteria, the room has a lively, loud and rambunctious atmosphere.
The ownership quartet of Fabio Trequattrini (affectionately called “the boss”), his son Francesco (also a co-chef), sommelier Antonio Di Sanzo and chef Christopher Caravella say they represent a new wave of Italo-Australiano advocates. “We make fun of things that everyone else takes way too seriously.”
However, this doesn’t extend to the drinks on offer. The wine list features about 50 frequently rotating wines with a focus on Italy’s exciting natural wine renaissance, presenting producers from lesser-known regions working with indigenous grape varieties, made in unique styles. It also highlights Australian winemakers experimenting with Italian grape varieties.
They’re not wine snobs, either. A long list of beverage options includes aperitifs, amari, digestifs, beers, cocktails and their own house infusions, such as wasabi, ginger and pear gin, and mandarin, cardamom and fennel grappa.
The Tetsun list even has some “goon” wine options, providing an affordable choice from producers and natural winemakers who have embraced and adopted the flagon format with a modern, forward-thinking approach. “Goon reminds us of the wine we grew up around: simple, genuine and honest drinking,” says Antonio.
Because Fabio is also owner of this neighbourhood’s long-time favourite eatery Threecoins Italian Trattoria, Tetsun has a generous Italian food focus, but with a modern twist. Expect rigatoni with lamb and black olive ragu, but also mortadella spiedino or whipped stracchino with caramelised leek and anchovy.
“Rather than present a wine bar as only a place to drink wine, we wanted to create a space where you could also find great food and community,” says Fabio.
Tetsun reclaims the owners’ culinary heritage through the transformation of a former café space into a gallery of the mismatched things they grew up with. “It’s a cheeky homage to our nonna’s house – so no matter how kitsch or poorly put together some of the décor is, it’s a true expression of our personalities, our background and our sense of aesthetics.”
So, there’s Plumm and Riddel glassware appropriate to each grape variety, but also expect to find nonna’s vintage glassware for some funky drinks.
“The attitude is a little DIY, and a lot about not giving a damn what everyone else is up to,” says Francesco. “Testun started from an idea rather than a product. It has an easy carelessness, even though it’s very thoughtfully operated. We want people to feel comfortable, to be included as if they came to our nonna’s house. But it’s also a little bit unhinged, and that’s always to be expected.”
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