Amongst a happily crowded field that has been redefining the culinary landscape in this country, Mat Lindsay has stood out somewhat since the opening of his ground-breaking restaurant Ester in 2013. Working with the very back-to-basics essential of today’s chef–fire–he has forged (pardon the pun) a singular path of deceptively simple and visually exquisite dishes that have made him somewhat of a beacon for his peers, and his restaurant a perennially busy favourite of the dining public.
Oysters are coaxed open on the grill, then dressed with pepperberry and sake, for example. King prawns roasted in the wood-fired oven with fermented shrimp butter and capers are an immovable menu item, as is the roasted cauliflower with almond sauce and mint.And perhaps the most emblematic of Lindsay’s offerings is the blood sausage sanga, which is about as subtly refined as you can get, while still closely mimicking a backyard snag, diagonally bisecting a slice of ‘white death’.
Underpinning, or rather complementing Lindsay’s insistence on the finest of ingredients in respect to both intrinsic quality and high-welfare and sustainable practices, the wine and beverage list follows a similarly rigorous path. The focus is firmly on organic and biodynamic producers, employing minimal intervention practices in the winery. The relatively tight but ever-changing list is supported by sake, local craft beers, and a house-made kombucha and wild-harvest native tea for those eschewing the hard stuff.
Nick Hildebrandt and Brent Savage are a formidable duo, founding landmark restaurants Bentley Restaurant + Bar, Yellow and Cirrus, as well as their wine bar-slash-restaurant, Monopole. Hildebrandt is one of Sydney’s most celebrated and influential wine minds, crafting lists over the years that have pushed boundaries like few others, while Savage has very much had…
When Matt Lindsay and business partner Julien Dromgool took on the lease for the corner site in the recently completed and uber hip Paramount House Hotel, in Commonwealth Street, their aim was not to turn out another Ester, their critically acclaimed and much-loved Chippendale wood-fired fine diner. Well, fine diner is perhaps not truly reflective…
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