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Out of The Shadows

Wines Of Now
  • Out of The Shadows

    Today, cutting-edge makers are embracing varieties that have been blended away, ignored or been seen as too traditional. Some of these have been given new wings a little while back and are now firmly making their mark, while others are slowly emerging from the shadows. Tony Zafirakos (Aristotelis Ke Anthoula), Steffi Snook (Yayoi), Emily Kinsman (ECK Wines), Aaron Mercer (Mercer Wines), Marcus Radny (Gonzo Vino), Justin Folloso (Cave Wines), Tom Daniel (Chouette) and Rowly Milhinch (Scion) are all finding new expressions from well-established varieties.

  • The Italian Job

    To say that Italian varieties have arrived is an understatement. Until around 2000, the Australian uptake of Italy’s grapes had been relatively slow, with some notable makers of sangiovese and nebbiolo the main players, though arguably a stylistic expression of pinot grigio had made the most Italian-accented impression. But the floodgates of new Italian grape varieties started to open after the turn of the century. The 2023 YGOWA Top 50 features Vino Intrepido, Mercer Wines, New Era, Sven Joschke Wine, Minimum, Yayoi and Intrepidus, who are are all flying the il Tricolore.

  • The Third Annual Vineyard of the Year Awards Trophy Winners

    The third instalment of the annual Vineyard of the Year Awards has been decided following a six month process that included site inspections of shortlisted finalists, with the judging panel reaching a consensus on the winners of the four trophies: New Vineyard of the Year; Old Vineyard of the Year; Innovative Vineyard of the Year, dubbed ‘The Groundbreaker’; and Vineyard of the Year.

  • Grenache – Making Al Dente Wines in Warm Climes

    Today, grenache can be brooding or it can be lithe and vibrant, it can be silky, or it can be arrestingly grippy – it is versatile, characterful and reflects where it is grown with stunning clarity. Greg Clack and Kate Horstman (XO Wine Co.), James and Kimberly Cooter (Cooter & Cooter/Hedonist), Andrew Kenny (Kenny Wine), Louis Schofield (Worlds Apart Wines), Riley Harrison (Harrison Wines), Jean-Paul Trijsburg (Wines by Jean-Paul), Jack Weedon (Rollick), Tom Daniel (Chouette), Koen Janssens (Bink), Skye Salter and Charlie Seppelt (Paralian) are all pushing grenache’s ample possibilities.

  • Pinot Noir – The Labour of Love

    In relatively short time, pinot noir has become a major player in Australian wine. It has helped spearhead a cool climate revolution that has seen places such as Tasmania, the Mornington Peninsula, Macedon, Adelaide Hills and Orange develop into some of our premier wine regions. The 2023 YGOW Awards features Rivulet, Cave Wines, Foxeys Hangout, Pipers Brook and ChaLou, who are all flying the flag for pinot noir.

  • The Art of the Blend

    While we have some famous blended red wine styles in this country – notably classic Bordeaux blends, cabernet combined with shiraz and the old GSM blend – Australian drinkers have overwhelmingly favoured varietal wines. However, classic blends in the hands of progressive makers as well as eccentric combinations have become a much bigger part of the picture for today’s wine drinker. The 2023 YGOW Awards features Aristotelis Ke Anthoula, Sonnen, Stoke, Harrison, White Gate Wine Co., Varney Wines, di Renzo, and Mon Tout, who are keeping blends alive and well by redefining traditions or chasing new and exciting expressions.

  • Playing to the Strengths of the Yarra Valley

    The Yarra Valley is arguably Victoria’s marquee winegrowing region, and especially for chardonnay and pinot noir, with many of this country’s most iconic makers located there. It is also a region that sees considerable celebration for the Bordeaux varieties and shiraz – although the commercial reality of those grapes is less robust than their reputation. With established names abounding, there are also newer producers making their mark, adding layers to what is already a rich story. Wheeler Wines, Tillie J, Honkey Chateau and Pacha Mama are all flying the flag for younger makers in the Yarra.

  • The Grip of Postmodern Whites

    It’s not so long ago that the mere idea of grape tannin and skin-derived colour – let alone a hazy appearance – in white wine would have winemaking lecturers and show judges frothing at the mouth in horror. Noticeable grip in white wine was seen as a fault, a failure of process. Today, the script has had a new chapter added, with a big payoff in terms of texture and flavour complexity. From wines with the faintest of complexing grip to those that are made like red wines with ample chew and deep colour, and everything in between, are now an accepted part of the wine landscape. Anita Goode (Wangolina), Sven Joschke (Sven Joschke Wines), Matt Purbrick and Leigh Ritchie (Minimum), Raquel Jones (Weathercraft), Marcus Radny (Gonzo Vino), Chad Connolly (White Gate Wine Co.), James Scarcebrook (Vino Intrepido), Peta Kotz (Sabi Wabi), Sam Renzaglia (di Renzo), Richard Burch and Nic Bowen (Mon Tout) are all pursuing textural styles.

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