McLaren Vale Archives - Young Gun of Wine

Upper Tintara Vineyard, McLaren Vale

Few vineyards in Australia have the historical resonance of the Upper Tintara Vineyard. First planted in the 1860s by Australian winemaking pioneer A. C. Kelly, and acquired by the legendary Thomas Hardy in the 1870s, Tintara grew to become a household name in England in the late 1800s, expanding to encompass 283 hectares of vineyard land and housing a workforce of 360 people. While the trials and tribulations of history have contracted that original, ‘upper’ vineyard area – to distinguish it from the later-planted, lower half of the property – to 33 hectares of productive vines, the property has not left the Hardy family’s ownership. Current custodian Andrew Hardy, with the assistance of viticulturist Stuart Miller, now oversees the vineyard, which features shiraz vines planted in 1891, cinsault and cabernet sauvignon from 1947, and later plantings of cabernet franc, sauvignon blanc, shiraz, fiano, and grenache.

Koomilya Vineyard, McLaren Vale

Planted circa 1960s, and purchased in 2012 by Fiona and Stephen Pannell, the Koomilya vineyard combines McLaren Vale’s wine heritage with a forward thinking approach to the identity of Australian wine through the lens of ‘alternative’ climate-apt varieties. The site includes two rows of mataro that are around 100 years old, as well as some old-vine shiraz and cabernet sauvignon propagated in the 1960s from McLaren Vale’s original 1840s vines. Malbec, touriga nacional, tempranillo and grenache make up the rest of the vineyard, where the average vine age is around 25 years. Large work to replace invasive plants with native trees, coupled with further regenerative agriculture, has been taken to restore the land. The 12 hectares under vine are nestled amongst two native scrublands – preserving the endangered Grey Box Grassy Woodlands – and creek lines which define the unique setting of this 35 hectare property.

Paxton Wines – Thomas Block Vineyard, McLaren Vale

The Thomas Block is the jewel in the crown for Paxton Wines, who have around half a dozen vineyards throughout McLaren Vale. The first vineyard purchased by David Paxton in 1978, this 26-hectare certified biodynamic vineyard boasts a treasure of old vine shiraz planted in 1887 – the oldest shiraz vines in McLaren Vale. Further plantings since 1979 give it a grape variety mix that also includes grenache, chardonnay, pinot gris, cabernet, graciano, mataro, tempranillo and fiano, going into Paxton Wines. The flagship Paxton wine, the EJ Shiraz, named after David Paxton’s mother and family matriarch Elizabeth Jean, comes exclusively from the Thomas Block.

Yangarra – High Sands Vineyard, McLaren Vale

The beating heart of the lauded Yangarra Estate Vineyard is the collection of bush vine grenache that was planted a year after the cessation of hostilities in World War II. That vineyard accounts for over a quarter of the old vine grenache in McLaren Vale. It’s not that long ago that this might have been seen as a liability, but with the grape’s star truly on the rise, it represents one of the most precious resources in the Vale. And that growing consumer appreciation for the grape has been heavily influenced by the wines made by Pete Fraser from fruit farmed by Michael Lane, with over a decade and a half of biodynamic management and deep focus on regenerative agriculture and sustainability. The High Sands Vineyard is a 1.7-hectare section on deep sands at the highest elevation, which produces exceptional and distinct fruit that goes to make Yangarra’s flagship ‘High Sands’ bottling.

Paeroa Vineyard, McLaren Vale

Matthew Brown’s Paeroa Vineyard supplies fruit for his range of Dr Plonk and Fu Manchu wines as well as other makers with varieties both traditional and emerging. Tannat and montepulciano have joined stalwart red varieties, and have proven to thrive in the Mediterranean climate of McLaren Vale. His approach is built around organic practices and a regenerative mindset, with input from Richard Leask as a consultant viticulturist. The sustainable practices extend from increasing soil health and organic matter to reducing fossil fuel usage through solar power and reduced tractor passes, while weeds are removed and grasses kept down through both sheep grazing and manual slashing and cultivation. Brown has also taken the supply of grapes to small makers a step further by making winery space available to pursue their own interpretation of Paeroa fruit, which he grows to their individual specifications.

MMAD Vineyard

The MMAD vineyard is a side project for the team behind Shaw + Smith and Tolpuddle, though it’s a significant side project at that, with nearly 20 hectares of vines in the Maslin sands of McLaren Vale’s Blewitt Springs and vines dating back to the 1930s. It’s a site that’s already seen a trio of celebrated premium releases – chenin blanc, grenache and shiraz – from the 2021 vintage, the same year the vineyard was acquired. And while the MMAD label has been swiftly accepted as though it has been around for a decade, vineyard manager Ben Jonas is taking a long-term view on continually enhancing the health of those heritage vines and planning for an even brighter future through a sustainable approach with organic certification on the horizon.

Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard

Viticulturist Michael Lane is perhaps best known for his work at McLaren Vale’s Yangarra Vineyard, but he is having an equally important impact on the 67 hectares of vines in the Hickinbotham Vineyard, which sits in the Vale’s Clarendon subzone. That vineyard was first planted by Alan David Hickinbotham over 50 years ago, and has been a significant source of high-quality fruit to iconic wineries—although it was not until California’s Jackson Family bought the site that estate wines were released just over a decade ago. Those wines all sit in the premium category, from a shiraz though three blends based on traditional Bordeaux varieties and a flagship wine, ‘The Peake’, an homage to the Australian blend of cabernet and shiraz. The vineyard is organic, biodynamic, and Sustainable Winegrowing Australia certified.

Orbis Vineyard, McLaren Vale

The Orbis wine label was founded by Brad Moyes and Kendall Grey in 2018 when they purchased an established vineyard in McLaren Vale. The Orbis name references the idea of a self-sufficient system, and the pair anchor everything they do in sustainability, from farming to bottling. Mowing between the rows is largely performed by a flock of babydoll sheep that have been given permanent residence between the vines, with chickens and ducks to join them once a fox-proof fence trial is completed. The fruit goes to the Orbis wines made by Verity and Jamie Cowley at the onsite winery, from a pétillant rosé and a piquette to trousseau and an old vine shiraz, with a pair of rosés and a few Mediterranean varietal wines and non-traditional blends filling out the roster. Contract grapes are also sold to make premium products for Ministry of Clouds and Samson Tall, alongside more established brands such as Penfolds and Wirra Wirra. The vineyard is managed regeneratively by Verity Cowley and owner Brad Moyes, with viticultural guidance by GT Growers, and the aim to achieve organic and biodynamic certification within the next three years.

Upper Tintara Vineyard, McLaren Vale Andrew Hardy and Stuart Miller