In 2011, the brothers Hughes set up their vineyard south of Hobart in the tiny hamlet of Flowerpot in Tasmania’s D’Entrecasteaux Channel subregion. Jonathan has worked as a winemaker around the world, but he had been moored at Moorilla Estate when Matthew’s suggestion to tip in and buy an old cherry orchard was eagerly taken up, with 2 hectares of vines planted that same year.
Those first plantings included five clones of pinot noir, four of chardonnay, four of riesling and a third of a hectare of shiraz, which was solely planted to the old Tahbilk clone. On north-facing slopes of sandy loam over a clay subsoil, the vineyard was structured in a way to make the most informed future judgements about how clones and varieties performed across different aspects, elevations and variations in soil.
“The 3.6 ha we currently have producing is broken up into 12 distinct blocks. When clonal variation is taken into account we’re looking at 42 distinct parcels! When 2023’s new planting comes online – on a different hill with different soils and different clones – we add another three blocks and 9 distinct parcels into the mix.”
In 2017–18, additional clones of pinot noir and riesling were planted based on some of the findings, as well as to further investigate suitability. Today, there are about 5.2 hectares under vine, with individual parcels of clones vinified separately to make definitive judgements about what works, and what doesn’t. Pinot noir’s fabled Abel clone was added in ’18, while the new ENTAV-INRA 828 and 943 clones were planted along with the more familiar 667. A further vineyard addition is about to be undertaken.
While 1.6 hectares were recently added in 2023. McLean works with Jonny (as he is known) Hughes to manage the farming, with the pair working to tailor their approach to the specific nuances of the site. “The 3.6 ha we currently have producing is broken up into 12 distinct blocks” says McLean. “When clonal variation is taken into account we’re looking at 42 distinct parcels! When 2023’s new planting comes online – on a different hill with different soils and different clones – we add another three blocks and 9 distinct parcels into the mix. Where possible many of these parcels are picked and vinified individually so even before Jonny gets to play with the fruit in the winery we have some incredible diversity in the mix.”
The site has irrigation, but seasonal rains are typically sufficient, with a dam as backup in drier years. A cellar door and winery were also built onsite, adding a layer of control and economic stability. That economic viability is also built around working closely with neighbouring vineyards, producers and business “to add to the epicurean experience of the region”, with the aim of making it a tourism destination of varied appeal and depth.
This connects to the broader aspects of sustainability, as Hughes points out, “Creating a healthy environment for our vines to grow and our people to work makes the whole enterprise more sustainable. To do this we are focusing on regenerating soil health and surrounding bush land, spraying less chemicals as well as providing a safe and happy workplace/venue for the public to visit. Growing better fruit allows us to make premium wine and draw tourism to our newly built cellar door space adding another income stream and drawing more people to the region as a whole. Where possible we use local labour and contractors to sustain our community. We work with other growers in the region to grow and improve the region as a whole. We have built a winery on site which eliminates transport of our fruit and gives us full control from start to finish of the process.”
As a winemaker, Hughes as priority on growing wines from the vineyard – valuing how healthy soils actually translates to better fermentations in the winery. “From the very start the idea of healthy soil, healthy vines, healthy fruit set the tone for our wines. We’ve never inoculated, never fined. If we get the growing right, the hope is we can take a step back in the winery.”
“From the very start the idea of healthy soil, healthy vines, healthy fruit set the tone for our wines. We’ve never inoculated, never fined. If we get the growing right, the hope is we can take a step back in the winery.”
The focus on soil health has not only paid off in the winery, but can be measured in the vineyard too. “When we first got onto our site back in 2011 we had a soil ecologist run her eye over our soils. The results were a little confronting,” begins Hughes, “We had basically no fungi in the ground. The count was 10:1 (bacteria:fungi). Over the ensuing few years we aggressively attacked the problem with compost teas and undervine mulching at the core of the response. Within four seasons we had driven the ratio up to (1:5).
Part of the approach is working with nature to combat pests, rather than chemicals, in a ‘biological control’ program. “We share this site with resident sea eagles, brown falcons, wedge tailed eagles and myriad other birds and native fauna,” notes McLean. “Maintaining roosting sites and habitat around the vineyard and establishing insectaries of native vegetation to keep the pollinators happy, ensures that the native systems that vineyard health relies on stay healthy too.”
The results are paying off, with the Metwsone wines (ranging from $55-$135) in high demand. Hughes recalls the first time he visited the property with his brother and business partner, Matthew. “Matt and I walked onto the property and Matt said, ‘Do you think we can grow good grapes here?’ My answer was, ‘Yep, I think we can grow great grapes here!’ The rest, as they say, is history. I’m sure there was lots of discussion that followed but the decision really was a leap of faith.”
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