Margaret River Archives - Young Gun of Wine

Lirica – Hutton Vineyard, Margaret River

At just 0.85 hectares, Lirica – Hutton Vineyard is one of the smallest vineyards in this country to produce its own wine. Planted in 1976 in the Wilyabrup subregion of Margaret River – the heartland of Australian cabernet sauvignon – it carries 49-year-old vines on their own roots, dry-farmed, in gravel loam over clay, on a mid-slope east-facing site that captures morning light and sidesteps the heat of the afternoon. Since 2017, the vineyard has been leased and managed by Lee Haselgrove, one of Australia’s most respected viticulturists, who helped Swinney Vineyards claim the inaugural YGOW Vineyard of the Year in 2020. Here, working on a scale where every vine is a decision, Haselgrove is building toward a single wine – Lirica – that he believes can make a meaningful contribution to the conversation around fine cabernet sauvignon.

Kaloorup Cottage Vineyard

The story of Kaloorup Cottage might initially seem like a quaint sea-change narrative built for television: a young couple purchase an old cottage and attendant run-down vineyard in one of Margaret River’s hamlets, then have a crack at restoring both to their former glory. But a closer inspection of Kaloorup Cottage’s viticulture will tell you that the real story here is a remarkable case study in regenerative agriculture, information transparency, and the tireless efforts of viticulturist Georgina Harrison to build a truly sustainable agricultural system on her patch of land. Starting with a base of just over two hectares of own-rooted cabernet sauvignon, Harrison has removed unproductive rows, grafted over half of the remaining area to chardonnay, nebbiolo and tempranillo, and focused intently on restoring soil health and natural balance in the vineyard ecosystem – a strong opening gambit that is already paying dividends.

Cape Mentelle – Chapman Brook Vineyard, Margaret River

Chapman Brook Vineyard is Cape Mentelle’s white wine engine room – a 49.54-hectare property in the southern half of the Margaret River appellation, around 16 kilometres inland from the Indian Ocean, producing the fruit behind a range of wines – chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, semillon and shiraz – spanning from the Cape Mentelle Sauvignon Blanc Semillon ($30) through to the Heritage Chardonnay ($105). First planted in 1993 and managed within the Cape Mentelle portfolio ever since, the site sits on an undulating landscape of sandy loam soils with pockets of ironstone, through which the Chapman Brook – its namesake – runs. Surrounded by native bushland and farmland, the vineyard benefits from a diurnal temperature range of 13 to 20 degrees through summer, that cool overnight reprieve preserving acidity and allowing fruit to reach full phenological ripeness without sacrificing freshness. At its helm is Annabel Angland, a viticulturist combining rigorous data-driven site management with a clear commitment to expressing what Chapman Brook, specifically, is capable of producing.

Windows Estate, Margaret River

Tucked into the cool coastal pocket of Yallingup on the northern edge of Margaret River, Windows Estate is a certified-organic standout shaped by Chris Davies, who planted his first vines at age 19. Spanning nine hectares out of a 47-hectare farm, this vineyard – planted in tranches from 1996 to 2014 – thrives on three distinct soil types: karri loam, fractured laterite, and granite-clay blends. Chris treats the farm as one living ecosystem, with no irrigation, minimal inputs, and a hands-on ethos –manual whipper-snipping and Guyot–Poussard pruning keep it personal. Over 50% of the land remains a conservation zone, buzzing with biodiversity, while the rest yields a tight lineup: both sparkling and still chenin blanc, chardonnay, semillon, syrah, and ‘Violette’ (a Bordeaux blend), with varietal petit verdot and malbec in select years. Each block is vinified separately, letting the site’s terroir shine through in every bottle. Proximity to the wild rhythm of the ocean and a towering ridgeline create a microclimate that tempers the heat, coaxing out vibrant acidity and layered flavors that speak directly of this unique patch of earth.

Marri Wood Park Vineyard, Margaret River

Nestled in Yallingup at the northern tip of Margaret River, Marri Wood Park Vineyard consists of 6.5 hectares of 30-year-old vines – a rugged standout in a region famous for its manicured wines. Certified biodynamic since 2008 (Demeter), vineyard management here is less about cosmic rituals and more about vigneron Julian Wright letting nature run the show – forgoing irrigation, fertilizers, and cover crops to mimic the wild bush that dominates the rest of his 40-hectare farm. Chenin, cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc, and semillon grow here, fed only by rain, leaf litter, and animal droppings rather than any inputs from the conventional growers’ playbook. In a region of over 200 wineries where fewer than 10 hold certified biodynamic status, Marri Wood Park stands as a rare throwback to an unplugged style of farming.

Higher Plane Vineyard, Margaret River

Tucked at the southern end of Margaret River in Karridale, Higher Plane Vineyard sprawls across 15.9 hectares of gravelly loam. Its vines – planted between 1997 and 2018 – average 18 years of age, and are tended to by head growers Ianto Ward and Dan Stocker. Chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, fiano, tempranillo, shiraz and more thrive here, with the fruit going on to make Higher Plane Shiraz and the single-site Juniper Cornerstone Karridale Chardonnay – a standout wine in a region of 215 wineries known for their bold cabernets and plush chardonnays. While the northern Margaret River basks in the sun, this cooler southern pocket requires grit to farm regeneratively, with the wines shaped by the influence of two oceans meeting and a hands-on push for balance.

467 Twenty Four Road, Margaret River

Claudia Gant has evolved the 467 Twenty Four Road vineyard – established by her father Graham Lloyd in 1998 – with a rich tapestry of varieties, from Margaret River’s renowned chardonnay and cabernet sauvignon to the less traditional, such as arneis, alvarinho, and touriga nacional. Tucked away in the southern reaches of Margaret River, the cool climes of Karridale, shadowed by the influence of the Southern Ocean, offer a unique microclimate. Combined with Claudia’s vineyard architecture, this delivers grapes of high natural acidity, providing a suite of options for a natural approach in the winery. Here, the fruits of Claudia and Matt Gant’s labor not only fuel their own ‘Gant & Co’ label but also five other local wineries, Domaine Naturaliste, Howard Park, Flametree, Byron and Harold, and Skigh Wine.

Voyager Estate – V9Y Vineyard

First planted in the late 1970s, Voyager Estate is one of Margaret River’s oldest vineyards. Located in the Stevens Valley in the subregion of Wallcliffe, the vineyard now occupies over 100 hectares, but it is a recently planted 1.2-hectare block of cabernet sauvignon that is causing considerable excitement amongst the team. That section, called V9Y, was propagated from the original vines and is one day destined for the flagship cabernet, or perhaps a solo bottling. As with the whole estate, the vineyard is certified organic and managed by Glen Ryan, who has worked at Voyager for over two decades.

Lirica – Hutton Vineyard, Margaret River Lee Haselgrove