A super-smart dining destination with Portuguese and French flavours, Bibo also has a list of rare depth and detail for those wine obsessed. Go big or snack and work your way through the extensive by-the-glass list.
The tone at Bibo is decidedly moody, conspiratorial even, with dark timber marble and textured wallpaper down-lit with matt black, gold-lined pendants and, at night, a flickering sea of candlelight. There’s an open-air terrace that takes as many patrons as inside (40-odd in each), and a private room upstairs that can accommodate 40 diners.
Although sommelier Louella Mathews and team are always on hand with insightful commentary on the 400-strong list, a handful of thoughtful descriptors are offered on the 30-odd wines by the glass (with Coravin used for some of the more aspirational offerings), neatly snapshotting flavour profile and style. The list has an even split of domestic and international drops, with notable vintage depth right across the board, thanks mainly to Paul’s cellar. While there’s ample acknowledgement of skin-contact whites and ‘natural’ wines amongst the pages, it’s fair to say the list has more of a classical bent.
“We have a chalkboard for our wines of the day designed for people who walk in and perch up at the bar ready to go on a wine adventure,” says Mathews. “This can be anything from a classic Mornington pinot gris to a new skin-contact wine to a glass of Brunello di Montalcino.”
The food is Silva’s chance to reflect his Portuguese heritage in a new context – tradition bent to whim and circumstance. Staples include smoked mackerel pâté with toasted grandma’s bread and bacalhau croquettes, but with Nick Schell taking on the head chef role, alongside Silva, the menu has also taken on a French lean as well as a greater emphasis on the provenance of ingredients, with farmers and suppliers credited on the menu. But it is perhaps those most emblematic of Portuguese pastries, pastéis de nata, or as we know them more generically, Portuguese tarts that are the most immovable menu item. Silva is also the owner of Sweet Belem, which is home to arguably Sydney’s best Portuguese tarts, with those burnished flaky morsels providing punctuation to the end of the menu, with or without cinnamon ice cream.
Nomad’s fire-charged, produce-first cooking turned many heads back in 2013 when it burst onto the scene. Eight years later and the grill has doubled in size, as has the wine list, while the commitment to sustainability has never been stronger. Plenty more reasons to go – if you needed them.
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An offshoot of Potts Point’s much-loved Fratelli Paradiso, 10 William St shed the skin of modern Australian-Italian dining with a push away from fried calamari with rocket et al, delving into a new form of Italian experimentation. Respectful and subtle experimentation, that is. And while Fratelli Paradiso has long stuck to a wine list that…
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