When owners David LeMire MW, Michael Hill Smith MW, Martin Shaw and Adam Wadewitz went searching for a vineyard to acquire, old to ancient grenache and chenin blanc vines were in their sights. That was not just to act as a point of difference to their existing portfolio, but also due to experimentation through The Other Wine Co. label, and especially with old vine McLaren Vale grenache.
When an opportunity arose to purchase a significantly mature 18-hectare vineyard in the sandy soils of Blewitt Springs – somewhat of a spiritual home for Australian grenache – with 80-year-old grenache and 60-year-old chenin blanc vines on it, the quartet didn’t hesitate.
“The maslin sands of Blewitt Springs provide a point of difference to McLaren Vale as a whole,” says vineyard manager Ben Jonas. “These sands are perfectly suited to grenache, giving wines with vibrant fruit character and perfume. Add in old vines and underlying clay and ironstone, and the potential for complex wines that are distinct in their expression of place is endless.”
The MMAD Vineyard is an old one, with the most senior vines planted in 1939, but it also reflects a very modern sensibility, with the heroing of two grape varieties that not long ago were decidedly unfashionable. Things have certainly changed, though, with grenache on one of Australian wine’s most exciting trajectories, while chenin is also making waves, with McLaren Vale seen as prime territory for the grape.
“Blewitt Springs sits at an elevation of 190 metres with proximity to the sea,” says Jonas. “Chenin blanc is suited to the larger diurnal fluctuation this provides, enabling natural acidity to be maintained while developing fruit character. Higher natural acidity, fruit complexity and sand-derived texture create layers and interest in the chenin blanc from the region.”
“The maslin sands of Blewitt Springs provide a point of difference to McLaren Vale as a whole.”
The oldest vines on the property are all grenache, planted back when fortified wine was the order of the day and grenache was a key ingredient. Shiraz followed in 1941, then again in 1990, while chenin blanc was first planted in 1964, and interestingly again in 2000 – there was no particular boom for chenin back then, so perhaps earlier plantings had simply proved their suitability in a warm region that is generally lacking for white varieties.
Cabernet sauvignon was planted in 1994, although it is likely to be removed or go the way of the pinot noir and chardonnay that once graced the vineyard but have been grafted. “We have chenin blanc, grenache, and shiraz, all old vines, which we see as being really well suited to the site,” says Jonas. “There is also cabernet sauvignon that we think is good but not great, and therefore not part of our long-term future. We have also taken out merlot, which again had less quality potential.”
Even with the stunning rise of grenache, shiraz remains the Vale’s most planted variety, and by some margin. And although it was not the target variety for the four owners, who were somewhat more focused on its potential in the Adelaide Hills, the site turned out to produce an exciting regional expression.
“Shiraz provides an interesting point of difference in Blewitt Springs. The elevation and lighter, less-fertile soils allow for fruit density that is balanced with natural acidity, which can be lighter in weight yet remain complex and of high interest.”
“Shiraz provides an interesting point of difference in Blewitt Springs,” says Jonas. “The elevation and lighter, less-fertile soils allow for fruit density that is balanced with natural acidity, which can be lighter in weight yet remain complex and of high interest.”
All the old vines are now dry grown – with dam water only scheduled for use with any new plantings – though the scars of overirrigation remain. “Mismanagement of water use prior resulted in salinity issues throughout portions of the vineyard,” says Jonas. “Establishing interception drainage trenches throughout these portions is allowing water percolation deeper into the soil profile, hence flushing out accumulated salts from years of irrigation applications.”
This process has regenerative farming practices at its core, but the central pursuit of wine quality underpins all actions. “Bringing vines into balance has allowed an expression of site and terroir,” Jonas says. “Moderating canopy density and excluding irrigation has allowed the old vines to self-moderate crop load, resulting in fruit that has complexity in flavour balanced with natural acidity.”
The new processes have paid many tangible dividends, with Jonas noting that the vineyard is healthier and more consistent in respect to crop loads and ripening. “Anecdotally, we have seen more evenness across the vineyard in the 2022 season with our farming for the full season. The wines have an improved depth of flavour and riper tannins. And as we understand blocks more, we can respond better to the fruit in the winery.”
Winter pruning and shoot thinning early in the season for lower yields and improved fruit and wine quality has also increased vine health, with more balanced and open canopies and a lessening of the need for inputs of fertiliser and water, while also reducing disease risks. Non-vineyard land is also being regenerated to encourage biodiversity, which results in attracting beneficial insects that can help combat pest populations naturally.
That long-term thinking around making the vineyard more naturally sustainable and resilient extends to working with the seasons to plan for those to come. “Focusing on seasonal climatic trends to best position the vineyard for subsequent seasons will be paramount,” says Jonas. “Capitalising on wet seasons to build soil biomass – microbial and vegetative – will position the landscape to endure drought and other extreme weather events.”
The new farming methodology has also seen a program of mulching introduced, beginning with the oldest vines, to suppress weeds, retain soil moisture and increase organic matter in the soil. Cover crops and microbial inoculants also help with organic matter and the strengthening of fungal and bacterial microbiology in the soil. Synthetic inputs have also been eliminated on the path to commence organic conversion. “Soil management is integral to setting our vineyard up for the future,” says Jonas. “Sustainability for us is about minimising inputs. Building soil health is key to reducing inputs to maintain healthy vines.”
The MMAD project is a youthful one, but with a deep resource of combined experience and a clear vision to make wines that express variety, region and a special site through farming in a sustainable and regenerative manner, it is one that is designed to make an indelible mark, embracing both history and progress. “Our viticulture and winemaking team work closely together with grape and wine quality being the overarching principle that guides all decisions made,” says Jonas.
“It is a privilege to be a custodian of these heritage vines, striving to sustain such a precious resource and support them to continue their role as Blewitt Springs stalwarts into the future. And it’s a sentiment that is shared by all involved in the management of the vines and the winemaking. We have so much respect for the character and resilience of these vines. Pondering the seasons and people that have moulded the vines into the gnarly shapes they are today also provides ongoing intrigue.”
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