Building on the experience of his first vineyard in the Central Ranges, Jonathan Hambrook looked to the high-altitude cold climate of the Orange region for his next site. The viticulture at Stockman’s Ridge, planted from 2012, reflects Hambrook’s thoughtful approach. This includes a focus on repairing soils to the cultivation of a diverse 6-hectare vineyard planted with a density of approximately 3,400 vines per hectare. The selection of varieties is both traditional and exploratory, featuring pinot noir, shiraz, zinfandel, cabernet franc, merlot, pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, and grüner veltliner – the latter of which represents a pioneering planting in the region.
Jonathan Hambrook describes the vibrant natural setting of Stockman’s Ridge, shedding light on the thoughtful selection of the vineyard’s site that champions biodiversity and sustainability: “Our property still has about 10 Ha of native bush which we retain as a pocket in the area for wildlife and insect life to thrive. As with every agricultural endeavour, balance is key and insects play an important role in keeping the vineyard in balance. Our property vineyard is also split in 2 with our main water source with runoff coming through and around the vineyard. This water source is a sanctuary to plenty of wildlife and home to 50-100 ducks which make their way through our vineyard.”
Eschewing chemicals, Hambrook has used ground cover to out compete weeds. “In preparation for our new blocks we planted Caliente Mustard as it produces lush foliage that helps smother weeds, improves soil fertility and structure, and retains moisture. We did not spray any herbicides for our new vineyard and did all our preparations using mechanical means, and timing these for maximum effect.”
Hambrook reflects on the measurable results of such work over their young journey: “Carbon is a focus and while this is an ongoing process it has increased. When we bought the property in 2012 the organic carbon was low, around 1.2%. In 2021 it was at 3% and in 2022 it was at 3.8%. We have a target of 4% and above. While there is no measurable advantage to carbon levels above 4% for vines, it’s my aim to have them at between 4-6% which means we can hold more moisture in our soils and this will enable our vines to weather the more intense dry spells we’ve been facing.”
“We have been experimenting primarily with our grüner veltliner and pinot noir in particular over the last few years and have made several changes in the vineyard based on the three micro terroirs we have identified in both of our Pinot Noir and Gruner Veltliner blocks. This approach is distinct from generic row-based interventions and is informed by the specific orientation of our blocks, including the influence of surrounding trees and elevation changes.”
He elaborates on the targeted techniques to enhance fruit quality. “These adjustments have included selective leaf plucking and crop thinning – experimenting with much earlier fruit thinning this year, for example – to significantly improve fruit quality, particularly evident in our grüner vines over 10T/Ha. As a result of these meticulous efforts, we now boast two distinct styles of wine from our vineyard, both of exceptional quality. Our evolving strategy includes multiple picks throughout the harvest season to capture all the desirable characters.”
Hambrook also discusses how experimentation and adaptation have led to the development of distinctive wine styles: “Introducing unique varieties to the region, such as grüner veltliner, we have experimented with various techniques over the years – from managing yield to timing our picks – to produce a wide variation in styles of grüner veltliner. Our findings have enabled us to craft an exceptionally aromatic early pick grüner veltliner, evocative of the Wachau style from Austria.”
He adds, “A later pick from the same vineyard yields a more opulent style, benefiting from a touch of oak fermentation to create a distinct expression of grüner veltliner. Seven years of diligent recording and refinement of our vineyard practices have culminated in these two acclaimed styles, earning praise from among the best grüner producers and critics in Australia.”
Fully immersed in the vineyard, Hambrook has forged a dynamic partnership with the renowned local winemaker, Will Rikard-Bell, to bring a touch of alchemy to their wines, and some ideas to the feedback loop. Hambrook explains, “As the owner and founder of the business, my heart lies in cultivating the finest fruit possible. Collaborating closely with Will Rikard-Bell, we strive to maximize the potential of our harvests, tailoring our approach to showcase the best characteristics of each variety. Will’s interest in purchasing our surplus fruit aligns with our mutual goal of excellence, driving us to craft some truly remarkable wines in recent years.”