Our panel: Chris Ryan, Senior Wine Buyer, Trader House Group; Christina Kaigg-Hoxley, Wine Development Manager, 67 Pall Mall; Dr Ray Nadeson, Winemaker and Owner, Lethbridge; Madeleine Marson, Winemaker, Vinea Marson; Ed Merrison, wine writer and educator, Vininspo!; Katarina Lange, Sommelier, Botanical Hotel; Phoebe Grant, Sommelier, Cutler & Co; Paula Pipan, Winemaker and Owner, Pipan Steel; Peter Saturno, Director, Longview Vineyard.
With eight of the finest palates in attendance, we gathered every example we could find in Australia and set our expert panel the tasks of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.
We simply wanted each panellist to select the six wines that engaged them the most, and on any level. This was not an exercise in technical perfection, but rather engagement and interest, though naturally those spheres may very well intersect. The other important caveat was that the wines needn’t subscribe to a classic view on what nebbiolo ‘should’ look like based on Italian benchmarks. Again, the comparison is inevitable, but we weren’t looking for caricature; we were looking for wines that made sense of nebbiolo in any given Australian macroclimate, with their own unique soil profiles.
Interestingly, though the panel shared some of their top six choices, they almost all nominated a different wine for their most compelling. And a majority of the wines not making any of the panel’s shortlist were spoken of favourably. So, based on the parameters laid down, there are some notable exclusions from this list. It highlights that dedicated professionals with highly educated palates reach different conclusions, and eminently supportable ones at that. That’s wine.
Below are the top wines from the tasting.
This wine topped the tasting for Merrison, with Kaigg-Hoxley, Grant, Saturno, Nadeson, Ryan, Lange also including it in their top-six lists. “Very light appearance in the glass, with nervy, lifted aromatics and lovely notes of cherry spice,” noted Saturno. Merrison noted: “A delicately enticing nose that promises good things. A springlike bouquet at first, with delicate red floral notes and bright fruits: pomegranate and raspberry with some strawberry compote, hedgerow and hazelnut accents. Lovely purity on a palate that builds well with fresh, pulsing sweet fruit through the middle offset by calmly assertive acid and tannin structure. Emerging, sneaky length. Lovely clean stone, spice and pippy fruit finish.” “Quite fine boned and detailed,” added Grant, “Chalkiness of tannin feels super harmonious.” Kaigg-Hoxley wrote: “The palate opens to show wild strawberry, black cherry and some familiar – almost Campari-like characters – moving into a more medicinal profile. There is a sweetness here and also a clear spicy, herbal edge which provides refreshing balance and bitterness. Lots of pepper on the finish, with mouthwatering acidity and concentrated, ripe fruit profile. Really lively example, that is not afraid to lean into the rustic, structural elements of nebbiolo as a variety.” “The finish is persistent and aromatic, with lingering echoes of black tea leaves and a touch of exotic spices,” added Nadeson, “A refined and distinctive wine with elegance and depth.”
This was the second top wine for both Ryan and Grant. “This wine reminds me of some of the expressions in the Alto Piemonte which is to say: elegant, pretty, aromatic expressions of nebbiolo that have a real immediacy to them,” commented Ryan. “There’s classic varietal tart red berries, crushed rose petals that are a real pleasure to smell and then this well-judged line of acid and tannin that keeps you coming back. A very elegant, pretty take on nebbiolo.” Grant noted: “The nose is very pretty and engaging, lots going on. Cherry cola, salty prosciutto fat, mushroom tea, blood plum and bitumen. Tannin is very well integrated. The oak usage is good – enough to lend complexity and depth rather than structure and creaminess. Feels really layered and nuanced.”
Grant placed this as her wine of the day, with Lange and Saturno also including it in their top-six lists.: “This wine ticks all the boxes for me: power, weight, intensity and complexity,” said Grant. “Fruit offers both bright tart cherry redness and darker bramble tones. The tannin feels quite natural- sandy and fine. A touch of an earl grey/bergamot lift, with a soft green/thyme edge. Initial dustiness on the nose seals the deal for me. Poised and detailed. Oak is present, but not jarring.” “While it could benefit from a touch more depth, it earns points for its freshness and vibrant character,” commented Saturno. Lange’s not read: “Quite exotic and spicy with sandalwood, cloves and frankincense aromas. The fruit profile is a little more tart with dark morello cherry, wild strawberries and lingonberry. Wet autumn leaves and dry underbrush give an earthy complexity to the nose. On the palate, the tannins are in focus albeit not intrusive. The flavours mirror the nose with additional bitter orange rind and tart cranberry. Overall, a very well balanced and expressive example of nebbiolo which will be drinking well immediately from the bottle.”
This wine topped the tasting for Lange and Nadeson, with Merrison also including it in his top-six list. “This wine presents a deep, dense, and brooding nose with remarkably intense aromatics,” said Nadeson. “Bright notes of crunchy cherry mingle with fresh violets and dried rose petals, evolving as you savour it to reveal more earthy and savory elements. It offers a thoroughly captivating experience and stood out to me immediately and continued to command attention throughout the tasting. On the palate, there’s a beautiful interplay of bright, crunchy cherry, dried raspberries, and savory earthiness. Its impeccable balance is highlighted by lively acidity that carries through to a long, persistent finish marked by a touch of mineral driven finesse. A classic expression of nebbiolo, showcasing both power and finesse. Lange noted: “Of all the wines on display, this is the most like a Langhe with respect to aroma profile and balance. The tannins are perfectly balanced by the juicy acidity, leaving the palate refreshed. There is a distinct salinity which helps round the mouthfeel and gives great length on the palate. Red liquorice and salted raspberries come through on the finish.” Merrison wrote: “The entry has flesh and substance with fine, drying nebbiolo tannins that are soaked with red-berry juices and flowers. The flavours of fresh, pulpy fruits and herbs fan out nicely with the structure keeping it focused and dragging it long. Understated in a way, but engaging and convincing.”
This was wine of the day for Kaigg-Hoxley, with Ryan also including it in his top-six list. Kaigg-Hoxley: “Quite gamey upon first encounters with notes of red cherry skin, strawberry and dusky sandalwood,” said Kaigg-Hoxley. “An austerity to the middle palate that feels very restrained, while good concentration of taut, ripe red cherry. Oak seems integrated, with chewy tannin structure with a persistent finish. Lots to unpack and seek out on the palate, with time in the glass revealing notes of anise and fresh black pepper in amongst that red fruit. Super moreish, showing a great combination of generosity and restraint. A really captivating example.” Ryan noted: “Almost confected red fruits on the nose, macerated strawberry, red current, even impression of ripe watermelon. Leans into a brighter, juicier take on nebbiolo, but would scratch the itch for anyone looking for a pretty, lighter red wine. A great introduction to the aromatics and elegance of nebbiolo without too much drying tannins. Gateway nebbiolo!”
This was the second top wine for Marson, with Merrison and Grant also including it in their top-six lists. “This wine smells like salami making day – there’s this deliciously tertiary pork sausage fat and fennel seed note straight up, said Grant. “Riverbed cola dustiness with some porcini stock umami edge. Lots of bramble and forest floor. Quite a long and dense palate. Elegant tannin shape, has a really prettiness to counteract how savoury and driven the fruit is.” Marson noted, “Another powerful wine melded with an attractive suppleness. Red fruits abound on the nose alongside a lovely floral quality. Refined, supple tannins are the key allure here alongside a palate of juicy and bright red fruits – fresh red cherries and strawberries are suitably ripe alongside more-ish notes of sour cherry.” Merrison wrote: “The nose shows red petals and berries, some hedgerow and alpine herbs – a touch of pinosity with a mountain feel. The ethereal Valtellina vibe continues on the palate, which is pretty and appealing with pippy red berries and raspberry coulis echoes. Even with that delicacy, there is a billowing roundness and flesh to the palate, which finishes sappy, spicy and teasingly sweet enough.”
This was the second top wine for both Kaigg-Hoxley and Pipan. “More integrated style,” commented Pipan, “Subtle, perfumed nose alongside orange peel, iodine and anise notes which carries through to the palate with bergamot and green olive flavours. A fine, textured mouthfeel. Thoughtful and nuanced. Sits at the elegant end of the Nebbiolo spectrum and would marry well with a delicate dish of chicken poached in a miso stock with shiitake mushrooms.” Kaigg-Hoxley wrote: “One of a couple of shy wines in the lineup, but worth the time getting to know it. Some sour cherry and dried tomato on consideration, with some distinctive blood orange elements which are quite refreshing and vibrant. The palate is ripe and refreshing without being overblown or tart, a structure providing tension without being mean. I feel like I’m chasing the aromas around the glass, each time going back for something different – in one moment there’s an exotic floral note, like hibiscus or rosella flower, then there’s a soft warm spice. Very pretty and expressive.”
Marson, Ryan and Grant all had this wine among their top few wines of the day. “A really pretty wine, seductive red berries, wild strawberry, sour cherry,” began Ryan’s noted. “There is a crunchy, tart quality to the fruit that has an immediacy but this contrasts with varietal savoury tannins on the palate. It’s this contrast between elegance, prettiness and supporting savoury, nebbiolo tannins that makes this wine so engaging.” Marson: “A broody nose that begins just a touch reductive, sweet and supple with hints of rose petals before grading to amaro bitterness, dark cherries and a hint of undergrowth. The palate is decidedly brighter with ripe red cherry notes and a second round of orange bitters – the amaro character wraps around some prominent, chewy tannins. It’s bright and pithy and well done! I’d love to see this wine in a couple of years.” “Generous plush fruit,” commented Grant, “with blood plum, blueberry and other blue fruits. Silty tannin. Palate is long and pretty. Quite a delicate and etheral expression of the variety. I find this wine quite inviting and relaxed. A pleasurable, quaffable number.”
Saturno and Pipan included this in their top-six lists. “Shy at first, but with time the airy dustiness of the nose gave hints of generosity underneath,” said Pipan. “Sweet red fruits danced with darker liquorice, anise flavours. Mouthfeel gives you taut nebbiolo tannins, without abrasion. Lingering.” Saturno: “Displays a nice lift of aromatics including alpine herbs and star anise, with hints of skinsy character, but in a good, well-managed, way. The palate offers good fruit accompanied by pronounced, drying tannins. This is an interesting wine that shows potential for aging, with noticeable complexity.
Merrison and Lange included this in their top-six lists. “Very light colour but the nose is full of promise, with striking purity and delicious primary innocence of red berries,” said Merrison. “It shows raspberry, redcurrant jelly, rosemary, earth and crushed stone. The palate is compact, channelled, straight and long, with a firmness that works well with its gorgeous transparent fruit. Powdery tannins and crushed herbs seal the deal.” Lange: “In my opinion, a very punter-friendly nebbiolo with chalky tannins and fresh acidity. The fruit profile is light and fresh with wild strawberries, red apple skin and pink peach with earthy notes reminiscent of baked clay. Pink roses and iron minerals are evident, giving lift and depth to the nose. The palate is fresh with just-ripe fruits and juicy expression. Can be enjoyed without having to battle the usually stern tannin expression of the grape.”
This was Ryan’s wine of the day. “A really engaging wine that strikes a balance of seductive, pretty red fruit aromatics of rhubarb and rooibos tea with contrasting savoury nebbiolo tannins,” noted Ryan. “It’s this line between prettiness and underlying power on the palate that is really engaging. With time in the glass the wine does build and that balance of acid and tannin would suggest that the wine would continue to improve for at least 10 years but there’s a real pleasure to drinking this now from a big glass or decanter.”
This was Saturno’s top wine of the tasting. “Beautiful lift of spice, liquorice, and red currants on the nose,” said Saturno. “The palate is delightful, with a smooth, almost velvety texture. Well-balanced with present tannins and a lovely purity of fruit. Excellent overall. This wine has all the aromatic hallmarks of great nebbiolo, albeit it a lighter frame. The wine had impact while still showing amazing finesse. It would go perfectly with the traditional Piemontese Agnolotti del plin.”
Nadeson and Ryan included this in their top-six lists. “This nebbiolo displays a richer and more opulent profile to most of the wines in the tasting,” commented Nadeson, “It starts with captivating aromas of ripe black cherry, plum compote, and degrees of sweet tobacco. Layers of flavour unfold on the palate, revealing luscious dark berries, dried figs, and hints of cocoa, all of which are seamlessly intertwined with a good dose of forest floor. The tannins provide a plush texture, while relatively high acidity lends balance and structure. A superb expression of nebbiolo showcasing richness and complexity with a refined elegance.” Ryan: “In contrast to some of the prettier expressions, this wine introduces some savoury aromas on the nose: porcini, truffle, and cured meats complement the ripe red cherry fruit. This autumnal feeling to the aromatics suggest some positive development and shows great varietal character. The palate leads with riper red and some dark fruits consistent with an Australian expression but is supported by savoury nebbiolo tannins. More mouthfilling than many in the tasting and a style that would be best enjoyed along wood roasted meats.”
Pipan and Kaigg-Hoxley included this in their top-six lists. “A more savoury expression,” said Kaigg-Hoxley, “A little on the meaty side with the fruit taking a more subtle role. Wild raspberry, plenty of anise and ripe strawberry, with refreshing acidity and tannins that are fine grained but densely layered. Lots to unpack here, but also a nice harmony in the intensity of everything. Upon revisiting there’s kamphir, notes of beef jerky and beguiling black pepper while tannins are silty and mushroom forward, but not overbearing. Not to be rushed, almost intellectual, a wine I’m quite happy to linger over.” While Pipan noted: “Another one that needed to be coaxed out of its shell. Opened up to reveal fresh florals and fruit compote flavours. A great mouthfeel gets me every time, but this one was balanced with fresh juiciness so it was more than just about texture.”
“Typical nebbiolo colour, brick red grading to orange on the rim,” noted Marson, including this in her top-six list. “Aromas are really jumping out of the glass, drawing you in repeatedly. Probably the most interesting nose of the day with refined, lifted florals, and an interesting savouriness lying underneath – earthy and spiced alongside red and dark cherries. Would have been fun to see the next day. The palate is bright and elegant, with flavours of redcurrant, cherries – red, ripe and dark. There’s some cherry spiced oak in there too, and tannins that though more prominent than in other examples– and just a hint more rustic – are well coated, wound around the juicy fruit profile. The palate weight is deftly held with a lovely line of acid, lick of tar and a drive to the finish. The interplay of balance and persistence – a key challenge of the variety both in the vineyard and winery – is deft and well done here.”
“This one obliges with complex aromas ranging from pretty florals to dried potpourri and amaro layered with smooth, fine, lingering, chalky tannins,” said Pipan, placing this in her top-six wines of the day. “A gentle progression from red fruits to tertiary flavours of orange peel and tobacco across the palate hint at time in bottle. A lip smacker. A pleasing evolution that keeps going on and on. Balanced elegance and power.”
“This wine is a great example of elegance and depth,” declared Nadeson, placing this among his top-six wines of the day. “Opening with intense aromas of ripe red berries, dried roses, and hints of earth. On the palate, it reveals layers of bright cherry, dried cranberry, and subtle notes of tar, tobacco and roses, complemented by a firm yet velvety tannic structure. The bright yet balanced acidity and tannins lead to a finish characterised by a fine, chalky minerality that lingered gracefully.”
“A floral and pretty aroma profile with cherry tea, hibiscus, dried rose petals, peony and violets,” described Lange in her tasting note for this wine, which she had in top-six wines of the day. “Firm red cherry and Red Delicious apple make up the fruit profile. On the palate, the tannins are muscular and serious, very true to the grape. Hints of cherry cola and cola bean on the palate hint to the great Barbaresco’s of Italy. This may require a decant to fully open up, but is a stellar example of nebbiolo.”
Marson and Saturno both included this in their top-six lists. “Opens with a sweet, well rounded aroma that hints at slight reduction,” said Saturno, “There’s a cherry lift on the nose, and the palate offers a warm, smooth texture reminiscent of Campari and blood orange.” Marson wrote: “Brick red with an orange rim, it’s got that lovely interplay between sweet and savoury on both the nose and palate. There’s a hint of tar and attractive dark cherries on the nose. The palate has a lovely cherry cola flavour with bright red cherries and red currents too, tannins that begin a touch chalky before being rounded by juiciness – I like this kind of integration in nebbiolo, that deft combination of persistence and tannin coated in juiciness. A little bit of minerality too which is most enjoyable.”
Merrison and Marson both included this in their top-six lists. “Autumnal berries, sour cherry, honey, herbs and dried flowers show on a complex, developing nose that also has primary fruit lift and raspberry compote ripeness,” noted Merrison. “Nice dusty tannins are threaded through a palate of deep, developing red fruit flavours. I really like the focus and length here. There’s lots of tannin but it works because there’s buoyancy to the fruit, which the tannins channel to a long, chalky and convincing finish.” Marson: “Another broody nose – most interesting as it melds aromas of red cherries and amaro bitters, with typical tar and roses. The palate is a touch more delicate, without forgoing typicity. Though slightly more tart than on the nose, its generous red cherry character and notes of redcurrant are accompanied by well-integrated tannins, that start with a brusque rusticity that is quickly coated in fruit and a lovely note of cherry spice. It’s elegant with a gentle quality that does not veer into greenness nor bitter astringency.”
Kaigg-Hoxley and Lange both included this in their top-six lists. “Something about smelling a blend of orange zest and rose petals always makes me smile with this variety,” said Kaigg-Hoxley. “It has hallmark volatility to lift those more exotic aromatics, but it’s not overbearing. Soft anise and some pretty, powdery spice and menthol characters lead a very spice-forward palate. All red fruit here, with morello cherry and some underripe strawberry characters. An element of a sweet mint – which may indicate Eucalyptus influence in this vineyard – but it doesn’t overpower an elegant, pretty style. Tannins are fine and very persistent, perhaps enhanced by oak with this wine, but in a seductive way for me.” Lange: “This was possibly the most unique with hibiscus, red tea and camphor aromas. The florals are more medicinal with dried lavender, dried rose petals and dried pine needles. On the palate, the elements are in balance with a high level of muscular tannins which are cleansed by high alcohol and sufficient acidity. Bergamot and Earl Grey tea are evident, giving a very herbal and exotic flavour profile.”
Grant included this in her top-six wines of the day. “Persistent fruit,” she said, “Very much in that amaro/bitter orange end of the spectrum. Some rounder red fruit at play as well – with fresh raspberry and cherry, without feeling too primary. Chinotto spice. Quite an Italianate line through it with some lamb fat and bone marrow plushness. Subtle mint – more in a raita/yogurty sort of way.”
“A compelling earthy and savory wine, opening with aromas of damp forest floor, dried herbs, and hints of leather,” noted Nadeson, placing this among his top-six wines for the day. “On the palate, it reveals layers of ripe raspberries, tart cranberries, fresh earth and amaro. The texture is firm yet velvety, with fine-grained tannins providing structure alongside vibrant acidity. The finish is long and contemplative.”
Kaigg-Hoxley and Ryan both included this in their top-six lists. “Many Australian-Italians can be a little bit wild, assertive, perhaps polarising but are great to have dinner with. This was this wine for me,” said Ryan. “There’s an edge of damp earth, herbal and almost funk that risks being too much but when it gets a little bit edgy, it kind of pulls you back in like a Lygon street spruiker with this savouriness, grippy tannins. A wine for the adventurous but a valid and engaging take on nebbiolo.” Kaigg-Hoxley wrote, “There’s something wild and a little green about this wine, which I am really enjoying. The wild fennel elements and glossy texture is beguiling, refreshing without coming across as astringent. Some cool mineral components, mouthwatering acidity and the structure is almost granitic, a mix of crushed rocks and morello cherries. After a few hours of tasting nebbiolo after nebbiolo, the freshness of the anise forward palate keeps me coming back, I’m yet to tire of it.”
“A nose that is tar and spice and rich, sweet red cherries, currents and just a hint of raspberry,” commented Marson in her tasting note, giving this wine a top-six berth. “There’s a nice synergy with the fruit profile on the palate too. It’s juicy and chewy again with a plethora of cherries, bright, fresh and ripe. Tannins are lurking with a noted subtly in the background, well coated by the dynamic palate. And there’s a lick of cherry spiced oak ever so subtle at the end, which with good persistence and length, makes for an intriguing wine.”
Pipan included this in her top-six list. “Quite a bright, vibrant, cherry red. Not one I would normally pick because of the initially reductive nose. But it kept me going back to it because of its great mouthfeel. After its initial broodiness, the wine ended up having succulent red fruit characters as sappy cherries and spice played on the tongue. A fun wine. Have with some mates over a shared charcuterie plate.”
“A more delicate nose, giving aromas of confected raspberry, strawberries, sandalwood and hints of graphite,” said Lange, including this wine in her top-six list. “Although subtle on the nose, the palate is vivid with sufficient acidity to cut through the firm tannins. Again, there are saline minerals which help flesh out the mouthfeel and carries the length on the palate. Probably the one wine in my top-six with the most evident oak expression with flavours of cedar and pencil shavings amongst the fruits.”
“This wine epitomises the classic combination of tar and roses, leading with intense aromas of tar, dried rose petals, and a hint of tobacco leaf,” said Nadeson, including this in his top-six list. “The palate unfolds with flavours of red cherries, cranberries, and subtle notes of anise, all underscored by an unmistakable crunchiness. Firm yet chalky tannins provide structure, while vibrant acidity enhances the wine’s balance and length. A prototypical expression of nebbiolo.”
Saturno included this in his top-six wines of the day: “Exhibits a lovely lift of cherry, spice, alpine herbs, anisette, and cola. It’s energetic and vibrant, showing a great core of tannins and impressive length. Flavours of strawberry and cherry are complemented by zesty orange juice acidity.” This wine spoke more of place, with lovely cooler climate herbaceous aromas. It would be suited to richer poultry dishes such as braised quail or duck. This seems like a newer wave Nebbiolo similar to those coming from the Alto-Piemonte and these really excite me as they show the diversity of nebbiolo.”
This was among the top-six wines on the day for Pipan: “This was a bigger wine to be imbibed with a serious, slow cooked haunch of protein. Hinted at cooler conditions with herbal overtones covering crushed rose petals, cranberry and dried oregano with liquorishy chewiness, lingering tannins to ponder over. Punchier than my other faves, showing a tannin and acid tension which so typifies nebbiolo.”
Merrison included this in his top-six wines of the tasting: “The light colour belies a convincing, complete and modern-leaning nose: glossy red berries and cherries, pot pourri, dust and warm earth—vibrant and welcoming. This isn’t nebbiolo at its most teasing and elusive but it’s none the worse for that. Fairly forward and charming, nebbiolo’s acidity and tannin plays beautifully off the effortlessly flowing, vibrantly juicy fruit. A pour-me-another kinda nebb that shows the charm of the variety.”
One of Italy’s most important grape varieties, most identify it with the Langhe, and more famously and specifically with the long-lived wines of Barolo and Barbaresco from Piedmont, in Italy’s north-west. Although it makes some of Italy’s most revered and expensive wines, nebbiolo isn’t widely planted, being somewhat dwarfed by dolcetto and even more so by barbera in Piedmont, and only existing meaningfully in neighbouring Lombardy in the cold and impossibly steep terraced vineyards of Valtellina. Nebbiolo is also grown in cooler zones to the north of Piedmont’s Langhe, such as Boca, Ghemme, Bramaterra and Carema, where it makes for considerably nervier offerings, which are seeing a resurgence of interest, perhaps partially facilitated by a warming climate.
But, for such a distinguished, characterful variety, Nebbiolo is not that widely grown.
Although its reputation as a grape capable of making some of the world’s finest wines, nebbiolo has not been planted around the world as much as similarly noble grapes like pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon. This has a bit to do with Italian wines, and in turn varieties, not having the same stature as French ones until late in the 20th century, but the proliferation of sangiovese around the world suggest this is not the only reason. As the small growing areas in Italy illustrate, nebbiolo is not the most adaptable of grapes, excelling in certain conditions but struggling in most others. Outside of Italy, Nebbiolo is grown sparingly, with smatterings in California and further up the West Coast in the cooler states, such as Oregon and Washington. USA and Australia are both still in the relatively early phases of exploring the territories with best potential, as well as mastering the complexities of growing and making.
In the mid-1980s, Carlo Corino planted nebbiolo in New South Wales’ Mudgee region, releasing the wine under his Montrose label. However, it soon became clear that the area’s warm climate was not conducive to producing high-quality nebbiolo. Since then, the tendrils of nebbiolo have spread to more climate appropriate regions of Australia.
While the numbers are low in volume terms (the 2023 National Vintage Reports shows production of nebbiolo was around 1/18th of sangiovese; or less than 1/1,200th of Australia’s shiraz production!), the passion for nebbiolo has seen it stretch to almost all corners of Australia now, from the Granite Belt in Queensland, to Western Australia’s regions, from Hilltops in NSW to Victoria’s King, Yarra and Alpine Valleys, Beechworth, the Pyrenees and even Heathcote, while the Adelaide Hills in South Australia slightly edges out all other regions for the most number of winemaker bottlings of the grape.
In Victoria’s King Valley, where Italian immigrant families turned more resolutely to commercial viticulture following the demise of the local tobacco industry, the Pizzini’s planted their first vines – riesling – in the late 1970s. It wasn’t until around 1987 that Pizzini planted nebbiolo, making it the first nebbiolo vines in the King Valley, and nebbiolos first successful step in Australia after Corino’s groundbreaking efforts in Mudgee. Today, Pizzini have 6 hecaters of nebbiolo, and make up to three bottlings of nebbiolo (vintage dependant), and King Valley has become one of the significant homes for the variety in Australia.
Australia’s most prolific nebbiolo vineyard today, Longview, in South Australia’s Adelaide Hills, has 8 hectares of the hallowed Piedmontese variety, with the oldest plantings now 26 years. “We think we might have the largest vineyard area of nebbiolo in the country,” says Longview viticulturist Chris Mein.
Longview’s deep dive into the variety now also boasts seven different clones of nebbiolo. “Nebbiolo is fast becoming the rising star of Hills reds. …Autumn fogs are a common occurrence during harvest, much like the conditions seen in Piedmont during their nebbiolo harvest,” says Mein. A roster of winemaking’s shining lights purchase nebbiolo from Longview: Elderslie, La Prova, XO Wines, Somos, Abbeville, Hills Collide, Spider Bill, Architects of Wine, Solita, First Drop, Hills and Back, and Varney Wines.
In New South Wales, viticulturist Dr Brian Freeman – one of Australia’s preeminent champions of alternative varieties – first planted nebbiolo in 1999, with plantings increasing meaningfully from the mid-2000s now have five hectares, which goes into their own Freeman label, as well as selling to Ravensworth as well as a number of other labels. Freeman now have seven different clones, but he believes how the vines are grown and cropped have more bearing on the quality of the fruit and wine, rather than the characteristic differences between the clones.
While in Victoria’s Pyrenees region, the Malakoff has for some time been a moniker of significant prestige for nebbiolo winemakers. Their first nebbiolo vines were planted in 2000, and now constituting around 5 hectares of the variety, with customers including the likes of Handpicked Wines, Lethbridge, Willow Creek, Shadow fax, Bowerbird, Praeter, Tar & Roses, and Latta. Owner Robert John notes that although the nebbiolo can be picked either early or late, making contrasting styles, the vineyard character is still a defining feature. “The style for the earlier picks is a lighter, fresh and very approachable and fragrant style, while the later picks show stronger flavours of spice, cherry and tarry characters. However, both styles exhibit our terroir showing a beautiful rose petal bouquet, which is very recognisable for all nebbiolos from our vineyard.”
Luke Lambert, one of Australia’s most devoted disciples of the nebbiolo grape, released his first nebbiolo wines in 2005. After a time of sourcing fruit from Heathcote, Luke made a change to Yarra Valley fruit from the 2011 vintage, beginning what would turn out to be a long and successful relationship with John and Simon Denton and their ‘View Hill’ vineyard in Yarra Valley. In 2017, Luke and his partner Rosalind purchased land in the Yea Valley near Murrindindi, around 25 minutes’ drive north of the Yarra Valley , which they have planted with multiple clones of nebbiolo and named the vineyard, Sparkletown. 2025 is looking to be the first vintage from the Sparkletown vineyard.
“After 20 years of working with, and thinking about the variety, I’m still trying to figure out what’s happening in the vineyard,” says Lambert. “We’ve such different conditions to Piedmont that a lot of those practices that are common place there just aren’t relevant to our big open blue sky and old acidic soils. It’s a vine-by-vine approach that really needs a lot of work on canopy and crop management. Unless those things are done correctly and at the right time, you’re stuffed. It’s maybe the least forgiving and fickle variety around. Give me another 20 years and there may be some firm answers here, but I suspect all decisions will still be made by assessing each vine as you’re standing in front of it.”
Nebbiolo is a paradox, a combination of elements that shouldn’t make sense. But they do.
One of the most distinctive grapes of them all, nebbiolo can achieve high ripeness while retaining lots of acidity. Unlike many grapes, the fruit doesn’t necessarily get become rich and sweet fruited at higher ripeness, usually looking somewhat savoury with ample grippy tannins.
Set against profound tannins, it can be fragrantly pretty and floral, as well as ruggedly mineral and dry toned – and often simultaneously so. It conveys nuance of site like few varieties, and it can produce staggeringly long-lived wines. It is like no other grape.
Nebbiolo can vary from pretty expressions that emphasise red berries, cranberry, red currants, sour red cherries and the like and classic rose petal notes, while more serious examples will often look more savoury, with dried flowers and red fruit, and spices like star anise, as well as being very reflective of the soil, with dry-toned earthy and mineral notes.
Our panel: Chris Ryan, Senior Wine Buyer, Trader House Group; Christina Kaigg-Hoxley, Wine Development Manager, 67 Pall Mall; Dr Ray Nadeson, Winemaker and Owner, Lethbridge; Madeleine Marson, Winemaker, Vinea Marson; Ed Merrison, wine writer and educator, Vininspo!; Katarina Lange, Sommelier, Botanical Hotel; Phoebe Grant, Sommelier, Cutler & Co; Paula Pipan, Winemaker and Owner, Pipan Steel; Peter Saturno, Director, Longview Vineyard.
“There was some terrific examples in that lineup. I thought there was a lovely purity of fruit in a number of the wines there. Really lovely varietal characteristics. Once you nail that, it starts to tell a story of where it comes from,” said Peter Saturno, opening the panel discussion, which came after the panel had spent the day tasting through the blind lineup of wines. “Overall, I think nebbiolo in Australia is looking terrific by that lineup, very exciting.”
He continued, reaching for his critical take of the least successful wines in the blind lineup of wines from around 50 producers, “There were a couple of disappointing wines. Wines that were probably left in oak too long, or had too much oak full stop, which is a bit of a ‘no-no’ in my eye, but that’s just my personal opinion. There were probably a few wines there that were showing too much ‘skinsyness’ – extra time on skins, and that’s always a tricky one with nebb, because you really have to keep on looking at it before it gets too ‘skinsy’. But it does work well with some extra skins contact.”
Paula Pipan replied, “I agree with you with the skinsy stuff – there was a bit there. And that is a real subtle ‘where do you stop’, because it does do well with skin contact – it reduces the bitterness in it. And it was great to see that it wasn’t all about texture.”
Nadeson added comments that the skin contact was more of an issue for ‘young’ wines, noting that in his winemaking at Lethbridge while they have 60-70 days on skins, they then spend two years in botti (oak vessels much larger than barrels), and then they have another two years in bottle before release.
“In the past I know that I’ve been reasonably dismissive of a lot of Australian nebbiolo, because I have seen it as reasonably one-dimensional, but this is really like blown my mind. Exciting! So many serious expressions.”
While Nadeson makes a nebbiolo with grapes he sources from the Malakoff Vineyard, he identifies as a pinot noir producer – with pinot noir being one of the grapes he focuses on at his Lethbridge vineyard in Geelong. He said, “What I think was incredible, for me anyway – looking at it from a pinot noir perspective, which I know I shouldn’t, but I think it’s worth talking about: considering how long we’ve been making pinot noir to get to a point where pinot noir is actually something that I think is pretty significant in this country, I think we’ve done this [make good nebbiolo] in double time. And I think that’s a killer. I mean that is truly amazing, actually. When I look at these wines. If I’d done a pinot noir tasting 10–15 years into pinot – which I have done, they were not that great – I certainly would have seen a lot of wines which I’d have gone, ‘I don’t know why would you bother with this.’ While here, although I think we’re at the beginning of the journey, it’s fantastic. I’m super excited. Those that are fully devoted to this [nebbiolo], I tip my hat to you.”
“These wines spoke of nebbiolo,” continued Nadeson. “I mean, not necessarily Italian nebbiolo, but they spoke of nebbiolo. Which I think is phenomenal. Out of the entire blind lineup, there was only a handful where I’d say, ‘what is this variety?’
“I remember going to the Victorian Pinot Workshops in the early days – this is going back 20 plus years – and they were terrible. There was a lot of terrible wines. And now we’d go in [to taste pinot], they’d taste pretty good – universally, pretty good. But this standard [in the Nebbiolo tasting today] – I don’t think we would have seen that 15 years in to pinot. No way.”
“They’re not dissimilar either, in the diversity of clonal material and the different flavours that brings,” responded Pipan.
“I was going to ask you,” said Nadeson. “I only work with one clone. Do you see much differences in the clonal material?”
“Massive!” stated Saturno.
“Yep,” answered Pipan.
“It’s huge,” added Madeleine Marson. “And I think that’s why it’s pushed forward so quickly – because there is a diversity of quite interesting and complex clones.”
“I remember going to the Victorian Pinot Workshops in the early days – this is going back 20 plus years – and they were terrible. There was a lot of terrible wines. And now we’d go in [to taste pinot], they’d taste pretty good – universally, pretty good. But this standard [in the Nebbiolo tasting today] – I don’t think we would have seen that 15 years in to pinot. No way.”
The sommeliers in the room turned to the characters in the wines, and what they thought was successful, with Chris Ryan commenting, “I personally like more of the red fruit, like that tart, sort of real pretty fruit characters – but that’s just a personal preference in style. I saw a lot [in the lineup today] that captured that. That sort of ‘tar and roses’ thing that people talk about – that sort of bitumen, sort of wet rock thing in a few of them which was quite engaging. I’d echo what others have said today: the wines were quite compelling… and aromatics! I think for me, nebbiolo is an aromatic grape. Obviously, you can get hung up on tannin and acid, but those aromas are what keeps people coming back to nebbiolo. They’re pretty engaging wines. Some wines definitely improved in the glass throughout the day and you’d like to take them home and continue the journey. I think they were pretty good!”
Katarina Lange added, “To me, classic nebbiolo comes from Piedmont, in the Langhe region. With the variety grown in Australia, it can still capture the same essence as you were saying – like there would be this aromatic complexity and the pronounced nose as well, like it really needs to spring out the glass. You know what I mean, it needs to be immediate. And I think tannin-acid really needs to be in balance. Either you’ve got those big tannins that you get from the variety, but then you need the acidity – or alcohol – to kind of cleanse the palette afterwards. Otherwise it just feels like you’ve been sucking on a tea bag, and it’s not necessarily a pleasant experience overall.
“So for me, my top six, they had all of that aromatic complexity – whether or not it was ‘typical’ or not – if they had enough complexity of herbal and tea and fruit and earth and ‘rocks’ as you were saying, as well as that fresh palate at the end, they would qualify as a top contender in my opinion.”
Commenting on the non-typical characters seen in some of her top wines today, Lange said she found, “Earl grey and beetroot, which is interesting for nebbiolo. Like bergamot and earl grey, that kind of like tea and herbal aspect – you don’t really find that in the Langhe. But I find that in some pinot noirs from Australia, and to see that in nebbiolo as well was quite interesting.”
Ryan replied, “Some of the wines in there that were so delicate were just beautiful. Really seductive.”
“Yeah, there was some really nice kind ‘by the glass’ sort of styles in there,” added Ed Merrison. “I don’t know if they were by-the-glass-prices,” he continued, not knowing what-was-what in the blind tasting. “But, you know, while people think about nebbiolo being a wine for the cellar, there are actually some lovely, up front, very very enjoyable wines. It has that tension that keeps you going back to the glass, but with the prettiness that makes it very beautiful. Yeah.”
“You know, while people think about nebbiolo being a wine for the cellar, there are actually some lovely, up front, very very enjoyable wines. It has that tension that keeps you going back to the glass, but with the prettiness that makes it very beautiful.”
“I think ‘for the cellar’ depends on the winemaking,” commented Lange, referencing some of the modern change of winemaking seen in Barolo.
“I reckon it also has a little bit to with ‘where’,” Nadeson added. “Within the context of these wines, some are in cooler places than others, and it’s fairly obvious that you can see that. Some of them had more of a richness of fruit, and that was kind of a surprise to me. Because I tend to not go for those richer styles. There was one or two in my [top-six] group, that I was surprised the richness wasn’t overpowered by just sweet fruit – there was enough other things. I sort of had to say to myself, ‘This is not Italian. This is Australian. This is OK. No, this is totally good.’”
“And that, for me, is where the tension is,” added Merrison. “For me, the acid and tannin is not so much about those things as being structural elements – but more how they keep it exciting. They kind of draw together that thing. It can be really pure. It can be so followable on the palate. It’s compelling. That tension that really holds it together, that’s what I love about that acid-tannin.”
“I love the contradiction with nebb. I love the prettiness, I love the savouriness. I like that it isn’t just in one realm: it’s not just a very pretty thing or a very savory thing, it’s got everything.”
Christina Kaigg-Hoxley connected the diversity of styles seen today to the consumer opportunities. “A lot of them are putting black fruit and meatiness and that like tar and sort of rocky element right next to pretty, super approachable, red fruited styles,” she said. “On one day, with one meal, you might prefer one over the other, and if you’re sitting in a wine bar you’re going to drink a slightly different expression compared to if you’re going out for dinner.”
“Just a question for the somms in the room,” declared Merrison, “I’m assuming most customers can almost smell your enthusiasm when it comes to the nebbiolos on the list?!”
“The good thing about Australian nebbiolo in the restaurant, is that it’s still a pretty approachable price point,” answered Ryan. “Like, Barolo’s expensive. Langhe is affordable – but you can have a conversation about Australian nebbiolo relative to Langhe for a price point. And most Australians can tip over to trying it with an ease in the restaurant.”
Saturno commented on how the wine market has opened to lighter framed expressions of nebbiolo outside of Barolo and Barbaresco, particularly from Alto Piemonte. “It’s a great thing that there’s more expressions out there to show people – not just from Australia, but everywhere. It’s a very exciting part of the discussion.”
“Passion really counts for a lot,” said Merrison. “The thing about nebbiolo, there is a real tangible sense that ‘I grow this because I love it.’ And somms: ‘I sell this because I drink it.’”
“Does that translate to the consumer?” asked Nadeson.
“I think it does,” answered Merrison. “There are things in Australia that punch above their weight because of passion and excitement, and I think nebbiolo has that.”
Saturno added: “People that know nebbiolo, love it. Us, as producers, know that you can’t just produce something average. You’ve got to know…”
“It’s too hard to produce without passion,” added Marson.
“Exactly,” continued Saturno, “You’ll get found out, and people will talk about it and go, ‘you’re no good.’ It’s been a really fickle market to get into.”
“I think we’ve done this [make good nebbiolo] in double time. And I think that’s a killer. I mean that is truly amazing, actually.”
Before her relatively recent role as a sommelier at Cutler and Co., Phoebe Grant grew up among her father’s Traviarti nebbiolo vineyard and winery in Beechworth, and has made her own wines under her Nature of the Beast label. “I love the contradiction with nebb. I love the prettiness, I love the savouriness. I like that it isn’t just in one realm: it’s not just a very pretty thing or a very savory thing, it’s got everything. In the past I know that I’ve been reasonably dismissive of a lot of Australian nebbiolo, because I have seen it as reasonably one-dimensional, but this is really like blown my mind. Exciting! So many serious expressions.”
Dr Ray Nadeson is the winemaker and owner of Lethbridge Wines. During a career researching and teaching neuroscience at Monash University, Nadeson founded Lethbridge Estate with his partner Maree Collis. He also managed to squeeze in a winemaking degree in his spare time. Since 2003, Nadeson has been focused solely on the estate, farming with biodynamic principles and making wine from home vines, select local vineyards and as far afield as Heathcote, the Pyrenees, Henty and McLaren Vale.
Chris Ryan is a senior wine buyer with Trader House restaurants, which encompasses Andrew McConnell’s suite of venues, including Gimlet, Cutler & Co., Supernormal and Marion. Ryan holds diplomas from WSET and the Association de la Sommellerie Internationale, is a French Wine Scholar and also Court of Master Sommeliers certified. He was crowned the Best Sommelier of Australia in 2021. Ryan also makes wine in the Yarra Valley under his Honky Chateau label.
Ed Merrison is a wine writer, wine list consultant, WSET educator and publisher of the Vininspo! website. Originally from the UK, Merrison transitioned from a broad career in journalism to specialise in wine in the early 2010s. Cutting his teeth in the Australian wine trade, he spent nearly a decade leading the education and marketing efforts at leading importer and distributor CellarHand, during which time he completed his WSET Diploma–named the Australian Dux in 2016. Merrison judges at wine shows and has participated in the prestigious Len Evans Tutorial. Today, Merrison uses his Vininspo! platform to bring a sense of wonder, discovery and connection to the world of wine, adhering to the journalist’s mantra of keeping it simple, relevant, relatable and interesting. He balances this with his role as part-time Editor of Content at Bibendum Wine Co.
Christina Kaigg-Hoxley is the Wine Development Manager at 67 Pall Mall in Melbourne, having recently returned from London where she was Assistant Head Sommelier at The Clove Club, Shoreditch. Kaigg-Hoxley previously worked as sommelier at Gimlet at Cavendish House, as well as Assistant Wine Buyer at Atlas Vinifera and Brand ambassador for Burch Family Wines. She is a recipient of the Sommeliers Australia Education Scholarship, a Wine Scholars Guild Educator, has a WSET 3 qualification and has worked vintages in the Yarra Valley and Margaret River.
Madeleine Marson joined the family business as winemaker at Vinea Marson and is presently completing her Bachelor of Wine Science at Charles Sturt University. In 2023, she completed two research trips in Italy, focusing on climate change in Chianti and Montalcino, as well as completing harvest with Paolo de Marchi at Isole e Olena. Her wine passions include Italian varieties in a changing climate and finding collaborative solutions to problems, such as the Heathcote Winegrowers project ‘Turning Green Waste into Wine’ funded by Sustainability Victoria, which has been a key part of her work over the past two years.
Phoebe Grant is a sommelier at Cutler and Co. It’s fair to say that Phoebe Grant grew up with winemaking in her blood, with her family owning Beechworth’s Traviarti. She credits formal vintages at Rutherglen Estates as being critical to her practical apprenticeship before launching her own wine label, Nature of the Beast.
Paula Pipan transitioned from a career in medical laboratories to winemaking after earning a degree from Charles Sturt University. She gained hands-on experience with vintages in the Hunter Valley, Margaret River, and Italy’s Piedmont, followed by full-time roles at local wineries, including Brown Brothers. In 2008, Paula and Radley Steel planted what is believed to be Australia’s first dedicated nebbiolo project in Victoria’s Alpine Valleys, establishing ‘Pipan Steel’, where they now cultivate three clones across 2,000 closely planted nebbiolo vines.
Peter Saturno is the winegrower and director of Longview Vineyard in the Adelaide Hills, a role he’s held for over 17 years. Born into a family with deep roots in wine and hospitality, Saturno’s passion was nurtured early on, influenced by his Nonna from Friuli. After studying Wine Making and Wine Marketing at the University of Adelaide, he gained experience in winemaking and wine sales, including a stint in New York representing top global producers. Today, he leads Longview’s 60-hectare vineyard, with a strong focus on Italian varietals, particularly nebbiolo.
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