Adelaide Hills Archives - Young Gun of Wine

Sawyer Wines – Peacock Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

Peacock Vineyard is a 10-acre (approximately 4 hectare) property at Oakbank in the Adelaide Hills, growing chardonnay, pinot meunier, sauvignon blanc and nebbiolo on clay soils over rock. Managed by Michael Sawyer – a winemaker with more than 20 years of experience across the Rhône Valley, the Willamette Valley, McLaren Vale and the Riverland – and his partner Zoe, the vineyard has been progressively transitioned toward regenerative farming principles since the couple founded Sawyer Wine Co. in 2018. The fruit feeds their own small-batch label – Sawyer Chardonnay, Sawyer Pinot Meunier, Sawyer Rosé and Sawyer Fumé Blanc – as well as a growing number of respected local producers who seek it out for its quality and, particularly, for its pinot meunier: one of the few vineyards in Australia where approximately half the meunier crop is picked specifically to make a still red wine.

Commune of Buttons – Fernglen Vineyard, Piccadilly Valley

Jasper Button’s journey is, in many ways, an archetype for many others who were formerly lumped into the category of ‘natural winemakers’. That cultural moment arrived in the early 2010s, generated a lot of buzz online – not to mention sometimes harsh criticism from the vinous establishment – and turned a generation of young Australians on to the delights of wine. But what happens after the both hype and the hatred dissipates? For Jasper and his sister Sophie, what’s next is about going back to basics – and the current incarnation of the Commune of Buttons project is all about celebrating the birthplace of the project, Fernglen. Here Jasper tends to four hectares of pinot noir, chardonnay, gamay, chenin blanc, nebbiolo, and cabernet franc, nestled amongst twenty-eight hectares of rolling hills and bushland in the Piccadilly Valley sub-region of the Adelaide Hills.

Turon Lenswood Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

Cresting at 510 meters above sea level in South Australia’s Lenswood subregion, Turon Lenswood Vineyard squeezes 1.52 hectares of high-density vines – 0.75ha pinot noir, 0.77ha chardonnay – into a gem of a vineyard on ancient clay and shale soils, planted in 2020 under Turon White’s vision. These ultra-dense plantings – 5,556 vines/ha – yield the fruit for Turon’s estate pinot noir, with an estate chardonnay looming. In a region of 90-plus wineries famed for crisp cool-climate drops, this steep, east-facing sliver of vines – 5 years young – chases vibrancy over volume, sidestepping Piccadilly’s plushness or Lobethal’s heft. It’s a first-generation winemaker’s dream – built from scratch.

Shaw & Smith – Balhannah Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

Shaw & Smith’s Balhannah Vineyard, planted from 2002 to 2021 in the Adelaide Hills, stretches across 35 hectares, with vines averaging 12 years of age (the oldest at 22). Shiraz, sauvignon blanc, gamay, and riesling thrive here at 340–380 metres above sea level, organically managed by Murray Leake since 2021. Vines span north-south rows, dry-grown for shiraz, grazed by sheep in winter, and mulched with minimal tillage to nurture sandy loam over ironstone-rich clay. Leake’s team crafts complex, finely textured shiraz and crisp sauvignon blanc, reflecting the warmth of Balhannah’s pocket within the Onkaparinga Valley. The terroir, laced with quartz and ironstone, drives structured tannins and while detailed vineyard work – compost teas, strategic leaf-plucking, and clonal renewal – delivers vibrant fruit, marrying site precision with ecological balance on a scale few can match. It’s a site that speaks clearly of place, but just as loudly of intent – of a philosophy that puts soil health, vine balance and vineyard expression at the centre of the winemaking conversation.

Berrigan – Shining Rock Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

At 400 meters above sea level in Nairne, Adelaide Hills, the Shining Rock Vineyard spans 15.1 hectares of rocky mica-schist. Its vines – planted from 1999 to 2023 –average 18 years of age, and have found new life under viticulturalist Dan Berrigan. Shiraz, sangiovese, grüner veltliner, viognier, and chardonnay thrive here, fuelling the wines of Berrigan’s eponymous label, in addition to supplying fruit for other producers such as Chain of Ponds, d’Arenberg, and La Prova. In a region of 90-plus wineries known for their cool-climate zip, this bowl-shaped site – dryer than its neighbours – delivers concentrated reds and taut whites.

Ashton Hills, Adelaide Hills

Founded in 1982 by Stephen George, Ashton Hills is a beacon of viticultural excellence nestled within the officially recognized Piccadilly Valley subregion of the Adelaide Hills. Under the stewardship of Wirra Wirra Vineyards, with the viticultural expertise of Anton Groffen and vineyard management by Jose Neves, Ashton Hills passionately focuses on a meticulously curated selection of pinot noir clones. This 3-hectare estate, lauded for its high-altitude positioning, crafts wines that embody the essence of the Piccadilly Valley’s cool climate. The offerings, including Ashton Hills Reserve, Ashton Hills Estate, and Ashton Hills Riesling, are distinguished by their precision, elegance, and a vivid expression of terroir. Ashton Hills underscores its significance through a relentless pursuit of clonal perfection, a minimal intervention philosophy, and a deep respect for the unique cool climate conditions of its subregion, solidifying its place as a cornerstone of Australian cool climate viticulture.

Vinteloper Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

Originally working only with sourced fruit, David Bowley’s Vinteloper found a home vineyard in the Adelaide Hills only for it to be savaged by fire in 2019. Restoring those lost vines is a demanding project, but it goes hand in hand with his process of regenerative agriculture of both vineyard and non-vineyard land. Extensive planting of native flora, a considered water management strategy and solar power for all electricity needs are all part of Bowley’s approach that is tilted to sustainability on both a local and larger scale, while constantly pushing for quality gains. The site is responsible for the ‘Home’ Shiraz and a pinot noir, shiraz and pinot gris in the Vinteloper ‘White Label’ range.

Longview Vineyard, Adelaide Hills

The Longview Vineyard in Macclesfield is somewhat of an Adelaide Hills pioneer. Although it was planted in the late ’90s, a little later than the region’s early adopters, nebbiolo was notably planted alongside a brace of more traditional varieties. That was followed with barbera and Austria’s most important grape, grüner veltliner. Those varieties have proven to be well suited to the region, with Longview making leading examples under their own label, while they have also been a source of contract fruit for many other makers. That has proven to be a significant resource for those not blessed with their own vineyards, while it has also advanced the case for those varieties amongst vignerons and drinkers alike. With ten varieties planted, Longview deviates from tradition in the Adelaide Hills. With 8 hectares of nebbiolo alone, including seven different clones, the vineyard has become one of the most significant sites for this variety in Australia. Longview is also somewhat of a Hills tourist destination, with a day spa and accommodation joining the cellar door. Christopher Mein is the vineyard manager, who is constantly evolving his methods to improve vine and soil health with a focus on biodiversity and sustainability.

Sawyer Wines – Peacock Vineyard, Adelaide Hills Michael Sawyer