“Our site has traditionally been operated as a grower vineyard supplying larger wine producers,” says Chambers. “The main aim was to achieve maximum yield for higher profit. Over the last 30 years, we have redirected our focus away from high yields to high quality. The change in focus was inspired by a conversation with retired Chambers Rosewood owner and winemaker Bill Chambers, who told us that our vineyard sits atop the best soil he has ever seen.”
Chambers is the current custodian of the secateurs in the family’s Rutherglen vineyard. “I’m the seventh-generation farmer/grape-grower in the family,” he says. “I have grown up around farming and winemaking and have very strong connections to our home. Our farm and vineyard are incredibly unique, perfect for both mixed farming and viticulture backing onto a nature reserve that is completely untouched.”
“Changes in viticultural management from conventional to sustainable have had a big effect on our grape quality and water usage. Treating the entire vineyard as an ecosystem of its own has enhanced the capabilities of our red loam soils enabling our vines to access the nutrients they require to produce fruit of distinct character with bold fruit and soft tannins.”
The vineyard was first established in 1886, with the oldest vines currently around 80 years old, and an average age of about 50 years. The 15 hectares of vineyard that are planted to deep red loam soils consist of shiraz, cinsault, chardonnay, cabernet, grenache blanc, riesling, tempranillo and durif. That last variety, a Rutherglen specialty, was recently grafted onto older merlot vines, a sign of the times.
“Climate change has severely affected Rutherglen and this is evident in traditional varieties like merlot and cabernet no longer flourishing,” says Chambers. “It’s become obvious to us that we need to seek out drought-resistant varieties for the future such as durif, tempranillo, alicante bouschet…” That adaption, though, has long been a feature of the Chambers family’s approach.
The lakeside estate was bought by Arthur Chambers in 1924, just after the phylloxera outbreak that ravaged the region, which was subsequently reworked by his son. “My grandfather Peter Chambers re-invigorated the already 80-plus-year-old small vineyard into a 15-hectare modern, drip-irrigated vineyard with phylloxera-resistant rootstock,” says Chambers. “He was renowned for implementing new viticulture methods and techniques that others were slow to adopt. I was lucky enough to learn the fundamentals of viticulture from him before he passed away at the age of 69.”
That connection to history is important to Chambers, who works with his parents, Michael and Belinda, to further refine an approach that has seen the vineyard flourish for decades. “Now in an ever-changing climate, we have been able to continue Peter’s legacy, creating a fully sustainable vineyard that doesn’t depend on water inputs for yield and profit, but focuses on soil health, water conservation, carbon capture and mixed farming that result in lower yields but higher quality.”
That notion of sustainability is central to the approach of Chambers, with the viticultural side of the business having to stack up against their other farming operations. “Agricultural and viticultural sustainability and drought resilience have been the driving forces behind everything I do,” he says. “I realised early on that a vineyard and farm that cannot grow during tough years does not realistically make a sustainable business. A key focus of mine has been tying our mixed farming operations in with our viticultural operations so that they can complement each other and supply each other with resources.”
That approach has seen straw stubble from their broadacre crops spread under vine, trapping soil moisture and creating a cooling effect on the soil, which Chambers says can be as much as 10 degrees on their hottest days. “In 2017, I began sowing a mixture of forage cereal seeds – bennet wheat, crackerjack triticale, massive forage oats – in the vineyard mid-rows initially with the aim to provide extra grazing capacity for our sheep that were running out of green feed due to a snap drought. Through further research on cover crops I also started to focus on carbon capture, water retention, utilising the sheep manure as a natural fertiliser, and straw spreading.”
These practices have seen benefits for the business broadly, as well as positive environmental impacts. Cell-grazing lambs in 2-hectare blocks has improved weight gain in prime lambs while also reducing tractor passes to slash cover crops from four passes to one, which has reduced soil compaction and diesel use. It has also essentially eliminated the need for herbicides, while sheep manure provides phosphorous and nitrogen for the soil. The cover crops have also seen an increase in beneficial insects that help control those less desirable, while water uses has been significantly reduced due to greater soil water-holding capacity.
“Our family have always been progressive in their care of the land,” adds Chambers. “We have fenced waterways to prevent erosion and encourage regeneration of natural flora and habitat. We’ve enhanced and planted trees in our natural wetlands, nurturing frog, insect and natural wildlife populations, while supporting natural waterways.”
The impact of this holistic approach has been felt in the winery, too, with ferments cleaner and more reliable, resulting in less inputs in the winemaking process. “Further, the wines are showing more luscious fruit flavours and roundness on the palate,” says Chambers. “This means we can cut back on the use of new oak. The reduction in sourcing oak from international suppliers reduces scope three emissions and freight costs.”
Lake Moodemere was certified by Sustainable Winegrowing Australia in 2021, being the North East zone’s first. “I believe in sustainability through to my core and believe in committing to it,” says Chambers, who notes that having a rigorous audit of their practices was the best way not only to ensure their methods were best practise, but also to send consumers of their wines an unambiguous message. “It is extremely important to us to make our farming and viticultural techniques as transparent as possible. …Sharing and educating consumers about our process is always front of mind.”
Chambers notes that the connections he has made through the SWA program have been very influential, with few local peers following a similar path, his access to new ideas and support for his own regenerative innovations was a game-changer. “I have already extended my philosophy to encompass the whole business operation including agriculture and tourism. I’m now focusing my energy on carbon neutral projects with the aim of becoming North East Victoria’s first carbon neutral wine producer. This includes our farm, winery, restaurant, cellar door and vineyard. I’m really enjoying the process and look forward to registering our own carbon projects.”
“The big picture for me is producing quality produce from the land available to me that I can be proud of, while also nurturing the land and not pushing it too hard,” says Chambers. “Giving back to the land and soil is as important as its produce.” That approach has also seen an increase in the quality of the fruit produced, with less vine stress paying dividends.
“A complete overhaul of viticultural practices has seen us go from a very conventional vineyard to a sustainable vineyard,” says Chambers. “Some would call it an overgrown mess; others with more understanding see it as regenerative viticulture. Treating the entire vineyard as an ecosystem of its own has enhanced the capabilities of our red loam soils, enabling our vines to access the nutrients they require to produce fruit of distinct character. While we do not achieve the yields previously grown, we are now producing A-grade fruit that is free of stress and full of flavour.”
Please sign in or create account as candidate to bookmark this job
Please sign in or create account to save this search
Please sign in or create account as candidate to create a resume
