Coldstream Hills
Although Coldstream Hills wasn’t founded until 1985, over 20 years after Wantirna Estate, it was still very much a prime mover in the renaissance of the Yarra. Founded by wine critic James Halliday, the estate placed an emphasis on chardonnay and pinot noir, with cabernet taking much more of a backseat than with other iconic producers. That focus continues today, with single vineyard wines key, both from the estate’s valley floor vineyards, as well as cooler sites in the Upper Yarra.
A: 29 Maddens Lane, Coldstream VIC 3770
Ph: (03) 5960 7000
W: coldstreamhills.com.au
Mount Mary
One of the founding estates in the rebirth of the Yarra Valley, Mount Mary was planted by Dr John and Marli Middleton in 1971. They first became famous for their ‘Quintet’, based on the five red Bordeaux grapes and an homage to Bordeaux Blanc, ‘Triolet’. Pinot Noir and chardonnay now get more or less equal pegging. John’s grandson Sam now makes the wine, and has overseen the planting of Rhône varieties, both red and white, to help future proof for a warming climate.
A: PO BOX 626, Lilydale VIC 3140
Ph: (03) 9739 1761
W: mountmary.com.au
Seville Estate
While no longer family owned, Dylan McMahon is Seville Estate’s chief winemaker and general manager and the grandson of founders Margaret and Dr Peter McMahon. The McMahons planted on a stretch red volcanic soil rich in basalt, which is unusual for the Yarra. Today, the estate range comes off both the original 1972 plantings and 1996 additions, while the reserve wines are all from the old vines. Chardonnay, pinot noir, shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and riesling are all made.
A: 65 Linwood Road, Seville VIC 3139
Ph: (03) 5964 2622
W: sevilleestate.com.au
Wantirna Estate
Reg and Bertina Egan officially breathed new life into the Yarra in 1963 with their first plantings, which were a fruit salad of varieties from the noble to the less celebrated. That mix was whittled down to what are Yarra mainstays now – chardonnay, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot and petit verdot. Two Bordeaux blends are made, of both right and left bank inspiration, along with varietal bottlings of chardonnay and pinot noir.
A: 8 Bushy Park Ln, Wantirna South VIC 3152
Ph: (03) 9801 2367
W: wantirnaestate.com.au
Yarra Yering
Another doctor involved in the rebirth of the Yarra, Dr Bailey Carrodus first planted vines in 1969, with the first commercial harvest in 1973. The ‘Dry Red Wine No.1’ and ‘No.2’, based on cabernet varieties, and shiraz with a hatful of other Rhône varieties respectively, became some of the most famous and sought-after Yarra wines, along with an oxidative style of chardonnay and various other melanges, including a mash-up of port varieties. After Dr Carrodus’ death, the estate was almost lost, but a renaissance under the stewardship of Sarah Crowe has seen it emerge stronger than ever.
A: 4 Briarty Road Gruyere Vic 3770 Australia
Ph: (03) 5964 9267
W: www.yarrayering.com
Yeringberg
While the winegrowing link was broken for some 50 years, the de Pury family have been on the same property (formerly a part of the original Yering Station) since 1863. They were the last to produce a commercial grape harvest, in 1921, and one of the first to replant in 1969. Today, they still make wine in the museum-like winery from the Bordeaux varieties, as well as shiraz, viognier, marsanne, roussanne, pinot noir and chardonnay.
A: 810 Maroondah Hwy, Coldstream VIC 3770
Ph: (03) 9739 0240
W: yeringberg.com.au