Victoria Archives - Young Gun of Wine

Yeringberg Vineyard, Yarra Valley

Located along the ‘Golden Mile’ of the Coldstream subregion of the Yarra Valley, the Yeringberg farm encompasses 500 hectares, of which a mere 26 are planted to grapevines. Despite their small footprint within the larger sheep and cattle farm, those 26 hectares comprise some of the Yarra Valley (and Australia’s) most famed rows. First planted in 1967, with additions throughout the ’80s, ’90s and early 2000s, Yeringberg’s old vines speak to a history of grape-growing in the Yarra Valley that stretches back to 1838. The varieties in the ground here are a suitably classic French-inspired blend: Burgundian mainstays pinot noir and chardonnay, Rhône stalwarts shiraz, viognier, marsanne and roussanne, and the Bordeaux noble family of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. They tell not only the story of this plot of land, but also of the revival of the Yarra Valley’s dormant wine industry – rising phoenix-like from the ashes to become one of the country’s major players once again.

Bellbrae Estate, Geelong

Nestled within the gently rolling limestone hills of Geelong’s Surf Coast subregion, Bellbrae Estate is a compact seven-hectare jewel of a vineyard, growing a suitability concise mix of varieties: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier for the whites, pinot noir and shiraz for the reds. The vines here – a mere five minutes’ drive from international surfing mecca Bells Beach – were planted on their own roots in two tranches, first in 1999, with a second block following in 2015. Currently managed by Simon Steele, these vines produce wines of freshness with a mineral spine – a reflection of the brisk Southern Ocean breezes and hard limestone soils that characterise the site.

Whistling Eagle Vineyard, Heathcote

Heathcote’s Whistling Eagle Vineyard, first planted in 1995, spans 50 hectares with vines averaging 10–20 years – the oldest hitting 30. Shiraz leads a diverse pack – sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, nebbiolo, and more – across ancient red Cambrian soils. Ian ‘Bomber’ Rathjen, a fourth-generation grower, tends Whistling Eagle with son Scott, achieving low yields and big flavour via drip irrigation, straw mulch, and soft pruning on east-facing slopes. A true grower’s vineyard, its fruit lures in top winemakers, including De Bortoli, Tar & Roses, Wild Duck Creek, and Place of Changing Winds. The terroir, a result of Mount William’s fault line and gentle elevation, ripens fruit slowly via cool nights. Sustainability weaves in with native swards and over 100 flowering natives put in the ground since 2024, boosting bugs and bees.

Tahbilk – Madills ‘1927 Vines’ Marsanne, Nagambie Lakes

In the heart of Nagambie Lakes, the 1927 Marsanne block at Tahbilk stands as a rare monument to vine endurance and adaptation. Nearly a century old, and still on own roots, these vines have witnessed generations of viticultural change while continuing to yield fruit that defines one of Australia’s most iconic white wines. This is a vineyard where living legacy meets progressive environmental stewardship – a seamless blending of deep heritage and sharp-eyed sustainability. Few vineyards globally can claim vines this old still in commercial production, and fewer still do so with such a clear-eyed vision for the future.

Pizzini Wines – Whitfield Vineyard, King Valley

Nestled in Victoria’s King Valley, Pizzini Wines’ Whitfield Vineyard unfurls across 81 hectares of river flats and amphitheater hills, a 1978 planting now entering its august middle age under Joel Pizzini (Head of Production) and David Morgan (Vineyard Manager). What started as riesling on own roots – slowly wiped out by phylloxera – has morphed into mosaic of Italian varieties on rootstock: sangiovese, nebbiolo, arneis, barbera, and more. In a region of 60-plus wineries, the savory reds and crisp whites carved out by the Whitfield Vineyard’s soil diversity and mountain-buffered climate stand out. The vineyard’s tale is one of a tobacco dynasty turned wine legacy – innovation grafted onto old roots for a new story.

Fighting Gully Road Vineyard, Beechworth

Perched at 550 meters elevation in Beechworth, Fighting Gully Road spans 12 hectares, tended to by visionary vigneron Mark Walpole. This windy, low-humidity site has evolved from 1997 through to 2019 and is now planted to sangiovese, tempranillo, chardonnay, verdicchio, and grenache. Walpole’s low-input approach blends pragmatism with sustainability: cane pruning for longevity, drip irrigation as needed, and a permanent sward of clovers and grasses to boost biodiversity. Wines include Fighting Gully Road’s Sangiovese, Chardonnay, Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache, Verdicchio, Gros Manseng, and Rosé, alongside A. Rodda’s Tempranillo and Cuvée du Chais. The x-factor here lies in the vineyard’s north-east slope, with a microclimate of cooler days and warmer nights alongside a unique geology offering Walpole a brilliant canvas on which to paint his own take on Beechworth.

De Bortoli Wines – Lusatia Park Vineyard, Yarra Valley

Tucked into the red volcanic soils of the Upper Yarra, Lusatia Park is a 18.7 hectare vineyard that helped shape modern cool-climate viticulture in the region. First planted in 1985 and now stewarded by Rob Sutherland, the site is an archetype of precision farming in one of Australia’s most exciting fine-wine regions. Once a proving ground for canopy trials, today it supplies some of the country’s most respected winemakers – and remains a beacon for Yarra Valley chardonnay and pinot noir, grounded in a deep respect for soil structure, site-matched vine material and seasonal adaptability. Among the Yarra’s 80-plus wineries, famed for cool-climate poise, this site’s altitude and lean soils carve a crisp, elegant line against the valley’s lusher lowlands.

Best’s – Sugarloaf Creek Vineyard, Great Western

In the spice-driven heart of Great Western, the Sugarloaf Creek Vineyard is a 124-hectare estate under the steady hand of Ben Thomson. Planted in 1998, with recent additions in 2022 and 2023, its 26-year-old vines – grown across four soil types – yield a vibrant lineup: shiraz, cabernet, merlot, riesling, dolcetto, and chardonnay. Thomson’s approach blends tradition with high-tech agriculture, while 6,000 trees enhance waterways and biodiversity. Fruit quality drives it all – handpicked rows for premium bottlings and surplus sold to other wineries reflect the site’s pedigree. Sugarloaf Creek Vineyard balances innovation with the region’s classic character.

Yeringberg Vineyard, Yarra Valley David de Pury