Amongst a happily crowded field that has been redefining the culinary landscape in this country, Mat Lindsay has stood out somewhat since the opening of his ground-breaking restaurant Ester in 2013. Working with the very back-to-basics essential of today’s chef–fire–he has forged (pardon the pun) a singular path of deceptively simple and visually exquisite dishes that have made him somewhat of a beacon for his peers, and his restaurant a perennially busy favourite of the dining public.
Oysters are coaxed open on the grill, then dressed with pepperberry and sake, for example. King prawns roasted in the wood-fired oven with fermented shrimp butter and capers are an immovable menu item, as is the roasted cauliflower with almond sauce and mint.And perhaps the most emblematic of Lindsay’s offerings is the blood sausage sanga, which is about as subtly refined as you can get, while still closely mimicking a backyard snag, diagonally bisecting a slice of ‘white death’.
Underpinning, or rather complementing Lindsay’s insistence on the finest of ingredients in respect to both intrinsic quality and high-welfare and sustainable practices, the wine and beverage list follows a similarly rigorous path. The focus is firmly on organic and biodynamic producers, employing minimal intervention practices in the winery. The relatively tight but ever-changing list is supported by sake, local craft beers, and a house-made kombucha and wild-harvest native tea for those eschewing the hard stuff.
Paul Jones brought some useful things with him when he set up Bibo Wine Bar in an old leather-goods shop in Bay Street Double Bay. Although he didn’t have the operational skills to run a wine bar, he did know how to build and fit one out. As well as being an architect, Paul has…
A brilliant and relaxed local for great wine, cocktails and fun times, with the decided advantage of One Penny Road sending all the food up the stairs to the hungry drinkers.
Sella Vinoteca is one of Sydney’s finest Italian restaurants, matched with a brilliant wine list, but its charms are equally accessible for those wanting to pull up a stool for a snack and a glass or two. And you can take any of the bottles home, too.
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