Crittenden Estate
Garry Crittenden started as a nurseryman, selling a chain of gardening stores to sidestep into wine. The first vines he planted were in 1982, which would become the core of Dromana Estate, and then somewhat later his own eponymous venture. Those couple of hectares, a doubling of the region’s land under vine at the time, were mainly committed to Bordeaux varieties, but a correction of course saw chardonnay and pinot noir planted, with the first pair of wines from the varieties coming in 1994. Dromana Estate quickly grew to become a beacon of quality for the region, with the ever-restless Crittenden branching out into a ground-breaking exploration of Italian varieties both from the home base (with now the oldest arneis vines in the country), as well as across Victoria. In his time, Crittenden also dabbled even more widely, co-founding Tasmania’s famous Tolpuddle Vineyard. When he left Dromana Estate, his son Rollo was Chief Winemaker, and stayed a little longer, but joined his father in 2007, taking over the winemaking role. He now runs the estate alongside his sister Zoe. The Estate Range celebrates chardonnay and pinot noir, both from the old vines and some sourced parcels, while the Pinocchio and Geppetto imprints celebrated Italian and French varieties, respectively, from around Victoria. Los Hermanos is a delve into Spanish-styled wines, while the occasional Oggi series indulges Rollo’s experimental whims.
A: 25 Harrisons Rd, Dromana, Victoria 3936
Ph: (03) 5987 3800
W: crittendenwines.com.au
Kooyong
Founded by the Aylward family in 1996, Kooyong was somewhat of a symbol for the dynamic growth of wineries in the region in the late 90s. Enlisting the aid of winemaker Sandro Mosele, Kooyong quickly became one of the Peninsula’s most respected producers, with the first wine released from the 1999 vintage. The 40-hectare vineyard, in the generally warmer subzone of Tuerong, is predominantly planted to chardonnay and pinot noir, with smaller amounts of pinot gris and shiraz. Along with Estate wines, and the more broadly sourced Quartier brand, Kooyong became famous for championing their distinctly different blocks within the larger estate holdings, differentiated by soils and macroclimate differences. Farrago, Faultline, Ferrous, Meres and Haven, the most sheltered site, all adorn single site bottlings. After having established Port Phillip Estate four years earlier, Giorgio and Dianne Gjergja bought Kooyong in 2004. Today, the two share the same winery – with wines now made by Glen Hayley – as well as the majestic cellar door and restaurant at Port Phillip Estate.
A: 263 Red Hill Rd, Red Hill South VIC 3937
Ph:(03) 5989 4444
W: kooyongwines.com.au
Main Ridge Estate
Nat and Rosalie White bought an old lemon orchard in 1975 at Red Hill, with plantings commencing the following year. The first commercial release was in 1981, with three wines from the 1980 vintage, a pinot meunier, pinot noir and cabernet. Those first plantings consisted of seven varieties, with, much like the rest of the Peninsula, pinot noir and chardonnay eventually eclipsing lesser performers, like cabernet. Main Ridge always remained compact, and they have proudly worn their size on their sleeve, with the most celebrated wines being their ‘Acre’ and ‘Half Acre’ pinots. Nat White became somewhat of a Peninsula legend and mentor to many (including Moorooduc Estate’s Rick McIntyre), and the wines some of the most sought after and praised. The Whites sold MRE in 2017 to the Sexton Family, who very much celebrate the history and tradition of the estate, while working tirelessly on tweaking the detail. The cellar door offers simple shared lunches matched to estate wine, with stunning views of the vineyard and surrounding bushland.
A: 80 William Rd, Red Hill VIC 3937
Ph:(03) 5989 2686
W: mre.com.au
Moorooduc Estate
In the tradition of medical professionals founding wineries, Dr Richard McIntyre and his wife Jill first planted their site in 1983. That piece of land was deemed fit by Garry Crittenden, who McIntyre was shopping with for vineyard land. Crittenden had just purchased the first site for what would become Dromana Estate, and McIntyre’s 5 acres were purchased soon after. Moorooduc Estate had a typically bet-hedging range of varieties to begin with, including cabernet, but pinot noir quickly become the focus of the estate. With a fascination for all that ferments, McIntyre is also a renowned bread baker, turning out sourdough loaves from his Alan Scott oven that are simply legendary (yes, you can buy them, too). That interest spurred a foray into employing native yeasts in his winemaking, which was at a time when pretty much every Australian winery was using cultured yeast. That first wine was in 1996, and it led to a revolution. Today, Moorooduc Estate makes several tiers of chardonnay and pinot noir, including from a couple of notable vineyards, one neighbouring as well as the hallowed Robinson vineyard in Tuerong. Kate McIntyre, Richard and Jill’s daughter also helps steer the estate, and she just happens to be a Master of Wine. And although Jill used to cook her stunning food for weekend lunches, you’ll need to join the mailing list to partake in her occasional series of winery lunches – well worth it.
A: 501 Derril Rd, Moorooduc VIC 3933
Ph:(03) 5971 8506
W: moorooducestate.com.au
Paringa Estate
Lindsay McCall is a school teacher turned vigneron, first planting his iconic estate in 1985. The site, in Red Hill, is planted with 10 hectares of vines with a more or less northerly aspect arrayed across a natural amphitheatre of red volcanic soil. Starting with more of a fruit salad of varieties, McCall has replanted and grafted the vineyard to now only contain the region’s strongest suits, pinot noir, chardonnay, pinot gris and shiraz. And though Paringa has become widely celebrated for its detailed and muscular expression of pinot noir, McCall has long been a champion of elegant shiraz from the region. Over the years, there would be few pinots that would have collected more wine show accolades than Paringa’s Estate wine (and Reserve), quite an achievement for a wine that was first made in an old fish tank. That was McCall’s first vintage in 1987, when the 140 kg yield proved too much for the old milk vat he had bought. A winery followed in 1998. With a restaurant a year later. Today, McCall is expanding his vineyard onto an adjoining property, and he leases and manages another five sites. The range comprises both single site wines from his mature vines, as well as regional blends at the entry level.
A:Paringa Rd, Red Hill South VIC 3937
Ph:(03) 5989 2669
W: paringaestate.com.au
Stonier
First planted by Brian Stonier in 1978 to chardonnay, then in 1982 to pinot noir, Stonier is one of the pioneering producers of the region. It was also one of the first ones to get the varietal mix right, with perhaps Brian Stonier’s love for Champagne more the guiding principle rather than him being privy to better climate data. In fact, the vineyard was very much a hobby to begin with, but success pushed the operation in a different direction, and the Stonier name became synonymous with both the Peninsula and pinot noir, in particular. International acclaim followed, with a number of prestigious trophies, and Brian Stonier became an evangelist for pinot noir in the New World, spreading the word and educating through his annual SIPNOT tastings. Although the brand was sold some years ago, the operation continues very much in the same vein, with highly respected winemaker/viticulturist Mike Symonds and winemaker Will Byron maintaining the reputation as one of the region’s best producers. Interestingly, while many producers have diversified, Stonier have stuck to their guns, still only making chardonnay and pinot noir.
A:2 Thompsons Ln, Merricks VIC 3916
Ph: (03) 5989 8300
W: stonier.com.au
