Yeringberg Vineyard, Yarra Valley David de Pury

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  • Yeringberg Vineyard, Yarra Valley

    Located along the ‘Golden Mile’ of the Coldstream subregion of the Yarra Valley, the Yeringberg farm encompasses 500 hectares, of which a mere 26 are planted to grapevines. Despite their small footprint within the larger sheep and cattle farm, those 26 hectares comprise some of the Yarra Valley (and Australia’s) most famed rows. First planted in 1967, with additions throughout the ’80s, ’90s and early 2000s, Yeringberg’s old vines speak to a history of grape-growing in the Yarra Valley that stretches back to 1838. The varieties in the ground here are a suitably classic French-inspired blend: Burgundian mainstays pinot noir and chardonnay, Rhîne stalwarts shiraz, viognier, marsanne and roussanne, and the Bordeaux noble family of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot. They tell not only the story of this plot of land, but also of the revival of the Yarra Valley’s dormant wine industry – rising phoenix-like from the ashes to become one of the country’s major players once again.

  • Sailor Seeks Horse Vineyard, Huon Valley, Tasmania

    Tucked into into a steep, sandy slope at Cradoc in Tasmania’s cool Huon Valley, Sailor Seeks Horse spans eight hectares planted in 2005–2018 on sandstone-derived Permian mudstone. This steep, nutrient-lean site – just warm enough to ripen pinot noir, chardonnay, trousseau, and chenin blanc – relies on dry farming for deep roots and expressive fruit, though arid summers prompt undervine mulching. Wines include three cuvees of pinot noir as well as chardonnay, with trousseau and chenin blanc still maturing. The wines have lightness of touch with an underlying power, with a salinity born of sandy quartz-like soils and and layered complexity thanks to the varied terrain. Cared for by Paul and Gilli Lipscombe, Sailor Seeks Horse is a testament to patience and place.

  • Bellbrae Estate, Geelong

    Nestled within the gently rolling limestone hills of Geelong’s Surf Coast subregion, Bellbrae Estate is a compact seven-hectare jewel of a vineyard, growing a suitability concise mix of varieties: chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and viognier for the whites, pinot noir and shiraz for the reds. The vines here – a mere five minutes’ drive from international surfing mecca Bells Beach – were planted on their own roots in two tranches, first in 1999, with a second block following in 2015. Currently managed by Simon Steele, these vines produce wines of freshness with a mineral spine – a reflection of the brisk Southern Ocean breezes and hard limestone soils that characterise the site.

  • Yarrabee Vineyard, Frankland River

    Nestled in Frankland River at 250 meters elevation, Yarrabee spans 72 hectares under the care of Tim Penniment of Alkoomi. Planted on gravelly loams in 1997, with recent additions in 2019 and 2023, all on own roots, the site’s large diurnal swings, and dry, rain-shadowed climate shape chardonnay, riesling, semillon, sauvignon blanc, pinot gris, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, shiraz, merlot, and grenache. Penniment’s approach prioritizes soil health, with winery-waste compost, cover crops, and sheep grazing boosting organic carbon and cutting water needs. Wines from here include Three Elms’ Mt Frankland Shiraz, Byron & Harold’s ‘The Partners’ trio, and a suite of releases from Alkoomi and Lange Estate. Yarrabee stands out in Australia’s wine scene for transforming a former commercial site into a premium fruit source via meticulous soil revival and community ties.

  • ​Whistling Eagle Vineyard, Heathcote

    Heathcote’s Whistling Eagle Vineyard, first planted in 1995, spans 50 hectares with vines averaging 10–20 years – the oldest hitting 30. Shiraz leads a diverse pack – sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, nebbiolo, and more – across ancient red Cambrian soils. Ian ‘Bomber’ Rathjen, a fourth-generation grower, tends Whistling Eagle with son Scott, achieving low yields and big flavour via drip irrigation, straw mulch, and soft pruning on east-facing slopes. A true grower’s vineyard, its fruit lures in top winemakers, including De Bortoli, Tar & Roses, Wild Duck Creek, and Place of Changing Winds. The terroir, a result of Mount William’s fault line and gentle elevation, ripens fruit slowly via cool nights. Sustainability weaves in with native swards and over 100 flowering natives put in the ground since 2024, boosting bugs and bees.

  • Windows Estate, Margaret River

    Tucked into the cool coastal pocket of Yallingup on the northern edge of Margaret River, Windows Estate is a certified-organic standout shaped by Chris Davies, who planted his first vines at age 19. Spanning nine hectares out of a 47-hectare farm, this vineyard – planted in tranches from 1996 to 2014 – thrives on three distinct soil types: karri loam, fractured laterite, and granite-clay blends. Chris treats the farm as one living ecosystem, with no irrigation, minimal inputs, and a hands-on ethos –manual whipper-snipping and Guyot–Poussard pruning keep it personal. Over 50% of the land remains a conservation zone, buzzing with biodiversity, while the rest yields a tight lineup: both sparkling and still chenin blanc, chardonnay, semillon, syrah, and ‘Violette’ (a Bordeaux blend), with varietal petit verdot and malbec in select years. Each block is vinified separately, letting the site’s terroir shine through in every bottle. Proximity to the wild rhythm of the ocean and a towering ridgeline create a microclimate that tempers the heat, coaxing out vibrant acidity and layered flavors that speak directly of this unique patch of earth.

  • Utzinger Vineyard, Tamar Valley, Tasmania

    Nestled in Tasmania’s Tamar Valley, the Utzinger Vineyard spans 5 hectares under the care of Matthias Utzinger, planted in 2018 on virgin brown dermosols rich with ironstone gravel. This north-easterly slope, cooled by winds off kanamaluka/the Tamar River, offers a prolonged ripening season that shapes its pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, and syrah. Certified organic since its inception, the vineyard employs high-density planting at 6,500 vines per hectare, with 20% of the land dedicated to revegetation for biodiversity. Matthias crafts the wines from this site himself. This young vineyard, blending Utzinger’s Swiss heritage with Tasmanian terroir, shows how small-scale, intentional viticulture can make an immediate impact.

  • Tyrrell’s – Short Flat Vineyard, Hunter Valley

    Short Flat Vineyard is as close as Australia has to a Grand Cru equivalent – a family-owned, dry-grown site with vines dating to 1923, producing wines that have helped define Hunter Valley semillon, shiraz and chardonnay across decades. Spanning 12.51 hectares of sandy loam and red clay at 110 metres above sea level, the vineyard underpins Tyrrell’s most iconic bottlings: Vat 1 Semillon ($115), Vat 9 Shiraz ($115), Vat 47 Chardonnay ($110), the Short Flat Old Vine Chardonnay ($90) and the shiraz component of Vat 8 Shiraz Cabernet ($110). All vines are on their own roots. Viticulturist Brent Hutton manages the site with the particular attentiveness that old vines demand – close observation, incremental change, nothing blanket – while bringing a quietly restless willingness to challenge how such sites have traditionally been managed.

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Tyrrell’s – Short Flat Vineyard, Hunter Valley

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