This is a very personal wine bar, the platonic ideal of one for owners Paul McGivern and Bailee Dewes, where on-trend wines share space with established classics and guests can snack while they order by the glass, or settle in for a degustation menu and a bottle or three.
McGivern’s training naturally puts him in the back of the house, but a break from chef’s whites prior to The Wolfe saw him honing his front of house skills. And this understanding of the dynamics of human movement and interaction underpins his approach to the warm and inclusive atmosphere of La Lune. Plus, McGivern has a bit of wine cred, with a vintage in Geelong with old friend Nick Farr under his belt, as well as a stint in Burgundy in 2010. It was that Burgundian jaunt that planted the seed for La Lune, with a well-frequented Dijon wine bar capturing his imagination. So, this is McGivern’s take on his idea of a perfect wine bar.
Curated by co-owner and sommelier Bailee Dewes, the wine list runs to about 200 listings, with about 30 available by the glass. There are additional wines inked on the subway tiles flanking the bar, with those more rarefied bottlings dispensed courtesy of a Coravin. For those more inclined to order the house wine are in for a treat, too, with Paul’s long-time pal Nick Farr (of By Farr, Farr Rising and Irrewarra fame) making a pinot noir and chardonnay just for La Lune (La Lune from ‘A Farr’ – get it…) – though understandably not quite at house prices. There’s a strong appreciation for pinot noir and chardonnay on the list, but then there’s more than a decent nod to most everything else, too, with classic and more zeitgeisty bottlings rubbing shoulders quite comfortably.
Unsurprisingly, you can eat pretty seriously at La Lune, but you don’t have to either, with classic wine bar snacks and cheese plates staple offerings. There’s also a five-course tasting menu option, which can be served with or without the ever-thoughtful wine matches. With, we say!
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