Chenin blanc is the hero white variety of France’s Loire Valley, where it makes wines that range from vibrant and carefree sparkling numbers through bone-dry mineral powerhouse whites to lusciously sweet and practically immortal dessert wines. But the grape also excels outside of the France’s cool climate, being South Africa’s most important white variety – while also thriving in the heat of Western Australia’s Swan Valley, where a renaissance is in full swing. And it’s not just out west, either, with makers from South Australia also staking a claim on the variety, and exciting cooler-climate renditions starting to appear from Victoria and Tasmania. With the landscape having developed so much since our last look at chenin blanc, and autumn upon us, we thought it was an apt time to Deep Dive once again into this beguiling variety …
We gathered every example of Australian chenin blanc that we could find and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines. Below are the wines that made the panellists’ top-six selections from the tasting.
Our panel: Steffi Snook, winemaker and proprietor, Yayoi; Shannon Burgess-Moore, winemaker and proprietor, Grandis; Linda Stanzel, assistant winemaker, Kerri Greens and assistant viticulturist, Blanck Specialised Viticulture; Maxence Guéritot, sommelier, Brae; Georgia Limacher, sommelier, Yiaga; Sam Baxter, sommelier, Geralds Bar; Sophie O’Kane, head sommelier and venue manager, Julie Restaurant; Tristan Jallais, proprietor and wine merchant, Natural Science Wine & Liquor; Madeleine Horrigan DipWSET, wine educator and MW student.
From the Deep Dive
Discover more in The Outtakes below.
Discover more in The Outtakes below.
Discover more in The Outtakes below.
The Top Wines
2015 Brini Museum Release Chenin Blanc, McLaren Vale $35 RRP
This wine appeared in the top six wines of the day for O’Kane, Guéritot, Jallais, Horrigan, Limacher, Baxter, and Stanzel. O’Kane noted “my notes from the day have the words ‘YUM’ and ‘YES’ in two places, and in capitals. Chenin really draws me in with aroma – here we have some more tertiary characters, honey and honeysuckle, slate and whetstone, the smell of rain on a hot road, and of course waxy lanolin. The acidity has a mellow nature to it, the minerality, almost graphite character is more notable. Ripe white peaches and soft herbs like oregano and thyme. This feels elegant and well put together. She probably wears pearls.” Guéritot described “fruit that has been handled with a precise idea of what to do with it. An exercise in balance between oxidation, oak influence, ripe fruit character and soil. The significant oxidative influence does not lean heavily towards nutty expressions but is more felt through the texture of the wine and the fresh lift it provides. A very complete profile with intense fruit concentration grown with intention on a qualitative site.” Jallais found “vibrant, pretty and aromatic, this is such an energising and spirit lifting wine. Lemon sherbet, apple pie and crème fraîche immediately spring to mind. It’s fun – but it’s serious fun.” Horrigan noted “a lean, savoury-led wine with layers of toast and flinty minerality set against a backdrop of opulent ripe apricot and yellow apples. This is your ‘serious wine moment’ bottle.”
2024 Hay Shed Hill ‘KP Naturally’ Chenin Blanc, Geographe $30 RRP
Horrigan, Baxter, Limacher, Guéritot, and Jallais all selected this wine among their top six from the blind tasting. Horrigan said “this is chenin for adventurous souls. The nose leans oxidative with baked white peach, ripe green pear, roasted hazelnuts and earthy truffle notes. The aromatic complexity translates seamlessly on the palate, balanced by hallmark racy acidity and textural weight that weave through pops of honeycomb and beeswax. A stunning example of how Australian chenin can achieve gorgeous evolution, balancing complexity and finesse through thoughtful winemaking. For the contemplative dinner party where aged Comté graces the cheese board and conversation flows freely.” Baxter said “this wine is for the chardy lovers. The bouquet unfurls with expressed meyer lemon zest and peel, just ripe pineapple core, vibrant hay, fresh straw, cashew cream and a simple dollop of cultured cream. The palate is like biting into a fresh clingstone peach. Chicken roast, pork chop, or simply a good time, this wine provides.” Limacher found “straight out of the gate I’m getting charred apricots, fresh beeswax, flint and lovely ripe lemon citrus. Pretty, approachable and welcoming, it shows elegance, restraint and finesse.” Guéritot noted “a serious nose with a pronounced beeswax and pine resinous component. It’s a bold approach to the variety, but a very rewarding one.”
2013 Bella Ridge Estate Museum Release Chenin Blanc, Swan Valley $63 RRP
This wine made the top six selections for Baxter, Stanzel, Jallais, O’Kane, and Snook. Baxter said “this wine was love at first sniff. The palate exploded on the nose with compressed yellow clingstone peach, the juiciest mango you’ve ever eaten, dried Meyer lemon, kerosene, hay, pressed yellow meadow flowers, honeysuckle, baked cashews, honeyed crumpets, croissants, baked apples … this wine simply kept evolving. If I could make this a perfume, I would. Powerful, intertwining golden delicious apples and Golden Circle peaches. Luscious, baked and yet perfectly ripe, complex, with a nice tickle of sugar to round the palate off. It finished almost like finishing a sun-kissed mango, making you almost weep for one more sip. This wine is an experience!” Stanzel noted “the ultimate guilty pleasure. This wine screams eat some blue cheese with me! The ultimate sweet and salty pair. Rich golden colour with caramelised honey on the nose. I had no idea we made chenin like this in Australia, incredible.” Jallais found “deep and golden in the glass. Almond nougat and honey on the nose, dense thick and rich. This is complex and layered. It coats the tongue in every good way. Deep golden syrup scenes here.” O’Kane described its “gorgeous golden colour that immediately draws you in. Smells rich and of yellow sultanas and ripe sweet oranges. Given the colour, it could have some years on it – and the residual sugar gives it a great texture in the mouth. How fun!”
2024 Marri Wood Park Chenin Blanc, Margaret River $40 RRP
Limacher, Burgess-Moore, and O’Kane selected this wine among their top six wines on the day. Limacher said “Yes! An Australian chenin blanc to excite even the most devoted chardonnay lovers. This is a serious wine, showing impressive weight, texture and complexity, beautifully complemented by a playful lift of fruitiness. On the nose, it is vibrant, with ripe red apples, quince and a subtle hint of smoke and toast. The palate is persistent and well-developed, finishing long with lashings of sour apricot and spice.” Burgess-Moore said it is “clean, polished, and dangerously drinkable. Pristine perfumed fruit with citrus blossom florals and a wink of oak. Layers of lemon zest, melon rind, and a splash of lime cordial come through like a perfectly mixed cocktail. A flirtatious and fine acid structure with tension and purity. All about the balance, picked to perfection.” O’Kane found “alluring aromas of waxy lanolin – trademark chenin! There’s some reduction that gives the wine a minerality and energy, I find this so inviting. This wine reminds me how important temperature is for chenin blanc. It would be a pleasure to drink equally with fresh seafood as it would be with rich poultry that had a hint of spice.”
Snook, Limacher, and Horrigan included this wine in their top six wines of the tasting. Snook described “a golden dawn in a glass. This wine offers a bouquet reminiscent of rain-soaked daffodils with sunlit petals, intertwined with ripe orchard apples. A gentle breeze conveys the savoury comfort of salted crackers, hinting at earth and sea. On the palate, it moves smoothly with a silky texture of nectarine and baked apple unfolding like velvet, layered with the honeyed warmth of Anzac biscuits. Each sip leaves a lingering impression, echoing spring’s promise and sunny orchards.” Limacher said “woohoo! This wine shines bright. Firmly on the fresh, energetic end of the chenin blanc spectrum, it captures the experience of peeling a mandarin, with lime zest and yellow nectarines, plus a gentle touch of honey that never overpowers the present steely minerality. On the palate, it plays with texture and ripeness, a smooth ribbon that tingles across the palate, finishing playful and delicious.” Horrigan found “a gorgeous aromatically intense chenin that unfurls in the glass and hums with energy on the palate. Perfect to share on a lazy Sunday afternoon with friends, fish tacos and zero pretence – just good times and good flavours.”
2022 Pimpernel Vineyards Chenin Blanc, Yarra Valley $60 RRP
Guéritot, Jallais, and Snook selected this wine among their top six picks from the blind tasting. Guéritot described it as “an example that hits all of the notes that you’re looking for in terms of balance and intensity. Texture, ripeness of fruit, savoury finish, and a salty feeling derived from the amino acids – it’s all there. Fuller body with a fruit profile that balances between ripe golden pears, juicy apples, and the lanolin-like singularity of the variety. The acidity is indispensable to balance such structure and it comes out on the finish in a grainy and salty feel that brings a much-needed lift. A nice white Burgundy alternative at a much more affordable price point – a wine to take you through an entire menu at the dining table.” Jallais said “we’re starting the day strong with this wine. Soft gold in the glass. This is rich, unctuous and deep though still gentle and welcoming. Aromatically this reminds of a school bag pear, one that’s bruised, battered, and sweet. Layered, generous and most importantly delicious, with a brilliant underlying lemon drop quality and a hint of saline.” Snook found that “oak seamlessly integrates into the wine, serving more as support through texture and structure than as a statement. A savoury streak of salted plum runs through the palate, complemented by a subtle note of white miso. The finish is long and refined, tapering with fine detail.”
2022 Castagna Chenin, Beechworth $100 RRP
Snook and Guéritot chose this wine for their top six wines from the tasting. Snook described “a Chenin Blanc that glides in with subtle grace, its voice soft yet eloquent, like a whisper of summer orchard breezes. Nashi pear leads with procession, luminous and pure, drifting into a tapestry of bright ripe apples and lemon citrus. The palate unfolds this fruit song with crystalline precision: pear skin’s delicate bitterness adds a gripping edge, while lemon curd illuminates each sip. Lees subtly add texture, embracing the luminous fruit. A Kiss of Italian meringue, soft and sweet and pillowy, a dance with a saline, sea breeze-like thread, balancing the wine. Elegance lingers in every texture; fruit purity glimmers at the heart, the finish cleansing and faintly savoury.” Guéritot noted “a serious expression which plays around a more savoury-leaning fruit character alongside structure and texture. Medlar, citrus pith and ripe quince dominate the aromatics. Freshness and ripeness are in balance on the palate – one of many signs here of a judicious winemaking hand. An example of excellent fruit concentration and probably well-handled grapes in the vineyard. A testament to chenin as a high-quality and complex grape variety.”
Snook and Horrigan included this wine in their top six selections from the blind tasting. Snook said “the aroma begins with bright citrus notes of lemon and lemongrass, woven with some freshly steeped green tea and a soft floral hint of yellow daffodil. On the palate, it moves gracefully like velvet shadows, with a lively core of lemon and green apple. Beneath, a subtle richness emerges, lemon curd and yellow nectarine impart a warm sweetness, while a delicate touch of oak weaves through cozy spices like Biscoff. The acidity is finely balanced, electric yet restrained, driving the wine and shaping its generous character. It embodies balance and grace, where precision and texture come together in seamless harmony.” Horrigan described it as “intriguing from the first sniff, with bright guava and passionfruit pulp leading alongside ripe yellow peach and a subtle herbaceous lift. Not textbook chenin, but compelling nonetheless. The palate delivers tangy, just ripe stone fruit – peach and nectarine so juicy you’d want to eat them over the sink. Pure summer vibes. Crack this at a backyard barbecue with grilled prawns and mango salsa, where those tropical fruit notes can really sing.”
Stanzel and Baxter selected this wine among their top six wines on the day. Stanzel described “coconut, sweet cooked peaches and spiced apple – all suggestions that this wine has seen some oak, and possibly some oxidative handling in the winery. It hits all aspects of the palate with fruit sweetness up front, great weight through the middle, and rich acidity that hits the sides on the finish. A wine for foodies to pair with a glazed roast pork and apple sauce.” Baxter noted “‘Simply. Bloody. Delicious.’ These are, literally, the notes I wrote down as I was tasting. Golden Delicious apples and yellow clingstone Peaches are baked into croissants, with fresh butter, a hint of hay and yellow field grass. The palate imitates a juicy white pear and expressed mandarin peel, backed by a crunchy peanut and cashew texture, ripe and unctuous. This would be a fantastic pairing with literally anything under the sun – including a day in the sun.”
Stanzel chose this wine for her top six wines from the tasting, noting “this wine jumps out of the glass aromatically – you see both on the nose and palate yellow bruised apples and underripe white peaches, which give this wine a beautiful balance between fruit ripeness and freshness. Super approachable and more-ish on the palate – there’s a richness and hint of bitter almond on the finish that adds some complexity. There’s something here for everyone – a good happy medium for a riesling or chardonnay drinker.”
2024 Felix Caspar Wines ‘Ida’ Chenin Blanc, Margaret River $45 RRP
Burgess-Moore included this wine in his top six picks from the blind tasting, describing “big energy, no apologies. Open knit fruit expression, generous riper stone fruit and guava, lifted brine saline notes and whipped honey lashings. Highly concentrated across the palate with classic lanolin and lemon pith texture, acid pure, tight, and focused to bring it all together. A wine with power and presence, but purity with intriguing iodine and mineral nuances, almost salt lick like. Seemingly some high-quality fruit with considerable winemaking behind it. Serious wine, zero boredom. Absolute banger.”
O’Kane and Burgess-Moore chose this wine for their top six wines of the day. O’Kane described it as “a great example of how aromatic chenin blanc can be, but only if it’s not served too cold. Aromas of ripe cantaloupe and zippy passionfruit all in one, chamomile flowers as well. This is a wine of character, and is mildly reminiscent of esoteric styles from the Loire Valley – it may not be for everyone! The acidity and minerality on the palate are awesome, yellow fleshed stone fruits and golden apples, a hint of honey provide a good contrast to the acidity. It’s a good drink.” Burgess-Moore called it “versatile and adventurous. This proves that boundaries are being pushed. Captivating obvious ripe citrus skin with twinges of botrytis with hints of oxidised handling. All the wax descriptors you can think of, into a jittery acid line that dances with salty, pickled vibes. Skin contact swagger in full effect. Drink interesting!”
2025 Roman Road Estate ‘Volt’ Chenin, Perth Hills $25 RRP
Snook, Burgess-Moore, and Limacher included this wine in their top six wines from the tasting. Snook described “a tapestry of aromas unfurls from the glass: white nectarine, jasmine petals drifting in a spring breeze, whispers of white tea. On the palate, a symphony unfolds: white peach and nectarine entwined with silken white blossoms, buoyed by a crystalline acidity that dances across the tongue. Subtle tannins, reminiscent of delicate tea leaves, lend structure a gentle embrace. A subtle note, a kiss of residual sugar glows on the palate, reminiscent of the radiance that lingers after a first kiss. Laser-focused and graceful, the wine’s luminous acidity carves a path to a finish both floral and finely wrought, lingering like a memory at dusk.” Burgess-Moore noted “my most intriguing wine aromatically of the bracket, the conversation starter. Lifted orange blossom and jasmine, over waxy lemon oils and lanolin. A wildcard for some – very hard to emulate for others.” Limacher said “this wine is pretty and light on its feet, with super inviting aromas of honeysuckle. Balanced and expressive, it would shine alongside a scallop entrée.”
Jallais and Horrigan selected this wine among their top six picks. Jallais said “I might be wrong – and I often am – but I get a gentle dash of oxidative nuttiness that’s really enticing. It’s all soft sherry aromas and a bit of beeswax on the nose, while in the mouth it’s stylish acidity, soft honeyed notes, and a flavours of dried fruit and nut mix – think almonds and dried peaches. Super structured and different, but in a very good way – the kind of wine would be dynamite with an aged goat’s cheese such as Barossa La Dame.” Horrigan noted “deeper lemon hue signals something different here. This is confirmed on the nose – in the best possible sense – which offers vibrant layers of ripe orchard fruit, tart yellow peach and lifted herbal notes with a delightful pop of white pepper. The palate shows signs of skin contact with well-integrated phenolics adding gentle grip alongside bright orchard fruit and spicy pear skin. For the skin-contact wine curious.”
2025 Grandis ‘Unearthed’ Chenin Blanc, Hunter Valley $36 RRP
Baxter chose this for his top six wines of the day, saying “this wine is a snapshot of the quintessential intensity of chenin blanc. It’s powerful in expression, bursting with green apple, mandarin peel, green pear skin, and beeswax, delicately layered with marigold and passionflower. The palate is driven by a granny smith apple crunch, Textured, waxy and with a hint of hay, indicating its potential longevity. It finishes rich and nutty, making you pick up a second bottle in surprise. This would be such a chameleon with food – throw it with some spring pork cutlets, asparagus, crudo, sheep’s cheese … the list goes on. I’m definitely saving a bottle in the fridge for some spring beans! A perfect introduction to this wonderful grape variety.”
2023 Nocton Chenin Blanc, Coal River Valley (Tasmania) $50 RRP
Burgess-Moore included this wine in his top six wines from the blind tasting, describing it as having “a little sweetness, a lot of charm. This is your warm-day weapon. Bright quince and ripe red apple skin aromatics. Such interesting pine lime and desiccated coconut layers. A mouthful of pink grapefruit, lime peel and alpine herb zing leading to an off-dry finish that keeps things juicy and moreish. Think Alsace, but with a laid-back, ‘just one more glass’ attitude. A considerate approach to style and well-handled to bottle.”
2023 Pierro ‘Nunc Tempus Est’ Chenin, Margaret River $50 RRP
O’Kane selected this wine among her top six selections from the tasting, saying “from first sniff I knew I’d like this wine. It screams ‘gastronomic!’ – in that it wants to give all of its broad generosity to a plate of food alongside it. Slate-like graphite and petrichor, mineral aromas that almost make you think of riesling. The floral aromas almost take me to a rose bush, but they are nicely nuanced, subtle and soft. Green apples and slightly underripe yellow peaches that are maybe one warm day from being perfect. Mandarin oil implies texture as well as flavour and balances the energy from acid and the mineral characters perfectly. There could be a hint of oak here – coming through on the finish – which feels well integrated and gives the wine some maturity.”
2025 Harvey River Estate Chenin Blanc, Geographe $40 RRP
O’Kane chose this wine for her top six wines from the tasting, saying “again, chenin really just gets me on first sniff. A wine that really makes you hope that it tastes as inviting as it smells. And it doesn’t disappoint! White nectarines, wet stones and a fabulous chalky texture. On the palate, this wine shows itself as a great example of a fresh style of Australian chenin, a great marriage between primary fruit, rocking acidity and generous texture. The flavours really linger and the wine makes you feel fabulous long after you’ve finished your glass. This wine dances a line between the perfect aperitif wine – bright, energetic and appetising – or a wine to reach for with a light snack of ripe tomatoes, cucumbers and zucchinis that are finishing their season a little late this year.”
Stanzel selected this wine among her top six wines on the day, saying “you had me at ‘hello’ – ripe yellow peaches, white cherry blossom, and a beautiful texture. Lingering length and acidity that keeps you on your toes and wanting another sip. A riper style that reminded me of one of my favourite Vouvray producers in France. Great afternoon sipping, but also a brilliant call for the dinner table with a classic roast chicken. So good!”
Burgess-Moore chose this wine for his top six picks from the blind tasting, describing it as “chenin doing chenin things – and doing them right. Crisp green apple and citrus florals with underlying briny mineral notes. Generously weighty, perfectly ripe tropical fruits of melon and pineapple skin. Leading to waxy bronzed fruit palate giving layered creamy, pastry-like richness from lees work. All framed by a laser-focused acid line and structure that lingers and salivates the senses for another sip! Acid-heads, this one’s for you.”
Stanzel included this wine in her top six selections from the tasting, saying that it “drew me in on the nose – super aromatic and fresh with white nectarine and chamomile. On the palate, it’s bright, fresh and vibrant with beautiful ripe white peach yet fresh acidity that drives the finish. Some beautiful phenolics here also give it a nice mid-weight mouthfeel – but it has a clean, zippy and dry finish. A perfect summer, every-day drinking chenin!”
Guéritot selected this wine among his top six wines from the blind tasting, noting “a softer expression and fruit profile with a significant use of oak but one which doesn’t erase terroir and soil. I feel like this wine comes from an unusual region or site for chenin blanc in Australia, one where a hard sedimentary rock might be present due to the linear texture offered on the palate. That chalky linear profile and natural sharpness is welcomed to contrast with the round influence of the oak regime. Crunchy green apples and fresh quince liqueur exist aromatically alongside the round toasted influence of the oak and its buttery side. A true testament to chenin’s ability to grow and produce quality wines from a vast array of places and regions, particularly relevant in a country as vast as Australia!”
2024 Rusden ‘Christian’ Chenin Blanc, Barossa Valley $28 RRP
Limacher chose this wine for her top six wines of the day, describing it as “enticing! On the nose Granny Smith apples, apricot, ocean spray, slightly chalky with a touch of chamomile. On the palate, this wine is super-mouthwatering, punchy and bright – think fresh pressed green pears – and nearly salty, reminiscent of sake with a touch of rockmelon. An element of beautifully ripe peaches is woven with texture and freshness, super-moreish and versatile. Beautiful. Pair it with some sunshine and good yarns.”
Horrigan selected this wine among her top six picks from the tasting, saying “punchy golden delicious apple and ripe nectarine lead, with a pop of sea-breeze salinity on the nose. Wet stones and a hint of char and toast add intrigue. On the palate, there is a harmonious mix of savoury salted biscuit with concentrated fruit – tart green apples, fragrant white pear and tangy just-ripe yellow peach. The creamy mouth-filling texture is cut through by building acidity that crescendos on the finish. A wine with presence and character that are matched only by sheer drinkability! Save this for when you’re cooking something equally bold like pork belly with fennel, where the richness and texture can stand up to serious flavours.”
2025 John Gehrig Wines Chenin Blanc, King Valley $30 RRP
Jallais chose this wine for his top six wines on the day, noting “white flowers – think a combination of honeysuckle and chamomile – lime and apple with a decent touch of residual sugar: I’m all in for this. In the mouth it’s big vibes of juicy green apple and lemonade with electric acidity. This definitely feels like the fun, maybe even carefree, end of the chenin spectrum, and it’s a style I might not often go for – but I could drink a lot of this out in the sun. Throw in a plate of something salty like Chappy’s Chicken Salt Chips or some sardines from Little Tin Co. and we’ve got some magic.”
2015 Bella Ridge Estate Chenin Blanc, Swan Valley $44 RRP
Baxter included this wine in his top six wines from the blind tasting, describing “this wine is all about the delicacy and elegance of chenin blanc’s expression. A walk through a meadow and flower shop. The fresh lemon juice and key lime pith play second fiddle to Thai lime leaf, lime blossom, passionflower, marigold, fresh, wild sage, and wild spring grass. The palate is kissed by a hint of sweetness, creating a supple pear-like texture, with a citrus-dressed peach flavour lingering on the tongue long after the glass is gone.”
2023 Houghton ‘EV/37’ Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Margaret River $75 RRP
Guéritot selected this wine among his top six selections, noting “some funkyreductive notes reminiscent of durian and cheese rind to begin with. This character dissipates with the integration of oxygen and turns into an engaging savoury and salty coastal expression structured around notes of sea spray, fennel fronds, coriander see, star anise, and even liquorice. Where the wine really shines is on the palate. That expressive nose finds a stark contrast of elegance with a supple and lean mouthfeel that offers a crisp expression driven by an electrifying finger-lime acidity balanced by much needed texture and flesh. A singular example to share with wine-loving friends who are curious to experience or discover something different – and a wine that you can put to the test with such friends around singularly prepared oysters like Brae’s legendary iced oyster dish.”
The Backstory
Chenin blanc is the hero white variety of France’s Loire Valley, where it makes wines that range from vibrant and carefree sparkling numbers through bone-dry mineral powerhouse whites to lusciously sweet and practically immortal dessert wines. But the grape also excels outside of the France’s cool climate, being South Africa’s most important white variety – while also thriving in the heat of Western Australia’s Swan Valley, where a renaissance is in full swing. And it’s not just out west, either, with makers from South Australia also staking a claim on the variety, and exciting cooler-climate renditions starting to appear from Victoria and Tasmania.
While it has established a significant second home in South Africa, chenin blanc’s spiritual heartland is in France, with a history thought to stretch back over a millennium. Although South African plantings now eclipse those of chenin’s homeland, and their best expressions are compelling, world-class wines, the wealth of top examples still emerge from the Middle Loire Valley appellations of Vouvray, Anjou, Montlouis and Savennières.
Somewhat like riesling, chenin blanc is an incredibly versatile grape, making everything from racy, dry and mineral wines to opulently sweet ones, laced with botrytis. The pinnacle sweeter wines – though they make dry ones, too – mostly come from Vouvray, Anjou and Montlouis, while Savennières is associated with dry wine, though it is typically powerful, intense and age-worthy. Chenin blanc also contributes to sparkling wine, both the broadly sourced Crémant de Loire, which can come from most areas of the Middle Loire, as well as for, though to a lesser degree, Limoux further south in the Languedoc.
Also much like riesling, the best chenin blancs can age for a considerable time, with many decades not unusual, and a century not unheard of. The longest lived are typically the sweeter wines, with the qualities of the sugar paired with characteristically electric acid preserving the wines exceptionally well.
Photos courtesy of Swan Valley Winemakers, and photographer Frances Andrijich.
Chenin makes a compelling case as one of the great grapes of the world, and therefore a compelling case for it to be planted more broadly. The truth is, though, that chenin has struggled to live up to that reputation around the world, with it more often than not being overcropped and employed as a bland, high-acid contributor to generic white wines, either solo or chaperoned in blends. This has been historically true in South Africa and California, and also to an extent in Western Australia.
In Australia
Many of the earliest vineyards planted in Australia were done so with material propagated from the fabled Busby Collection. When he landed in Australia in the 1830s, James Busby brought with him a collection of over 400 different vine cuttings gathered from his travels in France and Spain. They were planted out in New South Wales, Victoria and South Australia with their genetic legacy still having a lasting imprint on vines and wine, but Western Australia has a slightly different story.
Australia’s second oldest continuously producing wine region, the Swan Valley, on Perth’s doorstep, was first planted with cuttings from South Africa, which included chenin blanc, in 1829, a few years before Busby returned to Australia from England with his haul.
Western Australian plantings with South African roots
Chenin blanc came to South Africa courtesy of the Dutch East India Company, taking up residence there in the mid-17th century. Jan van Riebeeck established the first Dutch colonial settlement, which would become Cape Town, as a waystation for the company’s ships. Along with planting other crops to restock the ships, Van Riebeeck planted grapes as a means of staving off scurvy.
One of those first grapes was chenin blanc, though inconclusive record keeping, morphing nomenclature and phylloxera make it hard to properly trace. Chenin grape was referred to as “steen” for centuries, and the name is still used today, though less commonly. It wasn’t until the 1960s that steen was formally identified as chenin blanc.
Synonyms aside, some of the first vines planted in the Swan Valley – and much of the material thereafter – are descended from those early chenin plantings, with no doubt the most adapted plants – after over 150 years in a similar climate to the Swan – selected for propagation.
Chenin’s Working-Class History
Chenin blanc became a workhorse grape for centuries in South Africa, with it often going to simple wines, and later, especially in the early 20th century, it was often distilled into brandy. The technological revolution that gripped the wine world in the latter half of the century saw the grape once again become a staple for table wine, with ultra-clean and fresh wines made with temperature-controlled ferments, cultured yeasts and a quick rest in tank before an early bottling.
Chenin blanc’s ability to produce large yields of grapes per vine with good acidity made it a fine candidate for this particular industrial revolution, if genuine wine quality was not much of a consideration. On the other side of the world, chenin was performing a similar function in California, with berries bloated by irrigation to make bountiful amounts of nondescript jug wine. And in Australia, its contribution was no more celebrated.
While the variety had little recognisable identity in Australia until the latter half of the 20th century – when simple fruit-forward expressions were varietally labelled – chenin was largely responsible for one of the country’s most famous and important wines, Jack Mann’s Houghton’s White Burgundy. It is easy to deride a wine that was sold as an economical everyday white, an opaque blend where vintage was more or less irrelevant, but it genuinely changed the face of Australian wine.
Above: Old Houghton White Burgundy bottles and labels. Opposite: 90 year old chenin blanc vine in Swan Valley, photo by Kate Johnson.
Winning the Open Class at Royal Melbourne in 1937, Mann’s take on chenin blanc began to destabilise the monopoly of fortified wines, which didn’t let go of their grip on the public imagination until a couple of decades later. That wine became one of this country’s most popular – later being blended with some semillon and sauvignon blanc, and no doubt verdelho – and it also saw to it that a decent amount of chenin blanc was planted, which is now a valuable resource for makers wanting to experiment with the grape.
The Chenin Revolution
Around the world, a kind of revolution is taking place, with the grape being planted again in large amounts in South Africa, and largely with a quality focus. The potential of those more youthful vines is also being shored up by the exemplary bottlings from old vines across a range of sites, which make it South Africa’s most prized white variety. In California, too, there is a renewed interest, if a little tentative, and in Australia, and principally the Swan Valley and Margaret River, that revolution is hard to miss.
“The climates chenin is grown in South Africa span similar extremes to those of Margaret River and the Swan Valley, more or less. It ripens well here, and on the best vineyards it retains good acidity. It works really well. It makes wines with vibrant citrus and nectarine flavours as a base, but it can go in lots of different directions, depending on when it’s picked and how it’s made.”
Nic Peterkin is the son of one of Margaret River wine’s great pioneers. Dr Mike Peterkin planted the family’s Pierro vineyard in the golden zone of Willyabrup in 1980. Each years since 2019, Peterkin has hosted an ‘International Chenin Blanc Symposium & Sausage Sizzle’, gathering around 60 attendees, “to learn about it in order for producers to make better wines and for drinkers to understand the variety in a deeper way.”
“It’s been a beautiful journey with Chenin Blanc in the past 10 years,” says Nic Peterkin. “When we started producing chenin blanc there were not many producers making it in the styles we are seeing now and Australian consumers weren’t really interested, we sold most of it to the UK where the South Africans had already established a market . Over the years through awareness, education and a group of new producers making chenin in styles that consumers enjoy we have seen an incredible transformation in the market and appetite for the wine.”
Peterkin makes wines in Margaret River under his own label, L.A.S. Vino, which he lunched in 2013. “In Margaret River, most of the chenin vines are between 20-40 years old, so they are mature enough to produce balanced fruit,” he says. “The cool ocean breezes lead to balance and acid in the fruit and an element of salinity in some of the wines that are produced. In comparison, the Swan Valley has chenin with lower natural acid, riper fruit flavours and older vines. A little more freshness from Margaret River and fullness from the Swan. Both regions make incredible chenin.”
Opposite: Nic Peterkin. Above: With his father, one of Margaret River wine’s great pioneers, Dr Mike Peterkin who planted the family’s Pierro vineyard in the golden zone of Willyabrup in 1980.
In his experiences with expressing the variety into wine, Peterkin says, “I have learnt that chenin can be diverse in style and in the vineyard is adaptive to a warmer climate. It retains natural acidity and pairs well with food. Older vines produce less but more balanced fruit and in the winery their are many ways it which it can be made.”
“There are lots of expressions around, both here and around the country,” says Vino Volta’s Garth Cliff. “It’s happening everywhere, but we’re lucky as we’ve had two very successful wines over the years – Houghton’s and Amberley – which means we have lots of mature chenin vines in lots of sites, from the Swan Valley to Margaret River.”
Cliff worked as a winemaker at Houghton for a decade before branching out on his own, making the most of what he saw as a somewhat underused resource of vines in the unglamorous Swan District. Chenin is a grape that he believes performs particularly well there, even if its home territory of the Loire Valley is markedly cooler.
Climate Control
“We’ve seen with a lot of classic varieties planted around the world, that they can do well in other climates; chardonnay and shiraz are great examples,” says Cliff. “The climates chenin is grown in South Africa span similar extremes to those of Margaret River and the Swan Valley, more or less. It ripens well here, and on the best vineyards it retains good acidity. It works really well. It makes wines with vibrant citrus and nectarine flavours as a base, but it can go in lots of different directions, depending on when it’s picked and how it’s made.”
The Swan Valley makes up about 30 per cent of the 400-odd hectares of chenin blanc plantings in the country, with – like most grapes – the Riverland, Murray Darling and Riverina accounting for over half of the vineyards, with 54 per cent, but when you add in 11 per cent from Margaret River, Western Australia stakes an irrefutable claim to being the quality heartland for the grape.
Photo courtesy of Swan Valley Winemakers, and photographer Frances Andrijich.
The other region that is typically talked about, though the volume of vines is obviously markedly lower, is McLaren Vale, with smatterings in the Barossa and examples from the Adelaide Hills also popping up more and more frequently.
“I work with varieties that have a suitability to where they’re grown, and also a versatility to how they can be made, that are receptive to different techniques and processes,” says Aphelion’s Rob Mack. “Chenin ticks those requirements off. I played around with off-dry styles, earlier and later picked wines, and even one blushed with a little grenache.”
Mack makes one wine from a vineyard in Kuitpo, in the Adelaide Hills, and one from 50-year-old vines in Blewitt Springs, which he notes is a cooler part of McLaren Vale. “Even though the Vale is much warmer than the Hills, the warmer years don’t stress the vines out, with no issue with natural acidity in the fruit,” he says, noting that while it may not tolerate extreme heat, there’s still a good deal of longevity for the variety. “The Swan Valley is a lot hotter than the Vale, and they’re making some very good styles. I think it does have a future, even as the years get hotter.”
Getting Cool
Ben Ranken, winemaker/viticulturist/owner of Wilimee in the Macedon Ranges also sees great prospects for the grape in his region, with the chilly climate more in keeping with chenin’s homeland of the Loire Valley than the path that has been hewn through South Africa first then warmer zones in Australia.
“We’re at 600 metres and cool climate,” he says. “I’m interested in it because it’s easily the most diverse grape variety that we grow: you can have dry, sweet, young, old, you can make sparkling as well – very few varieties give you that flexibility. I think it’s grown in regions in Australia that are too warm, and if we can grow it without adding acid, which we don’t for anything, then that’s got a big plus to it. And if you don’t get ripeness, it can go to sparkling, so you’ve got that flexibility.”
Many Ways to Skin a Chenin Blanc
That flexibility is something that’s not lost on any of the makers, with varying climatic conditions driving styles just as much as the sheer adaptability of the grape allows winemakers to experiment. Cliff, for example, makes an “old-school style” that is fermented and matured in tank, which he believes will age particularly well, while he also makes a high-solids, barrel-ferment style, a pét-nat and even one matured under flor yeast, in the style of wines from the Jura.
Mack also believes this diversity is a strength. “I think having a couple of different styles is important, rather than nailing down one style across the whole country. The Hills wine, I pick early, ferment in stainless steel and bottle early, so people can see the varietal characters. From Blewitt Spring, I let it hang a bit longer, then put half through oak with full solids, chasing texture. I make it like chardonnay.”
Cliff says that they’re not alone, with more and more makers testing the boundaries. He also notes that a careful inclusion of phenolics at the press adds a lot of character to the wine, building texture while not compromising acidity or skewing flavours too much, which gives winemakers another tool to build detail. “Chenin juice stays bright well into the press cycle, allowing us to press a little harder, adding texture to the wine. I want a bit more edge and flavour, and the wines age so well.”
Chenin blanc is unlikely to dominate the shelves of retail stores anytime soon, but the possibility of it growing into an exciting category in the short term is a very real prospect, from Western Australia at least. With mature vines across a raft of sites coupled with relatively low fruit costs, the possibility of makers of all stripes experimenting with the grape is an accessible prospect, as evidenced by Vino Volta, Remi Guise’s tripe.Iscariot, Nic Peterkin’s LAS Vino and Jo Perry’s Dormilona, to name just a few.
In South Australia, those opportunities are there, too, though more limited, and some of Victoria’s central regions, such as Rutherglen, have some vines – often from very established estates – but there is little bottled evidence to properly judge the potential – an interesting project for a maker with the right connections. It is in the cooler zones that we’ll have to wait somewhat longer, with makers like Ranken only just dipping their toes in the water. Nonetheless, the future is looking bright, with chenin having the potential for being one of this country’s most versatile and characterful grapes.
Above: Our expert panel convened at The Lincoln, Carlton (Melbourne). We curated every Australian chenin blanc we could muster, with sparkling and dessert wines excluded and all wines tasted blind.
Outtakes from the tasting
We gathered every example of Australian chenin blanc that we could find and set our expert panel the task of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.
Our panel: Steffi Snook, winemaker and proprietor, Yayoi; Shannon Burgess-Moore, winemaker and proprietor, Grandis; Linda Stanzel, assistant winemaker, Kerri Greens and assistant viticulturist, Blanck Specialised Viticulture; Maxence Guéritot, sommelier, Brae; Georgia Limacher, sommelier, Yiaga; Sam Baxter, sommelier, Geralds Bar; Sophie O’Kane, head sommelier and venue manager, Julie Restaurant; Tristan Jallais, proprietor and wine merchant, Natural Science Wine & Liquor; Madeleine Horrigan DipWSET, wine educator and MW student.
Burgess-Moore kicked off the discussion by noting that the lineup reflected the diversity of expressions that chenin blanc is capable of making. “I think it just showed the versatility of this grape variety – the whole range,” he said. “Going back to some of the top picks I had, there was obvious residual sugar there, and at the start I was thinking that the acid was quite streamlined. Some were dry, some were more talc-y or iodine in character – but it always came back to that nice sort of crisp acid line, that focus, which is quite enjoyable.”
Above: Shannon Burgess-Moore. Opposite: Linda Stanzel.
Stanzel concurred with Burgess-Moore, and noted that age added another dimension of diversity to the lineup: “There was so much diversity – from that earlier-picked stuff with a really searing acidity, to this beautiful ripeness of fruit while still having that acid line, to those sweeter, off-dry styles – but there’s age as well,” she said. “And it just shows the diversity of the variety, which is always really exciting for me as the chenin blanc lover that I am. I didn’t even know we grew so much of it, and made so much chenin, so to see them all lined up next to each other, and the quality of the winemaking as well, was really impressive.”
“Some were dry, some were more talc-y or iodine in character – but it always came back to that nice sort of crisp acid line, that focus, which is quite enjoyable.”
Baxter observed that the quantity of chenin blanc grown in the country would be less surprising to Western Australians, where the variety has a longer history than its outposts on the East Coast. “Other than Great Southern riesling and semillon–sauvignon blanc blends from Margaret River, chenin blanc is just the white you drink in Western Australia. It kind of acts as a more serious drop for a lot of people who don’t drink chardonnay, but they want that more opulent style. If you grow up in Perth, you will be exposed to a lot of aged chenin – twenty, thirty, even forty years.” He added: “I grew up just outside the Swan Valley. And you can pick up from your local bottle shop a bottle of back-vintage 2013, back-vintage 2003, for twenty or thirty dollars. That’s what you put on the dinner table.”
Above: Sam Baxter. Opposite: Sophie O'Kane.
O’Kane observed that the variety was not only malleable in the winery, but also a great transmitter of terroir. “There were a few wines that I tasted where I questioned, ‘Are we were tasting site here?’,” she said. “Like, is this salinity coming through telling me that it’s from Margaret River? Is this chalkiness that’s coming through on the next wine telling me it’s from somewhere else? Those mineral wines did stand out from the rest, and that’s cool, because it is a very versatile variety, but it does seem to soak up everything around it – whether it’s in the vineyard, or the soils, or what you do in the winery.” She added that this ability to ‘soak up’ winemaking technique was something of a double-edged sword: “For me, there were a few wines where I was like, ‘Well, maybe there’s a bit too much oak here?’ Those wines stood out for the wrong reasons – like they were saying, ‘Hey, I’m over here!’”
“It is a very versatile variety, but it does seem to soak up everything around it – whether it’s in the vineyard, or the soils, or what you do in the winery.”
Horrigan disagreed with O’Kane on the point of oak. “I think every wine had a very good vision about what it wanted to be, and what the winemaker was trying to accomplish stylistically,” she said. “Whether that was big oak influence, really tight salinity, or perfume, I feel like the variety adapts itself really well to a lot of different focuses.” This observation lead to a discussion about the different styles that individual panellists gravitated towards, and the question of varietal typicity. “I’m really curious about what each of us thinks is actually a ‘classic’ chenin,” Horrigan said.
Guéritot observed that the range of growing conditions across the world made that question very difficult to answer. “This is a grape variety that can be grown in the cool climate of the Loire and the much warmer climate of South Africa – it’s a somewhat more moderate climate in the parts of South Africa where it’s grown, but it’s still fairly warm. Seeing that the grape is able to express itself in highly sought-after ways all over the world, including Australia, is a testament to what it can do, and the quality it can achieve across a wide range of climates.” He added that, for him, the through-line for the best examples of chenin across the globe is a sense of balance: “I think across the world, where chenin shines is where the textural weight finds enough acidity to have a real lift and bounce to it – but not too much. So it’s really a grape that shines in balance, I think, no matter where it’s grown across the world.”
“Where chenin shines is where the textural weight finds enough acidity to have a real lift and bounce to it – but not too much.”
Snook argued that the variety’s Australian home regions were largely warm, but that cool-climate chenin is a growing and compelling new style for this country. “It’s pretty fascinating when you think that it’s a variety that’s indigenous to the Loire Valley – which is über cool-climate and wet – and yet the majority of chenin blanc planted in Australia is in regions where this variety shouldn’t exist,” she says. “Swan Valley – it’s hot. Swan Hill –it’s hot. Yet it exists in those regions and thrives in them. So it’ll be really fascinating in future, because you’re seeing smaller producers that are taking their love of chenin and planting it in cooler sites – I think it’s super-exciting to see that as the next stage of chenin blanc in Australia, really.”
Opposite: Steffi Snook. Above: Georgia Limacher.
The discussion then turned to the thorny question of whether or not the grape variety’s malleability might make it a hard sell for Australian consumers, who might not know what to expect from any given bottle of chenin blanc. “I think we’re at a different part of the journey, with chenin blanc – people have been drinking sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and riesling in Australia for a lot longer,” Limacher said. “And I think there’s that same diversity and versatility within those grape varieties – it’s just that people have gotten to know what they like a bit more, and can talk about it. They’ve got a bit more of a vocabulary and can say whether they want a super bone-dry Clare Valley riesling, or whether they want something with a bit of sweetness, a more traditional German style. So it’s our job to expose people to more chenin blanc. And the great thing is, if you get a table in the restaurant and half of them go, ‘I only drink sauvignon blanc’ and the other half, go, ‘I only drink chardonnay’, all you need to is say, ‘Have you heard of …?’ Because chenin blanc is so friendly in that way.”
Above: Tristan Jallais. Opposite: Our panelists at work at The Lincoln, Carlton (Melbourne).
Jallais concurred, adding, “There’s drinkers out there for it – it’s just that not everybody knows it that it’s for them, yet.” He argued that it was important to champion the styles that were made without large amounts of new oak or other expensive winemaking interventions, because that would keep the price point approachable: “There’s still a cost equation there when you have to sell it,” he said. “You’re like, ‘Hey, have you tried x, y, or z?
Okay, cool. You can get a bottle for thirty-five bucks or forty bucks retail.’ If that becomes sixty-five bucks retail, though, it’s a different equation. It shifts the whole thing when you’re trying to introduce new drinkers. And chenin needs, like, another hundred thousand plus drinkers to jump on board – so it needs retail, it needs spots on glass lists, it needs to just be exposed. And once people have that exposure, then they’ll seek out the wines that they’ve tried, and they’ll be like, ‘Oh, I tried such and such. It’s from McLaren Vale, it was amazing. Do you have anything like that?’”
Above & Opposite: Our comprehensive sampling of Australian chenin blanc in full swing.
The Panel
Steffi Snook is a Geelong-based winemaker and the founder of Yayoi Wines – producing small-batch wines characterised by precision, texture, and a genuine respect for the locale. Inspired by the Loire Valley, her work blends Old World sensibilities with contemporary Australian expression, emphasising chenin blanc and cabernet franc. Her experience includes roles at Bannockburn Vineyards (Geelong), Domaine des Closiers (Saumur-Champigny, France), and Peay Wines (Sonoma, USA), along with formative years working with Ray Nadeson at Lethbridge Wines. A background in Melbourne’s top dining establishments and wine distribution further refines her perspective, connecting the viewpoints of producer, buyer, and consumer.
Shannon Burgess-Moore grew up on a vineyard in the Hunter Valley, with his vigneron parents laying the foundations in viticulture and sales from a young age, and began his winemaking journey in 1998, just across the road from home. He has since worked with producers including De Iuliis, First Creek, and Hentley Farm Wines, balancing over a decade of vintages between Australia, North America and Europe. His qualifications include the Australian Wine Research Institute’s Advanced Wine Assessment Course and the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Level 2 Award in Wines. He is a regular wine show judge, a two-time Young Gun of Wine finalist, and a 2019 Len Evans Tutorial scholar. He is currently Group Winemaker at Tamburlaine Organic Wines, overseeing multi-regional production, supply chains and guiding diverse winemaking styles across the company’s brands, as well as the proprietor and winemaker of his own label, Grandis.
Linda Stanzel has been working in wine for over twenty years, and has worked in all aspects of the industry from starting in restaurants around Melbourne to working in an urban winery in New York City. She has been a wine buyer and venue manager for one of Melbourne’s original neighbourhood wine bars, worked in cellar doors in both the Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula, and somm’d in fine dining. Lockdowns lead her to expand her skillset outside of hospitality, and she took on some marketing and direct-to-consumer management roles with a couple of small wineries, along with finding ‘secure’ work the vineyards. Post-lockdowns, she did a stint in wine sales with her favourite importer – but the vineyard was calling her back, so she pursued her dream of doing a vintage in Germany. She now finds herself working alongside Lucas Blanck – making wines, farming vineyards, and running the back-end of Kerri Greens Wines.
Maxence Guéritot grew up in France, and possesses a Masters degree in Social Science from the University of Molde in Norway. He has worked as a sommelier at a number of fine-dining restaurants across the world, including La Chèvre d’Or (Èze, France), Pearl Morissette (Jordan, Canada), Koks (Ilimanaq, Greenland), La Dame de Pic (Megève, France), Amisfield (Queenstown, New Zealand), Alchemist (Copenhagen, Denmark), La Colombe (Constantia, South Africa), and as head sommelier at Riviera (Ottawa, Canada). Alongside these roles, he has done vintage work at Domaine Guiberteau (Saumur, France), Clos Saint-Vincent (Bellet, France), Zenkuro Sake (Queenstown, New Zealand), Domaine Hauvette (Alpilles, France), and Heroes Vineyard (Port Philip Zone, Victoria). He is currently a sommelier at Brae in Birregurra, Victoria.
Georgia Limacher currently works as a sommelier at Yiaga, Melbourne. She is the recipient of The Age Good Food Guide’s 2026 Katie McCormack Young Service Talent Award.
It’s no wonder that Sam Baxter fell into the sommelier lifestyle – between his childhood spent in WA’s Swan Valley and his priestly grandfathers secretly passing him sips of Port, it was a done deal. He found his love for wine working at a wine merchant in the UK, and once back in Perth decided to pursue a career in wine. Since moving to Melbourne, he has become a familiar face to the CBD’s diners, popping bottles at Hazel, Coda, Rockpool and Maha. In November 2025 he helped reopen Geralds Bar at its new Lygon St home, where he works as a sommelier within its new restaurant space, Parlour by Geralds Bar, slinging booze and serving cheese.
Sophie O’Kane fell in love with wine through side-hustle hospitality roles while doing a full-time desk job, then decided to pursue her passion for the subject. Since then, she has completed the Wine and Spirits Education Trust (WSET) Level 3 Award in Wines, worked as a sales representative for natural wine importer Vivant Selections, and as a wine buyer for Manzé (North Melbourne) and Bar Thyme (Footscray). She is currently Beverage Manager and Head Sommelier at Julie Restaurant and Cam’s Kiosk (Abbotsford), where she has a particular passion for championing small-scale producers and representing women in wine, anbd has commenced studying for the WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wine.
Tristan Jallais is the founder and owner of Natural Science Wine & Liquor – Melbourne’s first retail liquor store to stock exclusively Australian products.
Madeleine Horrigan DipWSET is a wine educator and communications specialist with over a decade of experience across Australia, Germany, and the UK. Her journey in wine began at her family’s Pimpernel Vineyards in the Yarra Valley, producers of boutique wines, where her passion for the industry took root. Currently, Horrigan is WSET-certified Wine Educator with Melbourne Wine School, and she also offers freelance wine communication services, including digital marketing, content creation, and hosting tasting events. Her clients include wineries, retailers, and wine publications. Horrigan earned her WSET Level 4 Diploma in Wines in 2019 and is currently a Stage 2 Master of Wine candidate, combining her expertise and global perspective to inspire and inform wine enthusiasts and professionals alike.
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